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2000 32' Suntracker Party Cruiser wall replacement

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Category: Show Off Your Pontoon Boat
Forum Name: Pontoon Boat Rebuild Projects
Forum Description: Members/Customers who are rebuilding their Pontoon Boats
URL: http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=8329
Printed Date: 03/05/2021 at 7:48am
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Topic: 2000 32' Suntracker Party Cruiser wall replacement
Posted By: hayesj29020
Subject: 2000 32' Suntracker Party Cruiser wall replacement
Date Posted: 01/21/2015 at 4:07pm
Hey folks. New to the forum. I've been researching materials to replace the deteriorating walls on the Party Cruiser. I see some have used foam core, alum honeycomb, etc. I worry the foam core would be hard to mount to, and I wonder about the insulation properties and sweating of the alum honeycomb.
Would you guys do it again, or has someone thought of something better? Any leads would be appreciated. I hope to get her back in the water come spring.
Jim



Replies:
Posted By: grouser
Date Posted: 01/21/2015 at 5:35pm
Hope you get plenty of replies,,, I am looking at making a few walls to fully enclose my Party hut,,, hope to learn what worked and what did'nt,,,


-------------
Life is good,,,love your kids,,,be kind and Honorable.
2001 Sun Tracker 30 Party Hut
130hp Mercrusier I/O


Posted By: SunBlocker
Date Posted: 01/21/2015 at 5:48pm
Originally posted by hayesj29020 hayesj29020 wrote:

Hey folks. New to the forum. I've been researching materials to replace the deteriorating walls on the Party Cruiser. I see some have used foam core, alum honeycomb, etc. I worry the foam core would be hard to mount to, and I wonder about the insulation properties and sweating of the alum honeycomb.
Would you guys do it again, or has someone thought of something better? Any leads would be appreciated. I hope to get her back in the water come spring.
Jim

Personally I don't regret my decision to go with the Plastex and foam core wall boards.  Yes, you have to give it some thought when you want to hang things on the walls.  Personally I used threaded plastic anchors that I slathered with plastic adhesive before I screwed them into the wall.  Quite sturdy, and I've hung all kinds fo things on my walls (bathroom fixtures, mini-blinds, etc..).

But keep in mind that my walls didn't need to be structural.  So I was just looking for an aesthetically pleasing, easy to work with, 1" thick skinned insulation.


-------------
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/sunblocker-1992-party-cruiser_topic3192.html" rel="nofollow - The `Blocker Build


Posted By: hayesj29020
Date Posted: 01/21/2015 at 6:10pm
Good to know. The steering console was the first thing to fall in my lap. Then cabinets blinds etc.... Just poor construction.



Posted By: Cclements716
Date Posted: 02/04/2015 at 2:30pm
I rebuilt a party hut summer before last. I used foam core and frp. There is a special glub that you have to use. You can order everything from home depot. I think the glue was 50-65 a gallon if i remember correctly. If you do use the foam you have to peel th eprotective plastic away from the foam board to ensure that the glue will properly adhere to the foam. I made up the panel in full sheets (4ftx8ft) and then sat3-4 sheets of 3/4 treated plywood on top of them for 1-2 weeks to ensure that the panels were adhered to the foam properly. Then cut to size and reattached the aluminum end caps with 1/4" or 3/8" stainless steel screws. I have pics of the rebuild and pics of the products used. I will try and find them when i get home tonight.

-------------
1995 Misty Harbor Ski-Toon 22ft
1988 Sun Tracker Party Hut 28ft New Everything -Sold
2004 Sun Tracker Party Hut 30ft - Sold
2005 Sun Tracker Party Hut 30 Regency - Sold


Posted By: drm44
Date Posted: 02/20/2015 at 2:26am
Hey Jim. I also recently purchased a 1991 Party Cruiser and need to repair the outside of the exterior walls. The walls are structurally sound, they just don't look good. Did you have any ideas on how you where going to repair yours? I've asked around locally and can't find anyone who is interested in tackling the project(at least that I feel comfortable with). Sweet boats aren't they? I love mine.
Thanks,
Daniel


Posted By: SunBlocker
Date Posted: 02/20/2015 at 3:13am
Just a fair warning, if you have a 1991 Party Cruiser I seriously doubt that the walls are structurally sound... especially at their bottoms. I've seen Many early 90's vintage PCs. Not one has had solid walls. And sadly, on these boats the walls are structural.

