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2000 32' Suntracker Party Cruiser wall replacement

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Manaya1127 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Manaya1127 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 2000 32' Suntracker Party Cruiser wall replacement
    Posted: 12/15/2020 at 4:04pm
Hi, My name is Manny and I just bought a 2000 Suntracker Party cruiser 32 and my wall on the exterior are like coming off,like peeling off sounds better not to bad. What do you know about that year? So what you guys are saying if I start removing walls the roof might cave In and drop on my head or are the walls the only thing holding the roof? This pontoon is in pretty good shape for the years. It has a 3.0 chevy engine 135 hp and I'm needing to replace parts like the fume hose is missing and that's important things like that. any help I can get I will greatly appreciate it, or call me at 505 470-0241
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Razorback Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/11/2019 at 3:26am
The wall idea looks good!  I'm interested in how much it will cost.  I'm also looking into wall replacement ideas.  Question:  Is the foam closed cell?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gerard143 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/18/2019 at 3:11pm
things are going ok on my end.   I should have it at least useable again in a couple weeks.   

Still have a lot I'd like to do after that though.     It's been a project thats for sure, but its coming out awesome. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dpeavey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/17/2019 at 9:21am
I'll post photos of before and after later on today.

We did remove the outside cabinetry near the front slider door.

It was all plywood and held moisture against the floor... not good for the longevity of the cabinet or the floor material.

I was looking at purchasing the same boat in a different configuration...
inside control cockpit, less inside floor space, extended rear deck space, and an aluminum deck Ofer plywood...

I really liked the aluminum deck idea a lot, but that boat didn't have the available usable inside square footage of the plywood deck, and ... it was $12,500 (it was a 2000 model year too)

I opted for the expanded interior space and the exterior control cockpit as the weather here is touch and go, definitely not Arizona weather in New New York State!

Although I like the interior cockpit due to keeping the electrical and other components dry... it does use valuable interior space. Believe it or not I'm much more into being indoors and away from the suns damaging effects as I get older. ☺️

I may draw up a few floor layouts that I have seen and post them here. I'm thinking there were quite a few options available. I have another 32 on the same lake as I am on, and it has only 2 exterior wall panels, one for the kitchen backer area and one for the bathroom. They each may have 2 wall panels set in an "L configuration for support and such. However most of that cruiser is canvas, sans the top which is a full top like my 32.
Don
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dpeavey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/17/2019 at 8:54am
Drummer...

I am curious too about the material you have in your hand in the photo.

If it's a composite material ( Black plastic with a UV protected white finish) it does look like it could be structural enough for most rebuilds. I think the key is UV protected. Most material that you buy at home depot won't protect the materials from The sun, and in a boat there is gobs of that around.

FRP is only good on interior surfaces... it will degrade fairly quickly in sunlight.

The material I have looked at and are posted here and that's what I'm leaning toward. Honeycomb core and gelcoat finished both sides. I'm just wondering what water infiltration might do to the honeycomb material should it get in... and it will take a full wrap of an aluminum extrusion or other material to overlap the vertical to roof cap transition to keep the water away from gaining access to the core.

When I redid the roof with rubber I left 6" hanging down around the edges all the way around the top. Them I set the 3" or so deep aluminum roof cap on that . I haven't reattached the cap yet. But what I do do (which I am now really kicking myself for, is cutting the rubber that was hanging down even with the bottom of the roof cap!!! Were I to have   left it hang, that would have been my roof to wall weathertight seal.
Don
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dpeavey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/17/2019 at 8:26am
Gerard... haw are you making out?

I purchased a 1995 suntracker PC 32 last fall for $5000 with an extremely bad roof, unknown motor condition, no canvas, and pitted pontoons. The boat had been in salt water for an extended time with barnacle wear and tear, but the bottoms of the toons appear to have been sealed with an epoxy coating which does add life.

The boat has a plywood deck that appears structurally sound. .

The aluminum all over has salt water deterioration that is only aesthetic and not structurally impaired.

The boat was cleaned of moss and muddy carpets, the interior was totally cleaned and the same for the head area and the aft deck. I installed a new white rubber roof in comparison to the PVC material. And glued it down to the existing 3/4 plywood roof deck. After that most of the interior was weatherproof except for the transition of the upper wall aluminum track to vertical wall aluminum support/joiner "T" extrusions.

Those areas leaked as there is no clear weather seal at this juncture other than possibly some internal caulk or foam tape applied before the wall panels were set in at the factory.

With that ($600) and $2000 in repairs to the 1995 115hp Merc motor (-repowered in 2000 by the factory), and replacing the stator and controller plus misc, electrical, a new starter, 2 batteries, a new battery switch, some electrical wiring repairs to the electrical system we put the boat in the water in late August.

