Pontoon Forum Homepage
Forum Home Forum Home > Show Off Your Pontoon Boat > Pontoon Boat Rebuild Projects
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - peppyjd 1985 Harris Sunliner Rebuild DONE
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Register Register  Login Login

peppyjd 1985 Harris Sunliner Rebuild DONE

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  123 4>
Author
Message
peppyjd View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member
Avatar
Excellent Member Of The Month Club 04/09

Joined: 08/31/2008
Location: Charlottesville
Status: Offline
Points: 466
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peppyjd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: peppyjd 1985 Harris Sunliner Rebuild DONE
    Posted: 01/03/2009 at 6:31pm

Ok...since I have actually started making headway with this pontoon rebuild, I am going to post some pics.  This summer I bought a 1985 Harris Sunliner, with a 70 hp Johnson.  The trailer, a 1990 Hoosier scissor style, was included.  I am not sure why the previous owner was selling the boat, but her advertised price was $2800 and we got her down to $1400 for the whole thing. 

The owner and her friend were extremely helpful in going over the boat in detail.  She told me in advance that the trim/tilt motor was "burned out" and needed to be replaced.  Rick (Rickdb1) was very helpful in answering a question I posted about getting a replacement motor.  I was able to purchase a replacement motor, and the Johnson Service manual ($8...thank you Ebay) shows in gory detail how to take off the old trim tilt motor (in particular get to the 3rd hidden screw holding the thing on) and put on a new one.  When I do that part, I will post pics and a description of the procedure.

All right, so I like to kayak, and fish, and go out on friends" boats...but I have never owned one and didn"t even have the slightest clue how to start the engine or put gas in it when I got it.  I have learned a lot since August!  We had it out 3 times since, and with much relief, the engine runs, the boat floats, and my friends and extended family have had a blast. 

As you can see in the pictures, the previous owner riveted the wavy type of vinyl roofing material to the fence panels to give the boat a cleaner look.  The logs were also spray painted with silver aluminum paint to make them look cleaner at the time.  The carpet, plain old outdoor carpet, was ripped and seperating from the deck.  The seats, while extremely dirty, were in fairly decent shape, the vinyl on one seat has started to rip and crack.  I have since learned that there is a leak in the logs as I have siphoned a bit of water out after each trip and the water line on the logs indicates that it is sitting low in the stern.  The seats cleaned up considerably using the Mr.Clean magic eraser. 






***put spacing in one of the photo's***



Edited by Wildcat Dude
Jenn
Charlottesville, VA
85 Harris Sunliner 24ft
85 Johnson 70 hp
Kayak: Tarpon 160i
Back to Top
peppyjd View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member
Avatar
Excellent Member Of The Month Club 04/09

Joined: 08/31/2008
Location: Charlottesville
Status: Offline
Points: 466
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peppyjd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/03/2009 at 6:43pm

My first job was removing the siding from the panel, so I could see what kind of shape the panels were in.  I had already planned on and purchased the vinyl coil panel that Pontoonstuff.com sells.  Every thing is trial and error, and I had to do an internet search just to figure out how to remove the rivets!  I drilled them out with a 1/8" drill bit (stuck the bit in the side of the rivet with the hole) and the drill just destroyed the rivet and it popped right off and and without any damage to the panel. 







So, here"s the original panelling.  There are some significant dents in the panelling, but it is going to be covered with the replacement vinyl siding.  There are also some dents in the end caps on the logs, and I am wondering if they might pop out when I get to the point where I pressurize the logs to find the leaks.  I have a welder friend who will come over to patch up the holes, and I think at the same time I am going to ask her to weld in some drains on the bottom of the logs as I have seen others do in previous posts.

***added spacing to one of the photos***



Edited by Wildcat Dude
Jenn
Charlottesville, VA
85 Harris Sunliner 24ft
85 Johnson 70 hp
Kayak: Tarpon 160i
Back to Top
Guests View Drop Down
Guest Group
Guest Group

Guest
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/03/2009 at 7:10pm
Good job Jenn and it looks so much better without that wavy stuff on there. So are you thinking of taking off the hard top and putting on a 10ft bimini? It"ll lighten up the weight some. Say, what"s the length of that boat?
Back to Top
peppyjd View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member
Avatar
Excellent Member Of The Month Club 04/09