Take a look at my build (in my signature) if you get a chance.

-------------
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/sunblocker-1992-party-cruiser_topic3192.html" rel="nofollow - The `Blocker Build


Posted By: drm44
Date Posted: 02/20/2015 at 9:02pm
Thanks for the info. I looked over your rebuild, it looks great. I wish I had your skills.
Is there any way to look at the exterior walls and determine if they have structural issues? I've tried to find someone local to work on the boat walls but haven't found anyone that seems to have the knowledge(unfamiliar boat to everyone).
The guy I bought the boat from repaneled the interior walls in 2010. Can you replace the exterior walls without replacing the interior walls? Or does it have to be done as one project(sorry if this shows my ignorance)? Thanks in advance.
 
Daniel


Posted By: SunBlocker
Date Posted: 02/20/2015 at 9:30pm
The walls are single thickness laminates.  In other words, you can re-skin the interior, but you can't "replace the interior walls" without simultaneously replacing the exterior walls.  They're only 1" thick.

Look down the side of your boat.  Look carefully at the fencing on the lower half of the cabin walls.  If that fencing (the sheet metal panels) is bowing out (or in) even the slightest amount then the bottoms of the walls are deteriorating and no longer properly supporting the weight of the top deck.

If you look at this early picture of The `Blocker you can see how the fence aft of the cabin is nice and flat, while the fencing in the cabin area has that "bow":



At the time I didn't know what was causing this.  Once I took the walls apart the issue became obvious.


-------------
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/sunblocker-1992-party-cruiser_topic3192.html" rel="nofollow - The `Blocker Build


Posted By: drm44
Date Posted: 02/21/2015 at 3:03am
Thanks for the great information. I always enjoy talking to someone who is very knowledgeable. Do you have any ideas on what type of person(carpenter, upholstry guy, ect) would be the best individual to replace my walls? i've talked to the local boat shops and haven't had any sucess in finding anyone to tackle the job,
Thanks again,
Daniel


Posted By: SunBlocker
Date Posted: 02/21/2015 at 3:18pm
Originally posted by drm44 drm44 wrote:

Thanks for the great information. I always enjoy talking to someone who is very knowledgeable. Do you have any ideas on what type of person(carpenter, upholstry guy, ect) would be the best individual to replace my walls? i've talked to the local boat shops and haven't had any sucess in finding anyone to tackle the job,
Thanks again,
Daniel

I reckon any general handyman can do it.  If your replacement panels are 4x8 then the only cutting on the actual panels that is required are the cutouts for the windows (Rotozip or jig saw).  If your new panels are structural (like the old ones) then there is little in the way of aluminum work.. just a lot Pop riveting.  If the new panels aren't structural (like mine), then there would be some aluminum fabrication too (although I didn't have to do any welding).

You don't have to take off the top deck, and I didn't even remove my galley/counter or upper cabinet.  The bench seat came out from the port side (easy) and the shower/head needs to be partially disassembled for access.  The rest can be done from the "outside" after you remove just the center section of fencing (easy).

If you don't need or want to replace the front and rear bulkhead panels (front sliding glass door area and rear hinged door area) then it's even easier.  I went ahead and replaced every panel, including the head enclosure and doors. 


