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1978 24ft Crest pontoon floor rebuild

Printed From: Pontoon Forum
Category: Show Off Your Pontoon Boat
Forum Name: Pontoon Boat Rebuild Projects
Forum Description: Members/Customers who are rebuilding their Pontoon Boats
URL: http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=8291
Printed Date: 09/24/2018 at 6:35pm
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Topic: 1978 24ft Crest pontoon floor rebuild
Posted By: fmgarner
Subject: 1978 24ft Crest pontoon floor rebuild
Date Posted: 10/08/2014 at 11:13pm
So I have a 1978 24 ft Crest pontoon with a 1979 50hp 
evinrude that I bought so we could go camping around our area 
of Tennessee. I have owned it for about 2 years and the floor 
now needs replacing.
Reading the forum on pontoonstuff.com I had found someone 
screen name "structures" that had  about the same size and 
year of my pontoon.
So he sounded like he had some money to go all the way with 
his but for me I do not think I will be doing everything he did.

My plan is to replace the floor and carpet, maybe add some 
length to the back and put a sun deck on add a new helm and 
repair or replace the seats, build a hideaway for the anchor 
under the floor up front.
Other ideal are to add 110 inverter with some plugs, rope 
lights on the floor and a hard top to dive off plus put lights 
up on the top so we can camp on it at night and be able to 
enclose it for sleeping.

Now "structure" said he did this and the back sat in the water 
over half the pontoon. I am going to use 1/2" marine plywood 
that I had found online,  It seem to very hard to find marine 
plywood. I did find 3/4" and was told if I use 1/2" the floor 
would be very floppy but when I had check the size on my 
boat, that was what was on it. 
I hope to have this project done by spring for the summer use.

I have not order anything yet so if anybody has better place to 
buy what I need that would be less cost then please let me know



-------------
Frank



Replies:
Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/08/2014 at 11:25pm


-------------
Frank


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/08/2014 at 11:27pm
so I am still learning how to post and add pictures

-------------
Frank


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/08/2014 at 11:34pm


-------------
Frank


Posted By: p3cflyr
Date Posted: 10/09/2014 at 2:10am
I've not heard of 1/2 inch plywood being used.  How far apart are your cross members?  Where did you find 1/2 inch plywood and is it "CCA" Marine plywood?  CAA is used by the mfg's for wood decking.  And there are very few who have used anything other than CCA Marine Plywood (excepting aluminum of course).  I suggest serious consideration of going with CCA and at least 5/8 inch plywood.  Others will chime in.  Welcome to the forum.


-------------
Mike

"Atta Boy" Award June 2011
1987 Lowes Fish and Fun 20ft
1999 Merc 50hp 4 strk big foot
Kirksville, Mo
P3C Orion Pilot
ASW Warfare Specialist


Posted By: Lando
Date Posted: 10/10/2014 at 12:57am
Seriously consider 3/4" not much money considering how many hours you will have on this project. Fix the floor now. Wait on furniture.

-------------
Orange is the New Black
94 24' Lowe Suncruiser
2003 Johnson 60HP 4 stroke
JL Audio

Blue is the New Black
Center Console Work Boat
1999 24' PrinceCraft
2006 Mercury 60HP 4 stroke


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/10/2014 at 6:49am
I found 1/2" at marine-plywood.us and when we pull the bimi top off, the floor was rotten so the bracket and bolt was already out of the floor. We used the measurement from that to decide what thickness it was. I have not bought anything yet so I can change the size. I think the pontoons are 19" so weight is a factor

I could use all the input I can get for this project.

I need help in finding the best prices online without buying things that will not last. I can not afford the premium so I will have to go with the standard. I am replacing......
Floor
Carpet
Helm
Fence 22X8 with 4 gates I hope
Sun deck kit
gas tank

My ideal are bigger than my pockets so this is going to be an all season repair


-------------
Frank


Posted By: fatdaddy
Date Posted: 10/10/2014 at 8:47am
I would go with the 3/4 for sure....and you can't beat the prices from Pontoonstuff, especially when you consider the free shipping...I found a treated 3/4 product near me that was much cheaper than marine plywood that does not react with alum....if I ever do another toon, I will go with alum decking boards....but they are not cheap and I can understand budget issues, as I did mine as cheap as I could...look forward to seeing you project come together!!

-------------
Keith Winders
Whitesburg, GA
My 1989 SYLVAN REBUILD
24 Footer
88HP Johnson
CHILLIN' THE MOST!


Posted By: p3cflyr
Date Posted: 10/10/2014 at 10:26am
I Google'd the marine plywood.us and came up with "Homestead plywood" which is that address.  I got my deck from them and used 5/8's which was the original on my boat.  the 1/2" CCA from Homestead is
$52.00 a sheet.  You need to add shipping to that.  And shipping on mine was almost as much as the cost of the plywood.  So consideration should be given to free shipping from PS.  Also my tubes were 19" as were many older boats.  And most had 3/4 inch plywood.  If you worry about weight because you intend to carry many people or lots of gear (weight) then adding a center tube will help with that.

Also, I'd look for checking that thickness measurement at other places on the boat.  I find it hard to believe that 1/2" was used on your boat, unless someone else did a re-deck and used less than standard thicknesses.  Lastly the spacing of the cross members from side to side above the tubes which support the deck has a bearing on the thickness of plywood to use.  Mine were 16" and supported 5/8" plywood.


-------------
Mike

"Atta Boy" Award June 2011
1987 Lowes Fish and Fun 20ft
1999 Merc 50hp 4 strk big foot
Kirksville, Mo
P3C Orion Pilot
ASW Warfare Specialist


Posted By: Barnmb7117
Date Posted: 10/10/2014 at 12:19pm
Also check the spacing of your cross members on a lot of older pontoons with 19 tubes the spacing is every 2 feet and 1/2" plywood will not be strong enough.  I would go with 3/4".
  I also would not add any length that will add weight. The more you add the more weight you will have.


-------------
Mike
1993 Tracker fishing barge 21
2015 Evinrude pontoon series 90 hp
Summer - On the wolf River Weyauwega, WI
Winter- Chicago, IL


Posted By: Barnmb7117
Date Posted: 10/10/2014 at 12:32pm
I saw you were going to add a gas tank I use 2 - 6 gal tanks one on each  side. I would not instill one large tank like like a 24 or 30 gal. It just add to much weight.
 Were are you located it just says United States.
  I have a 1985 Riviera Cruiser pontoon 20' with 19" tubes that I just redid and I am not happy the front has taken a nose dive twice when I had people sitting in the front very scary when they are 2 and 4 years old.