Joined: 08/31/2008
Location: Charlottesville
Status: Offline
Points: 466
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peppyjd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/03/2009 at 7:16pm
Last weekend I removed the fence from the deck.  Where the fence was bolted to another piece of fence, it was easy to remove the bolt with a socket wrench and large screwdriver.  But don"t let the fact that the fence is simply bolted to the deck, trim, and crossbars imply that it could be simply taken off.  The bolts were corroded to the point where on some bolts it looked as if the bolt and nut had melded into a single unit.  Liberal amounts of WD-40 did not help, penetrating oil did not help, elbow grease was getting nowhere, and I don"t own an impact wrench.  I do however have a reciprocating saw and boy was that rewarding!  I gently pried up the fence from the trim (holding my breath the first time because I did"t want to bend or dent the fence) enough so that I could slip the blade of saw between the fence and trim,  and cut the bolt. The bolts then fell right out. 








 
Jenn
Charlottesville, VA
85 Harris Sunliner 24ft
85 Johnson 70 hp
Kayak: Tarpon 160i
Back to Top
Guests View Drop Down
Guest Group
Guest Group

Guest
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/03/2009 at 7:30pm
Wow, you are moving right along. Let me know when you get to replacing that trim motor and I should be able to walk you right through it if you need help. Keep up the good work and pics are appreciated..
Back to Top
peppyjd View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member
Avatar
Excellent Member Of The Month Club 04/09

Joined: 08/31/2008
Location: Charlottesville
Status: Offline
Points: 466
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peppyjd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/03/2009 at 7:59pm
Today my friend Mary and I started removing the decking.  It was going exceptionally smoothly until the jigsaw broke.  I ran down to the hardware stor, and got another one, but when I got it home, it was defective (bummer....I had an hour of light left).  Went back to the hardware store and exchanged it.  Hopefully it will not rain all day tomorrow and I can get the rest of the deck off. 

I sawed down the width of the boat, just in front of each crossbeam.  The wood was so rotted that it could be pried up and off of the crossbars.  Of course the deck screws are also corroded.  They look like they are going to be a challenge to get out of the crossbar, but I am going to try cutting the head of the screw off with either the reciprocating saw or an angle grinder. 






Mary is admiring her work.



As you may be able to see in the image above, where two pieces of plywood abutt, their are staples across the joint.  There was also thick gummy black stuff on the crossbeam sealing the joint.  Personally I am going to avoid the staples when I put the deck back down, but I am wondering about sealing the joint with something?  I see Pontoonstuff sells a joint tape.  Also, the aluminum under the joint tape is pristeen and shiny!  It gives me hope that the logs can be stripped of the aluminum paint and restored to a brilliant shine.  I ordered an industrial but environmentally friendly paint stripper called RemovAll 220 (Napier Environmental) for the paint.  I don"t know if this would be useful for anyone trying to remove anti-fouling paint.  Anyway, it will hopefully arrive by next weekend.


Edited by peppyjd
Jenn
Charlottesville, VA
85 Harris Sunliner 24ft
85 Johnson 70 hp
Kayak: Tarpon 160i
Back to Top
Guests View Drop Down
Guest Group
Guest Group

Guest
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/03/2009 at 8:46pm
Did you get the redeck kit from PontoonStuff? If not you"re going to need some decking hardware. I"d also remove all the bolts and put in new bolts to the frames (stainless steel), which comes with the redeck kit from PontoonStuff. What is the condition of the bolts that connect the cross members with the frame members? If any sign of corrosion, rust, replace them before you put the deck on and don"t forget to square it before you put the first piece of decking on. Sure hope you"re not going to use pressure treated plywood from a lumber store, you"ll be disappointed in 2-3 years (not to mention the corrosion effect will get worse)
Back to Top
peppyjd View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member
Avatar
Excellent Member Of The Month Club 04/09

Joined: 08/31/2008
Location: Charlottesville
Status: Offline
Points: 466
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peppyjd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/03/2009 at 9:19pm
Hey Charles....I ordered new SS deck screws, fence bolts and fence risers from PontoonStuff.  I also ordered the blue panel striping, as well as the vinyl coil (panel) from them.  Unfortunately they are not currently carrying marine grade vinyl flooring, and after checking out pontoons with the carpet vs. vinyl, I was sold on the vinyl.  It seems very easy to keep clean and it will hopefully prolong the life of the new new deck .  I am definitely going with marine grade/treated plywood. 