-------------
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/sunblocker-1992-party-cruiser_topic3192.html" rel="nofollow - The `Blocker Build


Posted By: drm44
Date Posted: 02/21/2015 at 7:53pm
Thanks. I just checked out my lower walls and they are bowed, just like you said. Sounds like I have alot more work than I was anticipating. Like they say Boat (bring out another thousand). I really like the boat. It's the ultimate man cave on the water.(I'm trying to preserve my mental sanity). It's at a marina 2 miles from the house. It's the exact same color as your's before the awesome rework.
I'll make sure knowone gets up on the roof until after I undertake the wall replacement. Thanks again for all your knowledge.


Posted By: SunBlocker
Date Posted: 02/21/2015 at 8:13pm
Well I'm sorry to hear that.....

As much as I love The `Blocker, it's almost criminal the way that Tracker designed the walls and support structure for the Party Cruiser.  I don't like the idea of Masonite being used for structural purposes.. especially in a marine environment. But if they had thought it through and spent just a little bit more time sealing between the top fence rail and the walls, they would have virtually eliminated the water intrusion at the base of the walls and the deterioration of the Masonite.  Yeah, the exterior vinyl surface would still bubble and decay, but that's just an exercise in re-skinning.

Don't be intimidated by replacing the walls on your boat.  It may seem like a daunting task, but it's really not that hard.  Frankly, the hardest part for me was finding a place to do it (in the winter).


-------------
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/sunblocker-1992-party-cruiser_topic3192.html" rel="nofollow - The `Blocker Build


Posted By: drm44
Date Posted: 02/22/2015 at 12:19am
Sounds good. Thanks for the encouragement. That makes me feel better. I was getting kind of stressed out by the unknown. I'll have to wait a little while before I undertake the project. I have to let the initial purchase of the boat sink in on the home front before starting the project.


Posted By: drm44
Date Posted: 03/04/2015 at 8:50pm
Well I took the PC to the shop ($$$$$), I'm getting her tuned up and working on some other small items(hopefully).
I was curious does the Blocker have hydraulic steering? I have the cable sysem and it's really hard to steer(new cable put in by previous owner in 2010). Mechanic was talking to me about hydraulic. I have a 90 HP Merc.       
Thanks


Posted By: SunBlocker
Date Posted: 03/04/2015 at 9:00pm
Originally posted by drm44 drm44 wrote:


I was curious does the Blocker have hydraulic steering? I have the cable sysem and it's really hard to steer(new cable put in by previous owner in 2010). Mechanic was talking to me about hydraulic. I have a 90 HP Merc.       
Thanks

Yes.... when I pulled the Johnson 60 off and replaced it with the E-Tec 90 I also went ahead and put on hydraulic steering.  I had re-lubed my mechanical cable, so it wasn't that bad....  but I decided to just go ahead and apply the "big hammer" when I had it all torn apart.

The hydraulic steering installation was easy.  I went with a tilt helm (which I really like) and a mix of Uflex and Seastar components.  Not much else to say besides it works, and it works well.


-------------
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/sunblocker-1992-party-cruiser_topic3192.html" rel="nofollow - The `Blocker Build


Posted By: drm44
Date Posted: 03/05/2015 at 5:57pm
I'm strongly considering the change over.(trying to wrap my mind around the shock of the cost). Does the hydraulic make the docking procedure much easier?(that's my main concern) I was trying to dock and trailer mine in a decent wind yesterday and it was a little tough with the cable steering(required a lot of working the wheel). Is it like a night and day experience(cable vs hydraulic)? Thanks as always. I really appreciate the info you pass along.


Posted By: SunBlocker
Date Posted: 03/06/2015 at 4:03am
Originally posted by drm44 drm44 wrote:

I'm strongly considering the change over.(trying to wrap my mind around the shock of the cost). Does the hydraulic make the docking procedure much easier?(that's my main concern) I was trying to dock and trailer mine in a decent wind yesterday and it was a little tough with the cable steering(required a lot of working the wheel). Is it like a night and day experience(cable vs hydraulic)? Thanks as always. I really appreciate the info you pass along.