-------------
Mike
1993 Tracker fishing barge 21
2015 Evinrude pontoon series 90 hp
Summer - On the wolf River Weyauwega, WI
Winter- Chicago, IL


Posted By: RcgTexas
Date Posted: 10/11/2014 at 10:48am
Originally posted by fatdaddy fatdaddy wrote:



I would go with the 3/4 for sure....and you can't beat the prices from Pontoonstuff, especially when you consider the free shipping...I found a treated 3/4 product near me that was much cheaper than marine plywood that does not react with alum....if I ever do another toon, I will go with alum decking boards....but they are not cheap and I can understand budget issues, as I did mine as cheap as I could...look forward to seeing you project come together!!


What he said 3/4 is the stuff! aluminum would be better but is expensive!

-------------
"Thanks Dad!"
1995 beachcomber rebuild.
135 Honda Fourstroke.


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/11/2014 at 8:42pm
Originally posted by fatdaddy fatdaddy wrote:

I would go with the 3/4 for sure....and you can't beat the prices from Pontoonstuff, especially when you consider the free shipping...I found a treated 3/4 product near me that was much cheaper than marine plywood that does not react with alum....if I ever do another toon, I will go with alum decking boards....but they are not cheap and I can understand budget issues, as I did mine as cheap as I could...look forward to seeing you project come together!!

The only reason I am looking at 1/2" is to keep the weight down off the pontoon 3/4" is the way to go if the small  pontoons can hold all the weight but if "p3cflyer" can get me the link for the 5/8" I might go with that.
Pontoonstuff does not make it easy to find the wood so if you have a link please share.




-------------
Frank


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/11/2014 at 8:45pm
Originally posted by p3cflyr p3cflyr wrote:

I Google'd the marine plywood.us and came up with "Homestead plywood" which is that address.  I got my deck from them and used 5/8's which was the original on my boat.  the 1/2" CCA from Homestead is
$52.00 a sheet.  You need to add shipping to that.  And shipping on mine was almost as much as the cost of the plywood.  So consideration should be given to free shipping from PS.  Also my tubes were 19" as were many older boats.  And most had 3/4 inch plywood.  If you worry about weight because you intend to carry many people or lots of gear (weight) then adding a center tube will help with that.

Also, I'd look for checking that thickness measurement at other places on the boat.  I find it hard to believe that 1/2" was used on your boat, unless someone else did a re-deck and used less than standard thicknesses.  Lastly the spacing of the cross members from side to side above the tubes which support the deck has a bearing on the thickness of plywood to use.  Mine were 16" and supported 5/8" plywood.

if you still have the link for the 5/8 please share and so I can check it out. Not sure if it was replace before or not but the bottom of the floor was marine painted. The cross members look to be 24" a part but I have not measure it.


-------------
Frank


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/11/2014 at 8:46pm
Originally posted by Barnmb7117 Barnmb7117 wrote:

I saw you were going to add a gas tank I use 2 - 6 gal tanks one on each  side. I would not instill one large tank like like a 24 or 30 gal. It just add to much weight.
 Were are you located it just says United States.
  I have a 1985 Riviera Cruiser pontoon 20' with 19" tubes that I just redid and I am not happy the front has taken a nose dive twice when I had people sitting in the front very scary when they are 2 and 4 years old.

I was only planning on adding the sun deck with rear gate but I thought it needed a floor under it. Both 6 gal gas tanks always sat back there anyways and I did not think I would be adding that much weight with what I was planning to do. I was thinking it would be about 20 to 40 LBS added back there and didn't think that was going to sink it much.
Did you add length to your boat? Mine took a nose dive once but it was because a big boat was plowing thru the water and making big wave and it scared me like crazy and yes we had alot of people on at the time.


-------------
Frank


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/11/2014 at 8:58pm
You Guys are great keep all the information coming because I could use it.
As of right now I have not order anything because I wanted to hear what others had to say.

1)Adding the 3rd toon with gas tank was  a thought but I am sure that will cost alot but if someone has a price and a link please share.
2) everythingpontoon.com had the 3/4 for $65 and $140 shipping
3) any help in prices and links to good quality
carpet 
fencing
the bigger helm
pontoon furniture
and bimini tops 8x12 because we plan on camping on our boat



-------------
Frank


Posted By: p3cflyr
Date Posted: 10/11/2014 at 11:34pm
Look at my post which you repeated.  the link is there.  i think its the same site you found 1/2 inch plywood at.  

http://springfieldmo.ebayclassifieds.com/boats/salem/pontoon-boat-logs-tubes-floats-new-and-used/?ad=6770692

 link for blemished and used tubes in Salem Mo above.


-------------
Mike

"Atta Boy" Award June 2011
1987 Lowes Fish and Fun 20ft
1999 Merc 50hp 4 strk big foot
Kirksville, Mo
P3C Orion Pilot
ASW Warfare Specialist


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/12/2014 at 5:49pm
Originally posted by p3cflyr p3cflyr wrote:

Look at my post which you repeated.  the link is there.  i think its the same site you found 1/2 inch plywood at.  

http://springfieldmo.ebayclassifieds.com/boats/salem/pontoon-boat-logs-tubes-floats-new-and-used/?ad=6770692

 link for blemished and used tubes in Salem Mo above.

thanks for the link
I had contacted him about the center toon and he told me they start at $1200


-------------
Frank


Posted By: curtiscapk
Date Posted: 10/12/2014 at 7:55pm
how about Bud's
 
http://www.budsmotorsports.com/pontoon-logs" rel="nofollow - http://www.budsmotorsports.com/pontoon-logs
 
 


-------------
Craig n Paula
http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7781&title=the-floater-rebuild" rel="nofollow - THE FLOATER Rebuild
94 Party Barge 24' 115 merc
22mph
OP KS
Truman Lake


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/13/2014 at 8:46pm
Originally posted by curtiscapk curtiscapk wrote:

how about Bud's
 
http://www.budsmotorsports.com/pontoon-logs" rel="nofollow - http://www.budsmotorsports.com/pontoon-logs
 
 

Thanks for the link, They have some great prices but the center log is $1200.
I am shocked with the great prices they have for maybe upgrading the size on my
pontoons


-------------
Frank


Posted By: curtiscapk
Date Posted: 10/14/2014 at 9:12am
I know I just found them. A guy on Craigslist turned me on to him. I am looking for a transom. I might as well be digging for gold!