The original plan was to keep the seating for another year, but with all the work being done, the seats are just going to look shabby.  Right now, PontoonStuff has a good deal on a seating group, listed on Ebay, so I will be getting some new seats from them as well.

I will have to check out the bolts between the crossmembers and frame members.  If its like anything else, I am sure they are rusty.  I am not familiar with how, or what, I should make square before the deck goes on, though I did see it mentioned in another post. 

So, the boat is 24".  The top is canvas.  Probably next summer I will replace the top with a bimini.

I have been polishing the fence, nice because it"s an inside job, and it is cleaning up well.  Here is a polished vs. not yet cleaned up piece.



My method has been to put some Gladiator Aluminum and Chrome Cleaner on, and rub it in with coarse steel wool.  Let it dry them wipe it off.  Then the process is repeated....more aluminum cleaner and this time rub liberally with fine #0000 steel wool.  Let dry and buff off with clean fine steel wool.  I will eventually get some sharkhide on it before it goes back on the boat.  It"s tedious, but can be done in front of the TV and it will be a long time until spring.
Jenn
Charlottesville, VA
85 Harris Sunliner 24ft
85 Johnson 70 hp
Kayak: Tarpon 160i
Back to Top
Guests View Drop Down
Guest Group
Guest Group

Guest
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/03/2009 at 9:53pm
Robbie (scbadiver) showed me the method. With a helper, measure the tip of your frame to the to the opposite end of the other frame (making an X pattern), if the two measurements are not within say 1/8th to 1/16ths of an inch, you"ll need to push on one toon in one direction and the other toon in the opposite direction and keep remeasuring until you"re within your limits. Screw down the 1st floor panel and remeasure the end of each panel as you go (still measuring across each end) until the panels measure very closely, then you can go back and finish putting the rest of the screws in. We used a plastic mallet to tap each panel butting up to the next one and so on (to get it good and tight before screwing it into place). That way your whole floor is square and so will your toons. They should still measure the same (or within the tolerance as close to even as possible) from the tip of one floor square to the opposite end floor square. Robbie, Rick, or anyone else, did I explain it well enough?
Back to Top
Guests View Drop Down
Guest Group
Guest Group

Guest
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/03/2009 at 10:26pm

Yep, just cross corner it and you"ll be fine..

 



Edited by rickdb1
Back to Top
lindaslounge View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member
Avatar
Excellent Member Of The Month Club 01/09

Joined: 09/20/2008
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 227
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lindaslounge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/06/2009 at 10:28pm
For some reason my computer is not showing the pics of the rebuild, I am not sure where you are with removing the old deck boards,  Jeff took a drill and drilled holes all around the head of the screws like a perforated line.  He lifted the boards right off the screws.  Then he took vise grips and twisted the screws out of the cross members.
Jeff & Linda
'91 Suntracker Party Hut 30 DL
Evinrude 115 hp 2 cycle
2006 HD Roadking
"AttaGirl" Award for December 2008
Back to Top
Guests View Drop Down
Guest Group
Guest Group

Guest
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/06/2009 at 10:50pm

 

Take a look here for the solution to seeing the pics..

http://www.pontoonstuff.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2273&a mp;a mp;get=last#22964



Edited by rickdb1
Back to Top
peppyjd View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member
Avatar
Excellent Member Of The Month Club 04/09

Joined: 08/31/2008
Location: Charlottesville
Status: Offline
Points: 466
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peppyjd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/07/2009 at 10:58am

The deck was so rotted that as soon as I made a cut across the width of the boat, I could pop the plywood easily off the deck screw, leaving the rusted screw behind in the crossbeam.  I cut off the heads off with the Sawzall, but they were so corroded that trying to twist them out with vice grips, and a great deal of effort, only worked for about 25% of the screws.  For the rest, I used a titanium bit that was smaller than the width of the screw, and drilled a hole down through the screw (starting where the head used to be)  and down the length of the screw just where it passed through the crossbeam.  That weakened the screw enough that I was then able to knock it out with a hammer. Yay!  That latter method was faster and required less effort than using the vice grip even on the screws I could twist out. 

I"ll have to order some of that tar tape from pontoon stuff....