We had a blast for about 45 days on this boat!

We pulled it out 7 days before the lake froze over for the winter.

Don
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bnelson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/12/2019 at 3:24am
Curious to how the numbers came back?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Drummer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/10/2019 at 3:29pm
I just found this website: HouseBoatParts.net. I don't have a quote yet, but they will be quoting panels for my Party Hut in the material pictured here:

I'm hoping for reasonable pricing. I will let you know. Maybe if there is enough interest we can help them get the cost down. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GSolo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/27/2019 at 9:55pm
Fiber-Tech Industries, Inc., based in Washington Courthouse, OH, is selling Sun Tracker cabin wall replacement panels.  Stock panels are .98"(+/-) x 48" x 94".  Polypropylene honeycomb core, fiberglass skins, glossy white gel coat both sides.  Please contact gsolomon@fiber-tech.net for more information.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dpeavey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/07/2018 at 2:11pm
There's a company ...fast forward fiberglass repair that replaced several panels on a 2005 32ft suntracker that's docked in Sylvan Beach... they may have some more information on what may be available from suntracker for these boats as original replacement panels.

Those panels were replaced due to heat damage from another boat that caught on fire there...
Don
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dpeavey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/07/2018 at 2:07pm
Wow... do you have one of these boats?

I just saw another one online for sale ... same condition as mine but with a few add one... $20,000

Don
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gerard143 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gerard143 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/07/2018 at 11:50am
Same here. Just outside Syracuse by weedsport.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dpeavey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/07/2018 at 10:02am
I have personally seen 3 of these boats in New York...

1 1994 at Oneida Lake Syracuse NY 16' roof deck enclosed cabin Plywood Base $8,500
1 1995 at Sacandaga Lake Albany NY 14' roof deck enclosed cabin Aluminum base $12,500
1 1994 (?) at Sacandage Lake Albany NY 10' roof deck with open cabin walls Plywood Base $15,000(?)

All of these boats were in a relative poor state and needed repairs like Roof material and side walls, the standard items typically needing replacement in these boats. 

I think its just a matter of time before the thread starts in earnest again! Smile
Don
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dpeavey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dpeavey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/07/2018 at 9:53am
Gerard where are you from in New York??

I'm near Syracuse
Don
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dpeavey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/07/2018 at 9:51am
Hey There ... I'm in the same boat as you... well more than figuratively speaking!

I guess some of my most important questions are whether the panels have to be removed from the outside, or if they can be removed from the inside which would make more sense over removing the rail if its not necessary.

Ill share the material I finally choose when I get to that point.

As far as 1/4 inch Plywood and foam... that would be awesome, but there would still need to be some weather type of material on the outside...( frp or other - and on the inside for that matter too) all of which would add weight and thickness. I like the idea of the 1/4 inch though for general construction. The drawback to all of that however is weight... Exclamation


Don
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gerard143 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/06/2018 at 8:31pm
unfortunately these forums are all but dead.   Don't really see hardly any activity on here.  Hope you get answers.


Edited by gerard143 - 09/07/2018 at 11:49am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranger46350 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/04/2018 at 6:50pm
I am getting ready to replace the Cabin walls on my 2000 Suntracker Party Cruiser and really need some pointers as to removal of the old walls and what material to use for the new walls.......thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranger46350 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/04/2018 at 6:45pm
Did you ever finish your wall replacements?     I am getting ready to replace the walls on my 2000 32' Suntracker Party Cruiser and don't know where to start, how to remove the existing walls or what kind of replacement walls to use.    Could really use some help here....thanks!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cmick87 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/16/2018 at 8:06pm
I know this is a old post but where would I get the foam board from? I am trying to do this my self and was going to use R-tech foam from homedepot and use 1/4 plywood and sandwich it together will that work?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hayesj29020 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/23/2015 at 1:44pm
Yes. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SunBlocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/22/2015 at 9:48pm
Those are some pricey panels... but it sounds like they are probably top-notch quality and construction.

Are you shooting for the 1" finished thickness so you can use the Tracker extrusions?
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
The `Blocker Build
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hayesj29020 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/22/2015 at 4:38pm
 Sorry for the delay, I'm renovating the house and have put off the boat for now. Seems everything I have needs fixing!
This is what I think I'll go with.
Any prop suggestions?

stark@composite-essentials-llc.com

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Jim,
it was a pleasure to speak with you yesterday.  Per our discussion I would like to give you some options for panels to outfit your boat. 
1.) Have marine grade panels built specific to your sizes. Prices start at around $5/sq ft.  They would be finished on each side with a flat white appearance fiberglass.
2.) Utilize transportation specific panels harvested off of a manufacturing run.  These utilize a 16mm Nidaplast core with a white or black gel-coat finish on one side.  The skin could be put on the other side. Price on this panel is $9/sq ft.( I attached a photo of these being used on a trailer wall)
2.) Utilize a composite panel and coat it on both sides with a polyuria UV safe coating, beige.  This is similar to “truck bed liner/coating”. prices start around $7/sq ft.
 