Well ya know... that all really depends on how gnarfed your mechanical cable is.  My old mechanical cable was pretty good, but it had a bit of backlash.  So I had to saw on the wheel a little more than I liked.  The new hydraulic system is virtually backlash free, and the wheel action is a bit "lighter". 

If you're really fighting the wheel I'd double check that your engine pivot is well lubed and that the engine can rotate freely with the cable link disconnected.  Hydraulic steering won't fix that problem.  If the engine rotates (pivots) freely then you're probably looking at a cable replacement... perhaps even the geared helm.  Then compare that cost to a full hydraulic system.. and decide if you can stomach the difference.  The "value" of the hydraulic system is knowing that it won't degrade... and it will give you smoother/lighter action than even a new mechanical system.


-------------
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/sunblocker-1992-party-cruiser_topic3192.html" rel="nofollow - The `Blocker Build


Posted By: drm44
Date Posted: 03/06/2015 at 4:45am
Thanks for the good info.


Posted By: hayesj29020
Date Posted: 03/22/2015 at 4:38pm
 Sorry for the delay, I'm renovating the house and have put off the boat for now. Seems everything I have needs fixing!
This is what I think I'll go with.
Any prop suggestions?

stark@composite-essentials-llc.com

AttachmentsJan 29
to me
Jim,
it was a pleasure to speak with you yesterday.  Per our discussion I would like to give you some options for panels to outfit your boat. 
1.) Have marine grade panels built specific to your sizes. Prices start at around $5/sq ft.  They would be finished on each side with a flat white appearance fiberglass.
2.) Utilize transportation specific panels harvested off of a manufacturing run.  These utilize a 16mm Nidaplast core with a white or black gel-coat finish on one side.  The skin could be put on the other side. Price on this panel is $9/sq ft.( I attached a photo of these being used on a trailer wall)
2.) Utilize a composite panel and coat it on both sides with a polyuria UV safe coating, beige.  This is similar to “truck bed liner/coating”. prices start around $7/sq ft.
 
If you can provide me with your ship to address, I can send you some samples of each option.

Regards,

Steve
Sent from Windows Mail
Attachments area
https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui=2&ik=f4adc81e18&view=att&th=14b37051f163a7b2&attid=0.1&disp=safe&zw" rel="nofollow">Preview attachment IMG_0428.JPG
Image
IMG_0428.JPG


Posted By: SunBlocker
Date Posted: 03/22/2015 at 9:48pm
Those are some pricey panels... but it sounds like they are probably top-notch quality and construction.

Are you shooting for the 1" finished thickness so you can use the Tracker extrusions?


-------------
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/sunblocker-1992-party-cruiser_topic3192.html" rel="nofollow - The `Blocker Build


Posted By: hayesj29020
Date Posted: 03/23/2015 at 1:44pm
Yes. 



Posted By: cmick87
Date Posted: 05/16/2018 at 8:06pm
I know this is a old post but where would I get the foam board from? I am trying to do this my self and was going to use R-tech foam from homedepot and use 1/4 plywood and sandwich it together will that work?


Posted By: Ranger46350
Date Posted: 09/04/2018 at 6:45pm
Did you ever finish your wall replacements?     I am getting ready to replace the walls on my 2000 32' Suntracker Party Cruiser and don't know where to start, how to remove the existing walls or what kind of replacement walls to use.    Could really use some help here....thanks!!

-------------
Rangerone


Posted By: Ranger46350
Date Posted: 09/04/2018 at 6:50pm
I am getting ready to replace the Cabin walls on my 2000 Suntracker Party Cruiser and really need some pointers as to removal of the old walls and what material to use for the new walls.......thanks!

-------------
Rangerone


Posted By: gerard143
Date Posted: 09/06/2018 at 8:31pm
unfortunately these forums are all but dead.   Don't really see hardly any activity on here.  Hope you get answers.


Posted By: dpeavey
Date Posted: 09/07/2018 at 9:51am
Hey There ... I'm in the same boat as you... well more than figuratively speaking!