-------------
Craig n Paula
http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7781&title=the-floater-rebuild" rel="nofollow - THE FLOATER Rebuild
94 Party Barge 24' 115 merc
22mph
OP KS
Truman Lake


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/14/2014 at 1:31pm
If you come across some more places that offer anything for pontoons that are low in price please let me know. I would like to give my boat alot but it is so expensive to buy online and nobody carries anything near me in Johnson City Tennessee

-------------
Frank


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/14/2014 at 1:35pm
Pontoonstuff has a great price on the helm but it is so bare
http://www.pontoonstuff.com/collections/premium-pontoon-boat-seats/products/large-pontoon-boat-console" rel="nofollow - http://www.pontoonstuff.com/collections/premium-pontoon-boat-seats/products/large-pontoon-boat-console      $249.99
I also found another one with the side door compartment that I like better 
http://veada.com/boat-consoles/plastic-boat-helm-cn200p-console.html" rel="nofollow - http://veada.com/boat-consoles/plastic-boat-helm-cn200p- http://veada.com/boat-consoles/plastic-boat-helm-cn200p-console.html" rel="nofollow - console.html  $345.00


-------------
Frank


Posted By: curtiscapk
Date Posted: 10/14/2014 at 2:17pm
Try this you missed the sale!



http://www.pontoonstuff.com/collections/clearance-discount-sale/products/large-pontoon-boat-console-2" rel="nofollow - http://www.pontoonstuff.com/collections/clearance-discount-sale/products/large-pontoon-boat-console-2

-------------
Craig n Paula
http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7781&title=the-floater-rebuild" rel="nofollow - THE FLOATER Rebuild
94 Party Barge 24' 115 merc
22mph
OP KS
Truman Lake


Posted By: p3cflyr
Date Posted: 10/14/2014 at 8:01pm
I'm curious why you like the Vaeda better? Probably misspelled that.


-------------
Mike

"Atta Boy" Award June 2011
1987 Lowes Fish and Fun 20ft
1999 Merc 50hp 4 strk big foot
Kirksville, Mo
P3C Orion Pilot
ASW Warfare Specialist


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/14/2014 at 10:32pm
I am not for any of them as I have never bought from anyone. I am looking for price and what I want the item to be like. As far as the helm, I want it to be sort of big like the new pontoons are but with cubby hole to put thing in plus I want cup holders. Mine  that I have right now has nothing and rotten wood.
I only put the links in the forum so someone might tell me a better place to go. I have only found a few place online to buy from and already people have told me other places to look for what I want. I would of never found the used pontoon toon site if someone did not post the link and I am grateful for the information.
I hope others add more links and information as to the better ways to do  what needs to be done.


-------------
Frank


Posted By: sceman
Date Posted: 10/15/2014 at 8:53am
http://www.pontoonstuff.com/collections/premium-pontoon-boat-seats/products/large-pontoon-boat-console" rel="nofollow - http://www.pontoonstuff.com/collections/premium-pontoon-boat-seats/products/large-pontoon-boat-console
They have it here and cheaper. Its the one I put in my boat and I love it. Plenty of storage underneath with room to install the hydralics, electronics, etc. 2 cup holders and its built sturdy enough you need no reinforcing for the steering. Just drill you holes and install.
 
 
 


-------------
2014 home-built 22' tritoon Solid Aluminum
Merc 150 4-stroke


Posted By: curtiscapk
Date Posted: 10/15/2014 at 9:09am
This is the floor kit I used. top of the line carpet! Check the rebuild thread in my Signature if you have the time...

It has everything you need.
Wood
joint tape
screws
adhesive
and carpet.

http://http://www.pontoonstuff.com/collections/pontoon-boat-carpet-flooring/products/copy-of-pontoon-decking-kit-w-cut-loop" rel="nofollow - http://www.pontoonstuff.com/collections/pontoon-boat-carpet-flooring/products/copy-of-pontoon-decking-kit-w-cut-loop

or just the wood.

http://www.pontoonstuff.com/collections/pontoon-boat-carpet-flooring/products/3-4-marine-grade-plywood" rel="nofollow - http://www.pontoonstuff.com/collections/pontoon-boat-carpet-flooring/products/3-4-marine-grade-plywood

remember free shipping on all!

-------------
Craig n Paula
http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7781&title=the-floater-rebuild" rel="nofollow - THE FLOATER Rebuild
94 Party Barge 24' 115 merc
22mph
OP KS
Truman Lake


Posted By: p3cflyr
Date Posted: 10/15/2014 at 9:59am
I used the deluxe console from PS which is the fitted out version of the one you saw.  Don't forget to figure free shipping on items that hsve it from PS.  Can make a difference in what you select.

-------------
Mike

"Atta Boy" Award June 2011
1987 Lowes Fish and Fun 20ft
1999 Merc 50hp 4 strk big foot
Kirksville, Mo
P3C Orion Pilot
ASW Warfare Specialist


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/15/2014 at 5:06pm
So from what I have learned about my floor is that it was redone with pressure treated wood as it would not of rotted the way it is now.
Alot of you said to go with 3/4 and not 1/2 so I am.
I found 3 places online that sell 3/4 marine plywood and for 6 sheets to get it to my door here was the prices.
$526 AB Grade $71 a sheet $100 shipping
$530 AB Grade $65 a sheet $140 shipping
$570 C   Grade $95 a sheet free shipping

I am still hoping someone tells me a better price but it looks like this is going to be the price for the floor repair.
So now onto the carpet and glue




-------------
Frank


Posted By: Barnmb7117
Date Posted: 10/15/2014 at 5:52pm
Frank
What state are you in?
 Also you want CCA plywood. There is AB marine plywood but it is untreated plywood. Most places don't stock CCA plywood did you check any marine dealers. Also DO NOT use the green treated plywood.
  Most Pontoon suppliers put everything on sale around Christmas when it is slow.