If you can provide me with your ship to address, I can send you some samples of each option.

Regards,

Steve
Sent from Windows Mail
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Thanks for the good info.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SunBlocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/06/2015 at 4:03am
Originally posted by drm44 drm44 wrote:

I'm strongly considering the change over.(trying to wrap my mind around the shock of the cost). Does the hydraulic make the docking procedure much easier?(that's my main concern) I was trying to dock and trailer mine in a decent wind yesterday and it was a little tough with the cable steering(required a lot of working the wheel). Is it like a night and day experience(cable vs hydraulic)? Thanks as always. I really appreciate the info you pass along.

Well ya know... that all really depends on how gnarfed your mechanical cable is.  My old mechanical cable was pretty good, but it had a bit of backlash.  So I had to saw on the wheel a little more than I liked.  The new hydraulic system is virtually backlash free, and the wheel action is a bit "lighter". 

If you're really fighting the wheel I'd double check that your engine pivot is well lubed and that the engine can rotate freely with the cable link disconnected.  Hydraulic steering won't fix that problem.  If the engine rotates (pivots) freely then you're probably looking at a cable replacement... perhaps even the geared helm.  Then compare that cost to a full hydraulic system.. and decide if you can stomach the difference.  The "value" of the hydraulic system is knowing that it won't degrade... and it will give you smoother/lighter action than even a new mechanical system.
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
The `Blocker Build
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drm44 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/05/2015 at 5:57pm
I'm strongly considering the change over.(trying to wrap my mind around the shock of the cost). Does the hydraulic make the docking procedure much easier?(that's my main concern) I was trying to dock and trailer mine in a decent wind yesterday and it was a little tough with the cable steering(required a lot of working the wheel). Is it like a night and day experience(cable vs hydraulic)? Thanks as always. I really appreciate the info you pass along.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SunBlocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/04/2015 at 9:00pm
Originally posted by drm44 drm44 wrote:


I was curious does the Blocker have hydraulic steering? I have the cable sysem and it's really hard to steer(new cable put in by previous owner in 2010). Mechanic was talking to me about hydraulic. I have a 90 HP Merc.       
Thanks

Yes.... when I pulled the Johnson 60 off and replaced it with the E-Tec 90 I also went ahead and put on hydraulic steering.  I had re-lubed my mechanical cable, so it wasn't that bad....  but I decided to just go ahead and apply the "big hammer" when I had it all torn apart.

The hydraulic steering installation was easy.  I went with a tilt helm (which I really like) and a mix of Uflex and Seastar components.  Not much else to say besides it works, and it works well.
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
The `Blocker Build
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drm44 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/04/2015 at 8:50pm
Well I took the PC to the shop ($$$$$), I'm getting her tuned up and working on some other small items(hopefully).
I was curious does the Blocker have hydraulic steering? I have the cable sysem and it's really hard to steer(new cable put in by previous owner in 2010). Mechanic was talking to me about hydraulic. I have a 90 HP Merc.       
Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drm44 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/22/2015 at 12:19am
Sounds good. Thanks for the encouragement. That makes me feel better. I was getting kind of stressed out by the unknown. I'll have to wait a little while before I undertake the project. I have to let the initial purchase of the boat sink in on the home front before starting the project.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SunBlocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/21/2015 at 8:13pm
Well I'm sorry to hear that.....

As much as I love The `Blocker, it's almost criminal the way that Tracker designed the walls and support structure for the Party Cruiser.  I don't like the idea of Masonite being used for structural purposes.. especially in a marine environment. But if they had thought it through and spent just a little bit more time sealing between the top fence rail and the walls, they would have virtually eliminated the water intrusion at the base of the walls and the deterioration of the Masonite.  Yeah, the exterior vinyl surface would still bubble and decay, but that's just an exercise in re-skinning.

Don't be intimidated by replacing the walls on your boat.  It may seem like a daunting task, but it's really not that hard.  Frankly, the hardest part for me was finding a place to do it (in the winter).
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
The `Blocker Build
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drm44 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/21/2015 at 7:53pm
Thanks. I just checked out my lower walls and they are bowed, just like you said. Sounds like I have alot more work than I was anticipating. Like they say Boat (bring out another thousand). I really like the boat. It's the ultimate man cave on the water.(I'm trying to preserve my mental sanity). It's at a marina 2 miles from the house. It's the exact same color as your's before the awesome rework.
I'll make sure knowone gets up on the roof until after I undertake the wall replacement. Thanks again for all your knowledge.
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