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Stereo install to harness

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scrimshaw View Drop Down
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    Posted: 07/27/2012 at 8:09pm
For one thing whomever invented the wire harness is a genius! Just got mine in today along with siren, navigation lights, deck lights and stereo. How the heck do I install my dual marine stereo to the harness or do I and if not how do I get power to it? It came with wires for speakers and a snap connection to the stereo to about 10 wires of various colors, but I'm not sure how to hook up those wires to harness/harness' control panel. Pics to follow.  Thanks as always. < id="_npwlo" ="applicationpwlo" height="0">

Edited by scrimshaw - 07/27/2012 at 9:04pm
1989 Harris Flote Boat 20ft
1998 70 hp 2 stroke Johnson
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scrimshaw Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/27/2012 at 9:11pm
Here's the pics:

1.  Stereo wires from Dual Marine Stereo with two speakers (green, yellow, white, red, black, grey, purple, etc.); how do I connect these to the harness so I can control the on/off of the stereo from the harness' control panel?  There are also two black cords (shown) independent of the other wires that I'm not sure where they go.  Have read manual but everything is geared towards a car install not boat:


2.  Harness:  I've connected everything to harness including nav lights, stern light, courtesy lights, and the only connections not connected to anything are these two in the photo (red, black, orange):

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Edited by scrimshaw - 07/27/2012 at 9:13pm
1989 Harris Flote Boat 20ft
1998 70 hp 2 stroke Johnson
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scrimshaw Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/27/2012 at 9:19pm
3.  I have some other random wires like below with a fuse in the black snap box, and the colors are similar to those on the stereo but not sure how I'd connect them ultimately to the harness since the white snap doesn't fit into the white snap in the first photo above:


4.  These two things came with the harness but I'm not sure what they are and what I do with them.  Any ideas?

5.  Ultimately, the harness seems pretty straight forward to connect all the lights to the harness and it's control panel, but I'm unclear how to connect the stereo to the control panel on the harness so the power going to it can be controlled (on/off) as well as what I do with the things in the photo in picture "4." that say "ignition protected ETA".

Also, how would I go about connecting my GPS and fish finder to the same harness (just thinking ahead as I don't have those yet but  am wondering if I can integrate them to be controlled as far as power on/off by the control on the harness as well.

Thanks.
1989 Harris Flote Boat 20ft
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fireslayr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/27/2012 at 9:21pm
My Dual stereo wiring was red for positive black for negative and yellow for constant power.  My console switches only had an orange which was positive and a black for the negative. I did learn that the yellow wire had to be connected in order for the radio to work. Hope this helps
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scrimshaw Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/27/2012 at 9:29pm
Thanks as always fireslayr...if that's the case would the other wires just  be tied off and not used?

If you used black for negative and orange for your positive what did you connect the yellow to to control from your console?
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Edited by scrimshaw - 07/27/2012 at 9:30pm
1989 Harris Flote Boat 20ft
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/28/2012 at 7:32am
one the radio harness
red and yellow can go together they are the + 
black is the -
 
white and white with black stripe are the  left front speaker     black stripe is -
gray and gray with black stripe is right front speaker  again black stripe is -
purple and purple with black stripe is right rear speaker
green and green with black stripe is left rear speaker
 
these are the wires you will need to get it working, the rest are for dimmer, power antenna's, amps
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lower Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/28/2012 at 12:56pm
The two things you ask about are circuit breakers, not sure what they should be on in your harness but they are usually on the helm for easy access. The yellow wire needs to go to constant 12v or you will have to reset your stations and clock every time you turn the radio off. The red wire is the turn on wire for the radio.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/28/2012 at 1:42pm
where did you get a marine wiring harness at that has a connection for a SIREN? or did you mean HORN?  I know PontoonStuff doesn't sell a harness with a stereo connection and neither does EZACDC. EZACDC does sell switch panels and fuse panels that can have a stereo switch, and they all have installation instructions. Those wires are different colors for a reason, they are to standard marine codes. Even the PontoonStuff boat harness it to marine code. The accessory connections have (I know on EZACDC it does) a Red/Yellow and Black connection for the switch panels.
 

