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Topic ClosedUnderskinning a Pontoon Boat

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CajunDiver View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/09/2010 at 10:25pm
.30in would be pretty heavy in my opinion. Thats over 1/4 in thick?? 30 gauge or .030 inch now thats a different story. I used some 26 gauge "R" panel standing seam roofing under mine and it has done well.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/09/2010 at 10:49pm
Yeah because I was thinking he meant .030 of an inch but because of his description of it, it sounded thin so that"s what I based it on.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/16/2010 at 1:36pm
Anyone know the approximate width between the toons on a 20 Fter? My toon is along way off in storage and would like to price out the aluminum. Thanks
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/16/2010 at 4:06pm
I think every toon will be slightly different. On thing that would make a big difference is if you have round toons or "U" shaped toons.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/02/2011 at 12:51am
underskinning will be my spring project this year.  I can't believe how much those ribs grab the water when at cruise.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/02/2011 at 12:18pm
Is the underskinning installed mainly between the 2 pontoons? (center of boat) I would think it would be pretty tough to work it over the top of the toons, and to the outer edges with wires and supports.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/02/2011 at 1:26pm

Randy, who was mentioning installing over the top of their toons? 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/25/2011 at 9:44pm
Under-skinning is the NEXT step in the remodeling of my pontoon once the new engine is installed. I've got 5 sheets of .053 6061 4X8 just waiting on ME to do something with them. Then finish up the privacy room for the porti-potti & it's off to the lake for the weekend. That is "IF" I can afford to buy the LIQUID GOLD it takes to run the motor  Angry At the rate its going now its gonna take $100.00 to buy 24 gallons of fuel. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/28/2011 at 8:09pm
When overlapping the sheets of aluminum is it necessary to put a good marine sealer between each sheet before fastening the sheets together on the cross members or down the sides of each sheet before fastening it?  
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/28/2011 at 8:19pm
No, because if you work your way from the rear to the front, the sheet in front prevents it from collecting water, and IF water does get in, you want it out. Think about from the top, where is it going?? Not all of it will evaporate, but will drain down to below.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/28/2011 at 8:29pm
Thanks WCD. I didn't think it was needed but wanted to make sure. I'm hoping to get started on that this weekend. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/28/2011 at 9:52pm
I was able to get enough .063 sheets at a local metal recycler to do 24' for $120  They took 4' X 12' sheets and cut to my length and I put the 4' side front to back and the longer side across.  The aluminum had a few scratches, but the price was right.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/28/2011 at 10:00pm
   Yeah I wouldn't seal the sheets either. It's not a bad idea to leave a way for the water get back out.  Not to get off topic here but just reading your post from 2/25 and your predictions of what it will cost to fill the boat up is a sad reality now. It makes me sick to think about feeding a carburated 115 this summer Cry Ok back to underskinning now. I hope to get to this project eventually but I have way too much wiring to do before I jump into it. I am taking notes on how everyone tackels this for sure !!!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/28/2011 at 10:21pm
Originally posted by rbtnt rbtnt wrote:

I was able to get enough .063 sheets at a local metal recycler to do 24' for $120  They took 4' X 12' sheets and cut to my length and I put the 4' side front to back and the longer side across.  The aluminum had a few scratches, but the price was right.
 
I'd sure say the price was right. Good deal..Thumbs Up
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/28/2011 at 10:38pm
Very good, mine was $140 for 2 sheets of 4x10ft of 5062 and I thought that was very good compared to some pricing me $400 or more. Bucket of rubber sealed self drilling SS screws was I think $35 for 250 screws. I had enough left over to last me a LONG time, even another reskinning job.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/29/2011 at 7:50am
Guys...

Are aluminum rivets a bad idea for the underskin?  I figure if i put enough of them in at a tight spacing it'll be pretty OK.

Thoughts???
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/29/2011 at 8:10am
Ummm, I think that would be too much flexing and stress for rivits. Plus you want to be able to take the sections off if you had to do any kind of maintenance (wiring, bilge, replacement cables, etc). I went with the Self Tapping Screw with EPDM Washer like this.
 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/29/2011 at 8:21am
WCD - special order or can i pick some up at lowes on my way home.  was really hoping to get 'er done tonight.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/29/2011 at 8:35am
Those screws should be available at the big box outlet home improvement places. Also see if you have a local Fastenal store. They would have them as well or any store that carries metal roofing materials.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/29/2011 at 8:40am
Thx - just found fastenal right down the road!  didn't even know it was there...

Will pick'em up on the way home!

Thx guys.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/05/2011 at 8:21pm

Oh if its a rust thing, NO WAY you want that attached as you'd end up with a HUGE mess in no time. Stick with 5062 aluminum.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/05/2011 at 9:51pm
I used painted metal soffit panels under mine with no issues in FRESH water. Most of those panels have a Kynar finish which is better than most metal you would spray paint, etc. I'm not so sure in salt water but in fresh you should get the life of your carpet out of it anyways if not more. Its used on roofs which get plenty of splashing with a long life span. I doubt the average toon would see any more water splashed on it,cycle wise, as a metal building in Louisiana.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/22/2011 at 8:11am
My logs are 49" apart side to side & the cross members are 24" center to center apart from bow to stern. My question is do I need to add any supports in between the the cross members to give the under skinning more support since they are 24" apart? I'm using .053 5052 aluminum & am concerned about "flexing" in between the cross members.

The pontoon had 2X4s cut to fit in between the cross members spaced 24" apart between the logs when I started the rebuild which I removed since they were "treated" lumber. I believe they were added at some point of ownership but not really sure. My thinking is they were added to prevent any sag in the plywood deck between the cross members but who really knows. Either way I can add some aluminum supports to replace them if needed or just add some cross members.  Since I have no way of knowing the amount of force that will be placed on the under skinning I sure don't want it to buckle in between the 24" spaced cross members. Any advice would be appreciated.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/22/2011 at 12:12pm
Nope Les. Mine are also spaced 24" and it's no problem.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/22/2011 at 3:12pm
Thanks Rick. Good deal. That's exactly what I needed to hear.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/10/2011 at 11:16am
It actually quiets it down a LOT, but read through the whole thread as it tells you everything Wink
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/16/2011 at 5:13pm
Ok, fellows, you have convinced me to try this underskinning thing.
 
I have two 4 ft x 10 ft sheets of #5052, .063 ordered, to be here friday, but have not found screws yet.
 
Rick and Charles, have you had any problems with the screws backing out, and what kind of spacing did you uses between them, and what size screws?
 
Did you use any foam or cauking between the aluminum underskin and the cross members?
 
My cross members are 24 inch on center, 57 inches between the toons.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/16/2011 at 6:49pm
Well lets see if I can answer some of that. No problem at all with screws backing out but I did use permatex (blue) anti seize.  I used 6 inch spacing between screws or roughly 5 per edge/support which was plenty. No nothing between cross members and skin. Are you sure about the 57 inches between the toons? Are you measuring from the center point of the toons as I only had roughly 51/52 on mine (U shaped logs).
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/17/2011 at 6:53am
Did you use SS self tapping screws Charles? I'm getting ready to install my under skinning this weekend & going to pick up the screws later today from Fastenal. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/17/2011 at 9:02am
Read back further in this thread, your question will be answered Wink in fact further up this same page
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