 

Jenn
Charlottesville, VA
85 Harris Sunliner 24ft
85 Johnson 70 hp
Kayak: Tarpon 160i
Back to Top
peppyjd View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member
Avatar
Excellent Member Of The Month Club 04/09

Joined: 08/31/2008
Location: Charlottesville
Status: Offline
Points: 466
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peppyjd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/13/2009 at 9:43pm
Bowtie---

How exciting that someone else has the same boat!  I think that the sundeck was added on at a later time because the bolts are in much better shape (they could actually be removed by the normal screwdriver method).  I would love to see before pics and updated pics of your boat when you get them uploaded---where is your rebuild thread?  What are you doing with your top---are you going to replace it or stick with the original??

....Found your post- its so cool to see the same boat!  I think your boat's fence is in better shape.  Your logs look awesome...hopefully mine will be that shiny someday!  I googled Coopers Aluminum polish, but didn't have much luck finding it.  Where did you get it from?



Edited by peppyjd
Jenn
Charlottesville, VA
85 Harris Sunliner 24ft
85 Johnson 70 hp
Kayak: Tarpon 160i
Back to Top
peppyjd View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member
Avatar
Excellent Member Of The Month Club 04/09

Joined: 08/31/2008
Location: Charlottesville
Status: Offline
Points: 466
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peppyjd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/14/2009 at 12:13pm
Rodney

The wavy stuff is interesting and I am glad its off!  I see you have a Harris too---do you have any pics posted of your rebuild?

Jenn
Charlottesville, VA
85 Harris Sunliner 24ft
85 Johnson 70 hp
Kayak: Tarpon 160i
Back to Top
Guests View Drop Down
Guest Group
Guest Group

Guest
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/14/2009 at 4:16pm
Can"t think of any reason you couldn"t use the same holes with the new material. Just make sure to use the proper size rivets and it should work out fine..
Back to Top
peppyjd View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member
Avatar
Excellent Member Of The Month Club 04/09

Joined: 08/31/2008
Location: Charlottesville
Status: Offline
Points: 466
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peppyjd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/14/2009 at 8:01pm
Hi Eaglase---I have seen earlier posts about using a roller to paint the panels with, it seems like a pretty easy job.  It did seems that from some of the posts that it would then be hard to apply striping/decals to the panels if you had textured aluminum (rather than a smooth surface).  I was able to find rivets painted white elsewhere online, and I think they will blend in well with the white panel from pontoonstuff.com.
Jenn
Charlottesville, VA
85 Harris Sunliner 24ft
85 Johnson 70 hp
Kayak: Tarpon 160i
Back to Top
peppyjd View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member
Avatar
Excellent Member Of The Month Club 04/09

Joined: 08/31/2008
Location: Charlottesville
Status: Offline
Points: 466
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peppyjd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/12/2009 at 10:30pm

So Geez, I"ve been eating, sleeping, and living pontoon rebuild but haven"t posted anything in a long time.  I guess since I"ve last posted, I have struggled with getting the lower unit off.  I have given up and will take it to the mechanic.  So while it"s there I guess I"ll get them to change the water pump, steering cable, and trim tilt motor (even though I already have the parts, I"ve decided to farm out the labor to leave more time for renovating).  I"ve been working on the console and dash, water pressure guage install, fence rail stripping an polishing, locating contraband a/c coil cleaner, deckboard, and finally the getting to logs themselves (started this weekend). I really do have ugly logs only a mother could love.  No wonder the previous owner painted them. 



That there lovely waterline is right over the aluminum/silver paint.  I have the extra special chore of stripping paint in order to restore the logs.  However, the paint stripper doesn"t work through the water line, so the waterline HAS to be removed.  So finally, after calling about 10 places, I found ONE that would sell me the coil cleaner, but it was on back order.  Had to wait a couple of weeks.  I ended up using a 2:1 ratio of cleaner to water.  I had eye protection, chemical resistant gloves....the works to ward off my acid phobia.  It took about 6 hours to get half of the pontoon waterline off.  At first I used 3:1, then less diluted at 2:1.  They were really bad.  I had to go over the same area at least 3 times, and do a lot of scrubbing.  This may be due to chemically being over paint versus an bare aluminum substrate, but I don"t know.  They do NOT look pretty lol.  I have definitely decided to paint anything below the waterline. Here"s a pic of the logs "cleaned up" and sans waterline...the blue tape denotes where I am going to strip paint and keep bare aluminum (top) and re-aply bottom paint.





Here is a little taste of real aluminum underneath the lovely paint.  It kept me going. 