3 Position Accessory Connectors (Black, Red, and Orange)

Provides Switched power, power, and ground for accessory

o Black – Ground

o Red – Constant power

o Orange – Switched power

Easily connection to all EZ accessory harnesses

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MRT24 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/28/2012 at 2:34pm
Ya the wiring harness dosent have a stereo connection. What I did is I bought a fuse box from academy and mounted it under the console, then ran 2 wires to it from the battery one is hot and the other is ground now the fuse box is hot. Then I hooked up the wires from the raido to the fuse box and added the proper fuse and done...with the exception of speaker wire for the speakers. I've also used the fuse box for my gps/depth finder to hook up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scrimshaw Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/28/2012 at 2:51pm
Thanks guys that helps a lot; Charles, with the 3 point accessory connectors, I've got two of them, what are they used for and can I use them for the stereo?  Yep, meant horn instead of siren...you got me!;)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Woody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/30/2012 at 1:45pm
Sorry, I can't help you with the harness connections, but the Dual radio instructions clearly detail what to connect to. Although the black and yellow wire can connect to the same "hot" wire there is a difference. One is to power the radio and is usually connected to a wire that is only "hot" when the ignition switch is turned on. The other (yellow as I recall) is intended to connect to a wire that is always "hot" to maintain your clock and station memory buttons, as mentioned above. But we aware this wire will also put a constant drain on your battery. I never connected mine that way, not wanting to drain the battery, so therefore my clock and push buttons were always wrong when I went to use the boat. A seperate fused panel is the best way to connect up the power feed for electronics such as this radio, fish finder, etc. A seperate buss bar for the grounds is also convenient.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scrimshaw Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/30/2012 at 2:15pm
Thanks Woody, I'm proud of myself as I got the radio working this morning!  The instructions said to connect the red wire to ignition (which I don't have yet) and yellow wire to positive terminal on battery and black to ground.  I connected black to - terminal and red and yellow both to + terminal which got it to work.  I do have a separate switch on my control panel for the stereo, is this the right setup to not drain my battery.  I read online elsewhere about putting drain on battery and think it was if you connected to ignition.  Is that right?  I could care less about the time on the radio so don't mind that one bit, would rather not "drain" the battery.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Woody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/30/2012 at 2:32pm
Duh, I don't know what I was thinking when I said black and yellow, obviously it is red and yellow wires. (black is the hot wire in 120 volt wiring, not 12 volts).  My bad -- sorry! Yes, black is to be connected to the negative (ground). The way you have it connected should work fine if you don't care about the clock (which I didn't either). However I would suggest you connect the yellow to a wire that is normally hot and not connected to the ignition or a switch IF you use a main battery switch that completely turns off everything when you put the boat away at the end of the trip. This way, in case you set the clock or punch buttons while out, they will at least maintain their memory during that trip. The amperage drain is so slight that it takes many days or weeks to seriously drain it so one day won't create a drain. I left my boat in TX and it was usually weeks between trips, with no charger, so I didn't want any drain left on. Your usage may be different. 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/30/2012 at 3:43pm
If you want it on the switch panel, then put the yellow (memory) wire to the switch. That way you turn the switch on then turn on the stereo, flip switch off to turn stereo off (and poof so does anything in memory). Its how I did mine. All grounds go to a common ground. I use a buss bar for this. Ground from house (accessory) battery goes to it, ground from switch panel goes to it and ground from fuse block goes to it. Then smaller grounds can go to fuse block or ground wires from switches - whatever, its your imigination to design it as long as you keep the basics in mind. Everything eventually grounds to negative terminal of battery, one way or another. Same goes for power, whether its switched or constant but ALL accessories should be fused, whether its on the accessory itself, a breaker or one you put on like for a trolling motor (breaker). I love the ATC fuse panel myself, no glass fuses to rattle loose or break the little wire from vibrations.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sunny ledfurd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/15/2013 at 10:57am
Any advice when installing a new marine stereo in place of an old tape deck?  It just doesnt seem like the old and new wiring mesh up.....thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sunny ledfurd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/16/2013 at 12:40pm
After supplying beer to a friend, he instructed me on how to splice the wires and reuse the existing clips.  the stereo works now, just need to replace the piece that holds the glass 3A fuse and get it mounted and hope it doesnt get stolen!..then on to the next update!...
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