I guess some of my most important questions are whether the panels have to be removed from the outside, or if they can be removed from the inside which would make more sense over removing the rail if its not necessary.

Ill share the material I finally choose when I get to that point.

As far as 1/4 inch Plywood and foam... that would be awesome, but there would still need to be some weather type of material on the outside...( frp or other - and on the inside for that matter too) all of which would add weight and thickness. I like the idea of the 1/4 inch though for general construction. The drawback to all of that however is weight... Exclamation




-------------
Don


Posted By: dpeavey
Date Posted: 09/07/2018 at 9:53am
Gerard where are you from in New York??

I'm near Syracuse


-------------
Don


Posted By: dpeavey
Date Posted: 09/07/2018 at 10:02am
I have personally seen 3 of these boats in New York...

1 1994 at Oneida Lake Syracuse NY 16' roof deck enclosed cabin Plywood Base $8,500
1 1995 at Sacandaga Lake Albany NY 14' roof deck enclosed cabin Aluminum base $12,500
1 1994 (?) at Sacandage Lake Albany NY 10' roof deck with open cabin walls Plywood Base $15,000(?)

All of these boats were in a relative poor state and needed repairs like Roof material and side walls, the standard items typically needing replacement in these boats. 

I think its just a matter of time before the thread starts in earnest again! Smile


-------------
Don


Posted By: gerard143
Date Posted: 09/07/2018 at 11:50am
Same here. Just outside Syracuse by weedsport.


Posted By: dpeavey
Date Posted: 09/07/2018 at 2:07pm
Wow... do you have one of these boats?

I just saw another one online for sale ... same condition as mine but with a few add one... $20,000



-------------
Don


Posted By: dpeavey
Date Posted: 09/07/2018 at 2:11pm
There's a company ...fast forward fiberglass repair that replaced several panels on a 2005 32ft suntracker that's docked in Sylvan Beach... they may have some more information on what may be available from suntracker for these boats as original replacement panels.

Those panels were replaced due to heat damage from another boat that caught on fire there...


-------------
Don


Posted By: GSolo
Date Posted: 03/27/2019 at 9:55pm
Fiber-Tech Industries, Inc., based in Washington Courthouse, OH, is selling Sun Tracker cabin wall replacement panels.  Stock panels are .98"(+/-) x 48" x 94".  Polypropylene honeycomb core, fiberglass skins, glossy white gel coat both sides.  Please contact gsolomon@fiber-tech.net for more information.  


Posted By: Drummer
Date Posted: 05/10/2019 at 3:29pm
I just found this website: HouseBoatParts.net. I don't have a quote yet, but they will be quoting panels for my Party Hut in the material pictured here:

I'm hoping for reasonable pricing. I will let you know. Maybe if there is enough interest we can help them get the cost down. 



Posted By: bnelson
Date Posted: 06/12/2019 at 3:24am
Curious to how the numbers came back?

-------------
Bryce Nelson


Posted By: dpeavey
Date Posted: 06/17/2019 at 8:26am
Gerard... haw are you making out?

I purchased a 1995 suntracker PC 32 last fall for $5000 with an extremely bad roof, unknown motor condition, no canvas, and pitted pontoons. The boat had been in salt water for an extended time with barnacle wear and tear, but the bottoms of the toons appear to have been sealed with an epoxy coating which does add life.

The boat has a plywood deck that appears structurally sound. .

The aluminum all over has salt water deterioration that is only aesthetic and not structurally impaired.

The boat was cleaned of moss and muddy carpets, the interior was totally cleaned and the same for the head area and the aft deck. I installed a new white rubber roof in comparison to the PVC material. And glued it down to the existing 3/4 plywood roof deck. After that most of the interior was weatherproof except for the transition of the upper wall aluminum track to vertical wall aluminum support/joiner "T" extrusions.

Those areas leaked as there is no clear weather seal at this juncture other than possibly some internal caulk or foam tape applied before the wall panels were set in at the factory.