-------------
Mike
1993 Tracker fishing barge 21
2015 Evinrude pontoon series 90 hp
Summer - On the wolf River Weyauwega, WI
Winter- Chicago, IL


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/15/2014 at 11:25pm
I am in Johnson City Tennessee and I am looking at buying from 

everythingpontoon.com
although it does not say I would think it is but I will ask before I buy to make sure. 
I still have to get the money together so it will be first of the month anyways before I can buy


-------------
Frank


Posted By: Barnmb7117
Date Posted: 10/16/2014 at 1:14pm
For 570.00 you can get the plywood from PONTOONSTUFF but you must have a business address or Or know a business that will accept it for you. Or PICK UP at a fedX terminal

-------------
Mike
1993 Tracker fishing barge 21
2015 Evinrude pontoon series 90 hp
Summer - On the wolf River Weyauwega, WI
Winter- Chicago, IL


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/16/2014 at 7:28pm
That is to much trouble and on top of that I would be paying about $40 more for C Grade marine wood

-------------
Frank


Posted By: p3cflyr
Date Posted: 10/16/2014 at 9:40pm
If you have it shipped to you, regardless of where you purchase from, you will have to have a forklift capable of off loading the pallet of plywood.  if you find anyone who ships and unloads also for no extra fee, let us know!!

-------------
Mike

"Atta Boy" Award June 2011
1987 Lowes Fish and Fun 20ft
1999 Merc 50hp 4 strk big foot
Kirksville, Mo
P3C Orion Pilot
ASW Warfare Specialist


Posted By: yadnom
Date Posted: 10/17/2014 at 9:19am
old saying "you can buy once or buy it cheap twice"


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/17/2014 at 9:53pm
I had already talked to everythingpontoon and they know the address is my home and he did not say anything about needing a forklift or anything but I will contact him again and make sure.  It is only 6 boards at 44lb each so I can unload it myself. Maybe I am missing something so please tell me.

I got the railing off today but it was late so I will take some pictures in morning and post.  Then I plan on trying to get the skirt off around the outside of the flooring. All the screws are flat head and the nuts are rusted pretty good.
Oh yeah I did get a good measurement on the wood it is 3/4 and 24" center ribs.
Only the back of the railing had spacers under the railing, everything else was tight to the floor. Only a few bolts broke but I do not think they were the correct type.

I am ready to get this going but I also know that coming up with $500 for the wood is at least a month away. I did ask my oldest son to help  get this done.


-------------
Frank


Posted By: p3cflyr
Date Posted: 10/17/2014 at 10:35pm
Freight Co's normally haul items to docks which are equipped to off load their haul.   Usually plywood is put on pallets  and banded for hauling.  Most truckers do not want to wait, or may not be allowed to, for any un-banding and single sheet off loading by the purchaser.  That's why its common for the requirement for the shipment to go to a location that has forklift  capable of handling the load.  Maybe they operate differently.


-------------
Mike

"Atta Boy" Award June 2011
1987 Lowes Fish and Fun 20ft
1999 Merc 50hp 4 strk big foot
Kirksville, Mo
P3C Orion Pilot
ASW Warfare Specialist


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/18/2014 at 8:58am
I was checking out different places and came across this pontoon enclosure. I would really like someone to help me find something like this to add to my project. All I am finding so far is way to much.

http:// www.pontoonforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5922" rel="nofollow -  http://www.pontoonforums.com/viewtopic.php?f= http:// www.pontoonforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5922" rel="nofollow - 2&t=5922




-------------
Frank


Posted By: Barnmb7117
Date Posted: 10/18/2014 at 1:13pm
They are all custom to the pontoon. any canvas shop should be able to make one for your pontoon.

-------------
Mike
1993 Tracker fishing barge 21
2015 Evinrude pontoon series 90 hp
Summer - On the wolf River Weyauwega, WI
Winter- Chicago, IL


Posted By: SunBlocker
Date Posted: 10/18/2014 at 6:49pm
But note: custom enclosures made from quality materials are not inexpensive.

-------------
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/sunblocker-1992-party-cruiser_topic3192.html" rel="nofollow - The `Blocker Build


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/19/2014 at 12:11pm
Has anybody used this kind of decking Densilite TX Plastic Floor Sheets?

http://www.polyzone.com/products/plastic-sheets/densilite-tx-plastic-floor-sheet" rel="nofollow - http://www.polyzone.com/products/plastic-sheets/densilite-tx-plastic-floor-sheet

Some shared this with me said I should check this out because Marine plywood don't last a lifetime and this would. The had not used it but seen it on another forum.

I have not called them to see how much they are and what the weight per sheet is.


-------------
Frank


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/19/2014 at 12:50pm
Well I now know how much they weigh 
A 5X8 3/4 weighs 105lb
A 5X8 1/2 weighs 73lb
and that makes it to heavy to use


-------------
Frank


Posted By: SunBlocker
Date Posted: 10/19/2014 at 1:17pm
Honestly.... if you want a light, lasts forever deck go with aluminum.

Systems like Lockdry or AridDeck are pretty awesome.

-------------
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/sunblocker-1992-party-cruiser_topic3192.html" rel="nofollow - The `Blocker Build


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/19/2014 at 4:24pm
SunBlocker 
Can you share some links?

Also I am thinking of putting permanent gas tanks resting on the pontoons 3/4 up front under the floor between the supports where there is some space. I was looking to see if anybody has done this or not. Maybe there is a reason why nobody has done this. I have 2 spaces on each side so I was going to use the other 2 for small cubby holes as they are not that deep.
The goal is to move some weight up to the front so it not so heavy in the back. The transom support is deep enough to put my batteries under the floor.

Is there any reason I can not make below deck cubby holes between the ribs supports. Now I am not talking about deep one just maybe 6 inches deep  48X22X6 to keep them near or above the top of the pontoons.


-------------
Frank


Posted By: p3cflyr
Date Posted: 10/19/2014 at 7:39pm
Are you thinking of putting batteries in the transom well forward of the transom?  It will have water in it which would not be good.  As for gas tanks up front under the deck - what size, both gal and dimensions?  Put two full 10 gal each tanks under the front equals about 200 lbs or one less person up front.  And lots of people want to go up front.   Also need to consider how to get fuel into them.  And run a gas line from the front to the motor at rear (or 2 lines).  no access to gas tanks underway means no way to check for gas cap problems, etc.



-------------
Mike

"Atta Boy" Award June 2011
1987 Lowes Fish and Fun 20ft
1999 Merc 50hp 4 strk big foot
Kirksville, Mo
P3C Orion Pilot
ASW Warfare Specialist


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/19/2014 at 8:14pm
The Transom is 5ft long and angles up to the bottom of the floor. I am putting them about 1/2 way up with access thru the floor.They will be encased so they will stay in one place. I always carry 2 batteries. I don't think water will be a problem.
The gas tanks will be permanent and will have access panel thru the floor as well both will have gas gauge and vents. I am not sure yet where to put the filler at. I think they need to be close to the tanks as to not overfill them in the lines.
I plan on running the fuel lines down the channel of the pontoon  for easy repairs.
Each tank I want to be 6 Gals but right now I am finding 12 gal. Gasoline weighs 6.2lb per gal so that would be 75 lb on each side, but if I can get them to 6gal then it would only be 37 lb per side.


