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Topic ClosedPWR-ARM II Wiring Diagram for Remote

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Direct Link To This Post Topic: PWR-ARM II Wiring Diagram for Remote
    Posted: 02/26/2012 at 3:17am
Got an email with the wiring diagram (YEAH!!) so gonna share it with everybody here in the tips and tricks section.
 
 
So click on the link to download it (or open it too I think if you have Adobe Reader or some other PDF reader) or right click the link to save to your machine. (Choose Save As - choose your location where you want it saved - probably on your desktop) 
 
You might also want to have the PDF I saved as an image and darkened the text and enlarge the picture a little for those with bad eyes like mine. I zipped it up for faster download, within that zipped folder is a 1.7meg bmp file.
 


Edited by Wildcat Dude - 02/28/2012 at 5:35pm
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/26/2012 at 10:00am
I wonder if the switch gets it's power (Positive) through the module with the remote control version. I noticed in the remote control diagram, the negative is now entering on the right side of the switch rather than the positive like in the non remote control version.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/26/2012 at 10:12am
If you had 2 of these on your boat, is there a way to porgram the remotes so they both dont work at the same time?
Dave


2012 Blood, Sweat,and Tears (Home Built)
28 foot tritoon
225 Mercury
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/26/2012 at 10:26am
Good question!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/26/2012 at 1:11pm
Originally posted by NH Tooner NH Tooner wrote:

If you had 2 of these on your boat, is there a way to porgram the remotes so they both dont work at the same time?
 
There is a silver toggle switch on the remote main box along with a push button next to it. Currently I don't have any info on this, but I know somebody who can get that info in the next few days. As I wondered about this since its possible at pontoon get-togethers you could have 2 or more boats with this, we'd want to insure one doesn't interfere with another. (if they have remotes.
 
And Rick, I see you're right too, (besides it not showing the positive connected) its now on the other side of the switch. So I think this location of the positive/negative on the side poles. After looking at the schematics again I see a trend. Both positive leads from the actuator are plugged into the terminal that's on the same side of the manual switch that the positive lead from the breaker is on, same is true of the negative leads from the actuators going to the terminal that below that side terminal the ground is connected to.
 
So based on that - in the remote control diagram the negative (ground) should be on the opposite side of the manual switch. Another thing I wished the breaker had and that's a rubber boot to shield those posts from accidently contact with a metal grounded object to keep it from shorting out. (so liquid tape will be handy to coat it)
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/28/2012 at 10:04am
Quote You can have several of these units next to each other and they don't interfere. It is a "rolling" type code and very rarely will one remote happen to work on another control box without being programmed specifically to that control.  I have attached a new schematic for the RF installation that shows the black "program" button and the silver "override" switch on the control box. The program button is used to program remotes to the control box and the silver switch will operate the top just like a helm switch in case you break your remote out on the water and need to get the top down to get back in and you didn't install a helm switch.
 
 
I'll post a few pics showing what he's referring to since the pdf is just a little bit lacking.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/28/2012 at 12:56pm
Ok pics of my wiring that works just dandy. I changed the red/black for the actuators to the toggle so you'd get a better understanding.
 
 
Brown below the black ground, white below the red positive lead. (RED is shown connected on switch IF you DON'T have a remote, otherwise leave RED OFF)
 
 
As you can see in this pic, the brown from the toggle switch goes into the slot closest to the silver toggle switch followed by White from the toggle switch. Now going from the far side away from the silver toggle (or right in this pic) is two ground wires (black), one from a good ground or grounding distribution block, other ground goes to the toggle switch left side (with spade terminals facing you).  Next is 2 power (positive) leads, one coming from the battery or any constant 12v power source (mine comes from power distribution block inside my console), which has the 5amp breaker mounted so NO source of Ground will touch it (I would coat the breaker terminals with liquid tape once I have the wires on it). Other power (red) lead goes to the toggle switch right side as the spade terminals face you.  Next is the actuator leads, Brown (2 wires) which is on the negative side of the actuator goes into the slot next to power leads, followed by the White (2 wires) which is on the positive side of the actuators.  This way your toggle switch when toggled upward, will raise the bimini as will the silver override toggle switch on the remote unit and so will the UP arrow on your remote keyfob.
 
You can also see in the pic above that black push button (program button) that was referenced above on how to program your remote. You won't have to program your current remote as its already done. If you happen to lose it and get another remote, follow the directions in the programming pdf.


Edited by Wildcat Dude - 05/28/2012 at 3:52pm
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/28/2012 at 5:03pm
UPDATE: A positive jumper from the remote box to the toggle switch IS NOT NEEDED. It will work just fine as it draws power through the ONE positive wire on the remote box.
 
I'll have Rick redo the diagram colors and I'll take a new pic of the toggle switch wiring.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/28/2012 at 5:36pm
Originally posted by rickdb1 rickdb1 wrote:

I wonder if the switch gets it's power (Positive) through the module with the remote control version. I noticed in the remote control diagram, the negative is now entering on the right side of the switch rather than the positive like in the non remote control version.
 
Rick, seems you thought right about this. Wink
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/28/2012 at 5:48pm
Updated schematic for PWR-ARM with remote control:
 
Larger view: Click here
 
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