With that ($600) and $2000 in repairs to the 1995 115hp Merc motor (-repowered in 2000 by the factory), and replacing the stator and controller plus misc, electrical, a new starter, 2 batteries, a new battery switch, some electrical wiring repairs to the electrical system we put the boat in the water in late August.

We had a blast for about 45 days on this boat!

We pulled it out 7 days before the lake froze over for the winter.



-------------
Don


Posted By: dpeavey
Date Posted: 06/17/2019 at 8:54am
Drummer...

I am curious too about the material you have in your hand in the photo.

If it's a composite material ( Black plastic with a UV protected white finish) it does look like it could be structural enough for most rebuilds. I think the key is UV protected. Most material that you buy at home depot won't protect the materials from The sun, and in a boat there is gobs of that around.

FRP is only good on interior surfaces... it will degrade fairly quickly in sunlight.

The material I have looked at and are posted here and that's what I'm leaning toward. Honeycomb core and gelcoat finished both sides. I'm just wondering what water infiltration might do to the honeycomb material should it get in... and it will take a full wrap of an aluminum extrusion or other material to overlap the vertical to roof cap transition to keep the water away from gaining access to the core.

When I redid the roof with rubber I left 6" hanging down around the edges all the way around the top. Them I set the 3" or so deep aluminum roof cap on that . I haven't reattached the cap yet. But what I do do (which I am now really kicking myself for, is cutting the rubber that was hanging down even with the bottom of the roof cap!!! Were I to have   left it hang, that would have been my roof to wall weathertight seal.


-------------
Don


Posted By: dpeavey
Date Posted: 06/17/2019 at 9:21am
I'll post photos of before and after later on today.

We did remove the outside cabinetry near the front slider door.

It was all plywood and held moisture against the floor... not good for the longevity of the cabinet or the floor material.

I was looking at purchasing the same boat in a different configuration...
inside control cockpit, less inside floor space, extended rear deck space, and an aluminum deck Ofer plywood...

I really liked the aluminum deck idea a lot, but that boat didn't have the available usable inside square footage of the plywood deck, and ... it was $12,500 (it was a 2000 model year too)

I opted for the expanded interior space and the exterior control cockpit as the weather here is touch and go, definitely not Arizona weather in New New York State!

Although I like the interior cockpit due to keeping the electrical and other components dry... it does use valuable interior space. Believe it or not I'm much more into being indoors and away from the suns damaging effects as I get older. ☺️

I may draw up a few floor layouts that I have seen and post them here. I'm thinking there were quite a few options available. I have another 32 on the same lake as I am on, and it has only 2 exterior wall panels, one for the kitchen backer area and one for the bathroom. They each may have 2 wall panels set in an "L configuration for support and such. However most of that cruiser is canvas, sans the top which is a full top like my 32.


-------------
Don


Posted By: gerard143
Date Posted: 06/18/2019 at 3:11pm
things are going ok on my end.   I should have it at least useable again in a couple weeks.   

Still have a lot I'd like to do after that though.     It's been a project thats for sure, but its coming out awesome. 


Posted By: Razorback
Date Posted: 08/11/2019 at 3:26am
The wall idea looks good!  I'm interested in how much it will cost.  I'm also looking into wall replacement ideas.  Question:  Is the foam closed cell?


Posted By: Manaya1127
Date Posted: 12/15/2020 at 4:04pm
Hi, My name is Manny and I just bought a 2000 Suntracker Party cruiser 32 and my wall on the exterior are like coming off,like peeling off sounds better not to bad. What do you know about that year? So what you guys are saying if I start removing walls the roof might cave In and drop on my head or are the walls the only thing holding the roof? This pontoon is in pretty good shape for the years. It has a 3.0 chevy engine 135 hp and I'm needing to replace parts like the fume hose is missing and that's important things like that. any help I can get I will greatly appreciate it, or call me at 505 470-0241



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