-------------
Frank


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/19/2014 at 8:40pm
here is the start before I start breaking it all down to the ribs. I had already took the bimini top off


-------------
Frank


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/19/2014 at 8:43pm
I have to say this helm was lucky it was still standing because when we started to remove it....it just fell apart


-------------
Frank


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/19/2014 at 8:50pm
So the railing came off pretty easy now to get the controls out of the way


-------------
Frank


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/19/2014 at 8:53pm
Got the carpet off but look at all the water still sitting on it
Got the carpet off pretty easy but seen all the water still on the deck. This must be the reasn it started to rot


-------------
Frank


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/19/2014 at 8:55pm
Got the first board off, this was the worst one of them all as half of it was rotten further than I had already knew. Glad I decided to start this.


-------------
Frank


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/19/2014 at 8:57pm
The second board was real easy. Silicon was put between the joints. Oh yeah there was my lovely wife checking out the progress I guess or was she thinking......will I ever see it back together LOL. Yes honey you will.   It will better slicker and stronger with some class to her when she is back on the water, you will see


-------------
Frank


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/19/2014 at 9:00pm
3rd board, these boards are coming off real easy. I thought they would be alot more stuck to the boat.


-------------
Frank


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/19/2014 at 9:03pm
4th board was in very good shape, I might use this one for some projects I think I have planned


-------------
Frank


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/19/2014 at 9:06pm
Well there it is...naked as a pontoon can get LOL. There was 5 1/2 inch overhang on the front. It was a true 20 ft no boards we cut. 


-------------
Frank


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/19/2014 at 9:21pm
Wow I did not think with all the wood off it would be so light on the front. I can pick up the front.
I will upload some picture of the places I am talking about putting the gas tanks and  the batteries.


-------------
Frank


Posted By: Barnmb7117
Date Posted: 10/19/2014 at 9:23pm
Great progress. Make sure it is squared up before you put the deck down.

-------------
Mike
1993 Tracker fishing barge 21
2015 Evinrude pontoon series 90 hp
Summer - On the wolf River Weyauwega, WI
Winter- Chicago, IL


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 10/19/2014 at 9:44pm
what do you mean square up

-------------
Frank


Posted By: yadnom
Date Posted: 10/20/2014 at 7:08am
measure diagonal,from corner to corner front to aft,,make sure both measurements are the same


Posted By: SunBlocker
Date Posted: 10/20/2014 at 8:44am
Originally posted by fmgarner fmgarner wrote:

SunBlocker 
Can you share some links?


My build thread has some information about the aluminum flooring, and toward the end you can see some posts regarding canvas enclosures:

http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=3192&KW=sunblocker&title=sunblocker-1992-party-cruiser" rel="nofollow - http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=3192&KW=sunblocker&title=sunblocker-1992-party-cruiser

The Lockdry website is here:

http://www.nexaninc.com/products/decking/lockdry-waterproof-decking" rel="nofollow - http://www.nexaninc.com/products/decking/lockdry-waterproof-decking

AridDeck here:

http://www.wahoodecks.com/ariddek/" rel="nofollow - http://www.wahoodecks.com/ariddek/


-------------
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/sunblocker-1992-party-cruiser_topic3192.html" rel="nofollow - The `Blocker Build


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 11/11/2014 at 11:49pm
I wanted to thank all that has offer their advise and support plus links that help me get to this point.

Jim Myers from Pontoonstuff.com contacted me and after a few emails 
back and forth, I will be buying all they can offer me from 
Pontoonstuff.com web site and pontoonfence.com their sister 
company. I am buying my 6 marine plywood from them and 20oz carpet (24ft) to start. 

Jim has hooked me up with James Morgan from pontoonstuff.com who will be working with me on my 24ft pontoon rebuild. I can not wait to get started and if all goes well in the next week or so, I will start with the flooring and carpet.

What change my mind was the.... "We want your business attitude".... from both Jim and James. I'd definitely got the feeling that I would be happy with the service and product.
I really like the feeling that they were willing to work with me on shipping and what I could spend at one time.

The 6 marine plywood boards are shipped on a 4 by 8 pallet so I do understand that I need to find a loading dock for them to send it to, so I am working on that right now and I think I have a place already.

I really did not realize what pontoonstuff.com had to offer til they started chatting with me and telling me what they could offer.

Well, more to come and oh yes more pictures of the rebuild of course.


-------------
Frank


Posted By: curtiscapk
Date Posted: 11/12/2014 at 2:47pm
Yep they are top notch! Good luck!

-------------
Craig n Paula
http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7781&title=the-floater-rebuild" rel="nofollow - THE FLOATER Rebuild
94 Party Barge 24' 115 merc
22mph
OP KS
Truman Lake


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 11/13/2014 at 9:53pm
Does anyone have some link for reasonable price low profile below deck gas tanks.
The size can not be more than  60"Lx 21"Wx5"D with a gas gauge and no more than 18gal.
I am not wanting a big gas tank.
I have looked online but not sure what else to google as I am sure there is something out there.
Right now I am looking for someone in my town to build me what I want but I am hoping that someone will give me some links.

this is the closes I had come to what I wanted

http://greatlakesskipper.com/lund-2069106-moeller-ft1923-br-crosslink-poly-19-gallon-63-3-4-x-16-x-5-inch-insulated-marine-boat-gas-fuel-tank


-------------
Frank


Posted By: p3cflyr
Date Posted: 11/13/2014 at 11:28pm
Aluminum or poly tank??  I can guess the size limitation but why the  capacity of 18 gal max?  I'll see if i can find anything but the material is important.  Wink

Just did some looking and the 5 inch max height is a problem for majority of aftermarket tanks.  Any flexibility there?


-------------
Mike

"Atta Boy" Award June 2011
1987 Lowes Fish and Fun 20ft
1999 Merc 50hp 4 strk big foot
Kirksville, Mo
P3C Orion Pilot
ASW Warfare Specialist


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 11/14/2014 at 7:17am
I am open to either 
as for the limit is a preference, I don't want alot of weight and gas on hand on the pontoon.
I know the 5"deep is the problem and that is also including any fitting.
This is why I had ask everyone to help me with some links that has the 5" deep.
I have a drawing to make it if I have to but I am sure it will cost.



-------------
Frank


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 11/18/2014 at 2:18pm


-------------
Frank


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 11/18/2014 at 2:19pm

So I went and talked to a welding shop about building me 
the under deck gas tank. The guy I had talked with help me
out alot as to what I really wanted so we came up with a 
aluminum 13 gal gas tank 30"LX21"WX5"D with 2 NPT pickup 1/2"
a vent and a drain plug. I did not know how I was going to make 
a reserve tank but that was so simple. All you do is run a tube 
to the bottom of the tank for the reserve and the second one you 
run a tube an inch from the bottom of the tank which we figure 
will give me about 2 1/2 gal on reserve and for my pontoon that 
should get me to shore to get more gas. I wanted a drain plug so 
I could drain any water or just empty the tank. So a gallon a gas 
is about 6.3 pound so a full 13 gal will weigh about 82 pounds 
and I am placing the tank about 10ft from the back in between the 
supports and will be bolted to the supports.
Still have more planning to do once I get the tank like how and 
where I am going to fill the tank. The fuel lines will run down 
the log to the back and then attach with quick connect like you 
use for a portable tank which I will have 2 of them one for main 
and the other for reserve.
So right now I am waiting on the price to make the tank
 



-------------
Frank


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 11/22/2014 at 5:15pm
While waiting on the gas tank, I went ahead and worked on extending
the back on one side to see how it will hold up and I think it will 
hold but it does bend a little. What I did was go to Home Depot and bought 
2 1-1/4X4' 1/8" thick angle Iron, they were only $10.57 each.

I also went to Walmart and bought one set of fog lights for $18 and some trailer wire to wire them up. I'd used those little blue wire clips that all you have to do is put it on the main wire and slide the wire from the light into the side and clip, then I just tape them up so they might stay dry. 

Will test the lights tonight to see how bright they may be.....not really sure how good they will be out of the water but still will try them out. My plan is to have 3 lights on each side under the deck to light up the water without blinding my sight.
I am going to name the power switch Aqua lights since I plan on having about 8 toggle switches with one still open. 
All my switches will be hooked thru the main key switch that way if I forget to turn one off then they won't kill the battery.


-------------
Frank


Posted By: SunBlocker
Date Posted: 11/22/2014 at 7:00pm
Sorry if this reply sounds a bit harsh, but it sounds like you are on the verge of making some mistakes that will probably cause you some grief down the road.

I hope you meant "angle aluminum" and not "angle iron"... even with paint, you just don't want to use angle iron on your boat.. anywhere.

Personally I went through a lot of inexpensive dock and fog lights before I finally threw int he towel and got some "good" LED marine units.  The inexpensive units just don't hold up in the marine environment, and incandescent style lamps use a heck of a lot of current/power.  Remember, if you are planning on putting WHITE lights on the side of your boat you can ONLY use them when you are stopped and at anchor (and even then, it's not 100% legal).  You absolutely cannot use white side lamps when underway.

Insulation displacing splice/tap clips are a really bad idea in marine environments... even when wrapped with tape.  They will fail... guaranteed.

Most ignition/accessory switches are only good for about 10 amps.. 20 amps maybe.  It's not a good idea to have a bunch of toggle switches running off of those contacts without a high current isolation relay.  You can easily fry the ignition switch.  Be careful and add up the number of amps that each circuit will be handling.  It can add up really fast, especially if you are using incandescent lamps. 

And earlier in this thread you mentioned the possibility of putting an inverter on the boat to run 115VAC items.  Don't do it.  Period.  Yes.. I have an inverter on my boat, and I have a bunch of 115VAC items running off of it.  But I have a "houseboat" with a dry cabin and I know what I am doing.  There are multiple layers of GFCI protection and the bonding/grounding has been done VERY carefully.  115VAC on a semi-open boat is a really good way to kill somebody.  Don't even put a small Honda-ish generator on there.


-------------
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/sunblocker-1992-party-cruiser_topic3192.html" rel="nofollow - The `Blocker Build


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 11/22/2014 at 7:56pm

Sunblocker

Yours and anybody else opinion is truly welcome and I really appreciated it. I did look at aluminum as that was what I really wanted to use but 
I could not find any stringers online and Home Depot had aluminum but they were weak and thin so I knew they would not hold up. If you have a link for stringer please share. My stringer are metal on my pontoon

I was told that my boat motor can run about 10 amps and that is it. It was never my plan to run everything all at once plus I will have 2 batteries, 1 primary and 1 backup not connected. The 12volt inverter is not running anything and would only be used when we are ashore and camping on the boat and a completely seperate battery #3, I know how they eat the battery life quick as I have found this out the hard way when I had to sit all day while my solar cell charge my battery. That was when I'd started carrying 2 batteries and switch them each morning
when we are out camping.

The lights are under the boat deck and only used when near shore to hopefully light up the water so I can see rocks and such. Docking lights or spot lights only hinder your night vision and are only good for looking for land at a slow speed.

The lights I am putting on my boat are like dome lights and may be used while I am not under way to see on deck (fishing and such). My side lights were for decoration but if that is not legal then I will not put them on.

Anytime I am underway I only have Nav lights on, driving at night is not for me on a boat. I am never to far from where we are camping for the night.
We tried spending the night on the boat and we liked it alot better than setting up camp on land so we will just build a fire on land in front of the boat.

Oh yeah, I wish I had a house boat but I have no place to morn it.
One of the reasons I am build a type of slide out roof to cover the front for more room at night.

I got an ideal of what I am going to make with keeping in mind about weight. My boat weight limit is 3100 from what I had found out.


-------------
Frank


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 11/22/2014 at 8:08pm
Here are what I am planning for switches
Switches needed
1) AQUA LIGHTS under boat 
2) DOME LIGHTS 
3) FLOOD LIGHTS for docking
4) CHARGING BATTERIES SWITCH
5) 120VDC INVERTER
6) Fresh water pump
7) Floor lights
8) DASH LIGHTS can also hook thru NAV lights (open)


-------------
Frank


Posted By: SunBlocker
Date Posted: 11/23/2014 at 1:09am
When you are running circuits off of the accessory or ignition contacts on the key switch they are running off of the starter battery.  Alternator output capability has nothing to do with it.  Sooo....  don't run your toggle switches off of the ignition switch.  You will ruin the switch.

I don't know what the #4 "Charging batteries switch" is for.

Looks like you have your heart set on hard-wiring your inverter into your boat.  Like I have already mentioned, that's a terrible and dangerous idea.  Also, anything but the tiniest inverter will draw a lot of current off of the 12VDC side (some, like mine, draw 100's of amps).  Probably not going to be able to run it directly off of a dash toggle switch (as the primary voltage source).  Some units (like mine) have a low current circuit that is only used to "enable" the unit.  Those circuits can be run off of a dash toggle no problem (since the inverter gets its power from larger cables that run directly to the battery bank).  

I strongly suggest that you run LED illumination wherever you can.  With only 10A available from your engine alternator for recharging the batteries....  you really don't want to be drawing a lot of current out of your banks.  It will take forever to recharge the systems if you only have the engine for replenishing.  Different story if you also have a shore power rig for running battery chargers off of 115VAC.  But once again, if you are going to introduce 115VAC to your boat you'd better know what you're doing since it can easily become a lethal combination.  Water and AC power don't mix.


-------------
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/sunblocker-1992-party-cruiser_topic3192.html" rel="nofollow - The `Blocker Build


Posted By: fishandtube
Date Posted: 11/23/2014 at 6:49am
I must agree with SunBlocker,Don't try running all that stuff off of your ignition switch. if you are that worried about draining your batteries i would suggest that you use a battery disconnect switch and make turning it off the last thing you do before leaving the boat.If you have your heart set on using your ignition switch for this you will need several relays in your wiring system.

Do NOT hard wire a inverter in,it can kill easily. Make no mistake if you are wet in a wet environment 12 volts can hurt,not likely to kill but it makes it where it don't take long to look at. unless running an a/c unit or something like it,it's not worth the risk as most things are made in a 12v version.IMO    

-------------
If it ain;t broke, it ain;t ours!


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 11/23/2014 at 8:31am
Sunblocker

So are you suggesting that I run a second hard wire source to the helm so I am not going thru the key switch? The inverter is a small one 300watt and I was going to use a 3rd battery, the inverter came with a cigarette lighter plug and hard wire set and that is where I had came up with the hard wire idea, so no one had to hold the unit to plug something in. My son told me that they make and sell a switch to change one power to another and that is what #4 is.
My boat will be for pleasure and just fun things not really to live on. I know water and electric don't mix. The LED I will look into and
see what is out there, I thought they might get wet and ruin the circuit board where the other type is just clean the contacts and they work again.



-------------
Frank


Posted By: SunBlocker
Date Posted: 11/23/2014 at 9:23am
The "ideal and preferred" setup is to use a second battery for accessories (stereo, lights, pumps, etc..) and ONLY use the starting battery for starting the engine.  That way, if you should happen to drain the second (house) battery accidentally you can still start the engine.

If you're not going to use that method, tap the voltage from the starter battery BEFORE the ignition switch contacts (usually the starter battery power wire that comes to the helm is decent size and can handle some current).  The point being... the actual switch contacts in the keyswitch aren't designed to handle a lot of current.  If your particular harness doesn't already have a nice large conductor coming from the starting battery to the helm then yes, you would have to run an additional wire.

A true 300W inverter can draw well over 30A from the 12VDC side at full load.... probably closer to 50A.  WAY too much current for the contacts in the keyswitch.. and WAY too much current for small wiring and the typical panel toggle switch.

If your son is talking about a "battery selector switch"... that's a BIG rotary switch with high power contacts.  Typically about 4" in diameter... not something that you are going to mount on a switch panel on your helm.

You might want to start by making a quick schematic/sketch of what you ultimately want to do and how you think you'll have it configured.  It's easier to make intelligent comments with that document in front of us.


-------------
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/sunblocker-1992-party-cruiser_topic3192.html" rel="nofollow - The `Blocker Build


Posted By: yadnom
Date Posted: 11/23/2014 at 10:35am
Sunblocker is only trying to help,,from his post n build ,I value what he says on this forum


Posted By: yadnom
Date Posted: 11/23/2014 at 10:41am
I also once has the idea of an inverter installation to my build,,but chose not to,,,mine wasn't 400watt,,its 1500 lol,,,I read and try to learn from others mistakes,rather than have to learn the lessons the hard way,,,,,sunblocker,,,,beautiful toon you have


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 11/23/2014 at 12:15pm
I guess this is what I was thinking

http:// http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/dualBattery.html" rel="nofollow - continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/dualBattery.html


-------------
Frank


Posted By: SunBlocker
Date Posted: 11/23/2014 at 12:34pm
Originally posted by fmgarner fmgarner wrote:


I guess this is what I was thinking

http:// http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/dualBattery.html" rel="nofollow - continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/dualBattery.html




Those are the battery switches I was talking about. Typically about 4" in diameter with ~4ga or larger cabling. Usually mounted by the batteries, virtually never mounted on the helm due to voltage loss over the long cabling runs.

-------------
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/sunblocker-1992-party-cruiser_topic3192.html" rel="nofollow - The `Blocker Build


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 11/23/2014 at 12:36pm
so will this work for what I am wanting to do?



-------------
Frank


Posted By: SunBlocker
Date Posted: 11/23/2014 at 12:39pm
I started with a 1500W inverter on the 'Blocker. Then it was 1800.... and now 2000. I sometimes play with the idea of going to 3000, but don't really need it.

Inverters on boats are nice to have, but like I mentioned earlier, you REALLY need to know what you're doing. It's akin to throwing a toaster into the bathtub.

-------------
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/sunblocker-1992-party-cruiser_topic3192.html" rel="nofollow - The `Blocker Build


Posted By: SunBlocker
Date Posted: 11/23/2014 at 12:46pm
Originally posted by fmgarner fmgarner wrote:


so will this work for what I am wanting to do?




No, not really. None of those diagrams are really correct for your application.

You want a configuration that has a "starter" battery ( for starting only) and a "house" battery for other loads.

For that configuration I personally don't like using the big manual switches. Too easy to screw up and leave them in the wrong position. I much prefer an automatic combiner relay (VSR) and that's what I use on my boats.

-------------
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/sunblocker-1992-party-cruiser_topic3192.html" rel="nofollow - The `Blocker Build


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 11/23/2014 at 1:08pm
I am cheap but not trying to hurt myself or my family, so how much for what you are talking about.
What I did in the past was just unhook batteries and change them out. This is what I am trying to change but I also want to find a way to charge the 3rd battery without swapping batteries around all the time.
I only carry the 2nd battery for backup and never had to use it as an emergency  after I had learned about making sure everything was turned off before getting off the boat for the night. My son has use the main battery for the inverter one night and drained the battery so that was why we had to sit all day while the sun charge the battery. This was when I got the 2nd battery. When my boat motor broke down I had used up both batteries on my trolling motor to get back to dock, I was glad to have 2 batteries. The water current was very strong so I had to use all 22lb thrust to push and took me over 2 hours to get there.
LOL what fun that was and on top of being a little upset that I had broke down on the water and no one offer to help me back to shore. I did call the marina but they wanted to charge me to come get me.
I know that I've help a few people on the lake  that were broke down. I alway thought that was the rule of the water as it is not like you are broke down on the side of the road where you can walk.


-------------
Frank


Posted By: SunBlocker
Date Posted: 11/23/2014 at 1:45pm
Your alternator output is pretty low (10A) so you can get away with using a relatively small VSR like the Blue Sea 7601..... about $50. Not a big price difference from one of those large battery selector switches.... and much more useful.

-------------
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/sunblocker-1992-party-cruiser_topic3192.html" rel="nofollow - The `Blocker Build


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 11/27/2014 at 7:24pm
So I got the price for my gas tank to be made $500, I did tell the guy I was looking around $250 but for me I was willing to go to $300.Not sure what I am going to do yet but I do not plan on paying $500 when I can buy alot bigger tank online for under $300. I think I might look into buying the bigger tank online and seeing how much to reduce the 7" depth to 5" with the indent I need to keep it under 5".
If anybody has a place I can get the picture I had post....please let me know.


-------------
Frank


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 01/06/2015 at 7:47pm
So I found another place to get my gas tank made
for $385 and should be made by first of the month
I went ahead and got it order so time to get things in high gear as March is coming to fast

carr enterprises custom metal fabrication
4780 96th St North
St. Petersburg, FL 33708
727-688-0645
http://www.mycarrenterprise.com/" rel="nofollow - Carr Enterprises


-------------
Frank


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 01/31/2015 at 4:19pm
Well got my gas tank today from 
carr enterprises custom metal fabrication
4780 96th St North
St. Petersburg, FL 33708
727-688-0645
http://www.mycarrenterprise.com/" rel="nofollow - Carr Enterprises

They did an awesome job and it fits just the way I planned it 


-------------
Frank


Posted By: SunBlocker
Date Posted: 01/31/2015 at 6:00pm
Are you going to spin it around so that you can get it full?  As shown, you'll probably end up with a lot of lost capacity due to a big air gap/bubble toward the bow.

-------------
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/sunblocker-1992-party-cruiser_topic3192.html" rel="nofollow - The `Blocker Build


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 01/31/2015 at 7:19pm
The way it is sitting was the way I had planned it. You really think I will get to much air from it sitting this way? I had planned on running the lines down the starboard tube. I wanted the fill spout on the starboard side for easy filling.
I will try turning it around and seeing what it looks like.



-------------
Frank


Posted By: SunBlocker
Date Posted: 01/31/2015 at 8:32pm
Yeah, I think you'll lose a fair amount of capacity.

The vent really needs to be at just about the highest point on the tank, and the way that you have it situated.... assuming you have the typical bow rise.... I'm willing to guess that you'll lose ~20% of your overall capacity.


-------------
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/sunblocker-1992-party-cruiser_topic3192.html" rel="nofollow - The `Blocker Build


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 01/31/2015 at 9:55pm
I had tried turning it around but if the short side is to the front then I would not get the full use of the reserve side. When the pontoon is under way the front is higher than the back so all the gas would sit at the very back and I would not get any gas.
When I get it back in the water I will see how much of the 13 gal I get to put in. As long as I can get 12 gal I will be happy. I'd cut the main to 1/2 inch from the bottom of the  tank and left the reserve right at the bottom.

This is my first special made tank so I am not sure how good I did but as far as I know no one else has a tank like this and if they do then I would like to ask them how it is doing. I did think of putting a drain in the bottom but I was told I could not.

Still have to run the lines to the back and get a filler hose and gas cap. I am thinking that I will have to run the filler outside the fencing somehow. What concerns me is any vapor that may be present that could become apparent on the middle of the deck. I am trying to think how to put it to the back of the boat somehow. The vent is at the same level as the filler intake.


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Frank


Posted By: grouser
Date Posted: 02/01/2015 at 2:40am
He's right,,, with the bow up higher then the stern you are gonna have troubles getting a full tank with it sitting that way. What will it hurt to turn it and fill from the port side? That would put the filler on the high side of things,,,,

edited; you might be able to hang the tank in the same orientation and fix your problem by building brackets that level the tank when your boat is in the water (hang the front lower than it is right now)


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Life is good,,,love your kids,,,be kind and Honorable.
2001 Sun Tracker 30 Party Hut
130hp Mercrusier I/O


Posted By: Barnmb7117
Date Posted: 02/01/2015 at 2:50am
How does the deck get attached to the C channels in the postition they are in?



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Mike
1993 Tracker fishing barge 21
2015 Evinrude pontoon series 90 hp
Summer - On the wolf River Weyauwega, WI
Winter- Chicago, IL


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 02/01/2015 at 1:27pm
Originally posted by grouser grouser wrote:

He's right,,, with the bow up higher then the stern you are gonna have troubles getting a full tank with it sitting that way. What will it hurt to turn it and fill from the port side? That would put the filler on the high side of things,,,,

edited; you might be able to hang the tank in the same orientation and fix your problem by building brackets that level the tank when your boat is in the water (hang the front lower than it is right now)

Putting the filler to the bow may give me more gas gallons in the tank but both fuel pickups are also right there so I will get less out of the tank as it starts to get low.

What I am going to try is putting a spacer on the front bolts to off level the tank. This should resolve the problem I hope. 

I also see a flaw in my design that the fuel gauge is above the C channel so I have to lower it so it will not be up against the under side of the floor.


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Frank


Posted By: fmgarner
Date Posted: 02/01/2015 at 1:32pm
Originally posted by Barnmb7117 Barnmb7117 wrote:

How does the deck get attached to the C channels in the postition they are in?

They are bolted thru the floor top with 2 1/2 bolts. This was the way it was when I took the old floor off.


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Frank



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