The paint remover I got is AWESOME and worth every penny.  It"s called REMOVALL 220.  Its an industrial stripper that strips about any paint from metal.  It is non-toxic, non-corrosive to people (just paint and plastic) and works without scrubbing.  I painted it onto about 75 percent of the paint I wanted to remove, let it sit about 90 min, then sprayed off all that aluminum paint with a power washer.  That whole portion took only about 3 hours.  So now I am 75% of the way done with stripping the paint.  That stuff is 60$ a gallon, and they use it to strip the Plasticoat from vintage airstreams in prep for renovation.  It was worth every penny.  At first I got this stuff from the hardware store that took 45 min to strip a 6 inchx3 inch smidgeon, and the cost savings is not worth the time savings.  Really, I think the Removall 220 is truly the most amazing product I have ever encountered for its purpose, and the non corrosive/non-toxicicity while being potently and quickly effective just makes it amazing.So then I got a little bee in my bonent to see what it would look like if I started polishing, and this is where I am now:





The bare aluminum has taken a beating in it"s 25 years, and will never be beautiful, but I think in the end its going to look good with the bottom paint, which will be a navy blue.  

I have a whole pallet of new furniture from Pontoonstuff in my dining room that hopefully one day I will be able to put on! The deadline is June 20th to have this thing back out on the water. Work sure gets in the way of my rebuild!


Edited by rickdb1
Jenn
Charlottesville, VA
85 Harris Sunliner 24ft
85 Johnson 70 hp
Kayak: Tarpon 160i
Back to Top
CajunDiver View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member
Avatar
Excellent Member Of The Year 2009

Joined: 07/24/2008
Location: Louisiana
Status: Offline
Points: 1786
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CajunDiver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/12/2009 at 10:37pm
Looking good. Won"t be long and you will be seeing the project come together. Thanks for the update!
89 Tracker Party Hut rebuilt & modified for 2009
Excellent Member Of The Month Club 12/08
"Guns don't kill people the government does"--Rusty Shackleford
Back to Top
peppyjd View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member
Avatar
Excellent Member Of The Month Club 04/09

Joined: 08/31/2008
Location: Charlottesville
Status: Offline
Points: 466
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peppyjd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/13/2009 at 9:21pm
Thanks Brian, Big Bucket, and Dave (aka Captain 58).  Reading these posts and being involved in the forum really keeps me motivated.  With spring here, I feel like I can keep moving forward. 

It is a steep learning curve, that"s for sure, but it"s been rewarding and a lot of fun.  I"m most happy when learning something new. 

Hopefully it"s done before the end of June (vacation).  Next two weekends I plan to finish getting the logs polished and painted, and then the new deck and vinyl after that.  I"ve got all the parts I need stored in the house...We"ll see.  I"ll keep the pics coming.

Thanks again....
Jenn
Charlottesville, VA
85 Harris Sunliner 24ft
85 Johnson 70 hp
Kayak: Tarpon 160i
Back to Top
peppyjd View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member
Avatar
Excellent Member Of The Month Club 04/09

Joined: 08/31/2008
Location: Charlottesville
Status: Offline
Points: 466
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peppyjd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/15/2009 at 10:10pm
Thanks for you input Dave, I had a feeling that the small compressor would be inadequate, but thought I"d inquire.  I really don"t need one anyway as I have the electric buffer from HF and some buffing attachments for the end of the drill.  It"s probably a good thing because I don"t need to find a reason to buy more tools! 

I do plan to leave an 1/8 inch gap to allow for expansion, and will be sealing the seams with the decktape from pontoonstuff.  There is just not enough time in the day after work takes its share!  Hopefully the deck will go on in about 3 weeks...June is on its way! 
Jenn
Charlottesville, VA
85 Harris Sunliner 24ft
85 Johnson 70 hp
Kayak: Tarpon 160i
Back to Top
Guests View Drop Down
Guest Group
Guest Group

Guest
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/15/2009 at 11:24pm

First time I"ve ever heard about expansion. We tapped my boards together and had the screws cinch up tight. Same why the boat manufacturers did it during the factory tour. The glue fills the voids.

Back to Top
peppyjd View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member
Avatar
Excellent Member Of The Month Club 04/09

Joined: 08/31/2008
Location: Charlottesville
Status: Offline
Points: 466
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peppyjd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/16/2009 at 8:06am
Got my treated decking material wet at a local lumber supply, and it has instructions to leave a 1/8 inch seam stamped on it.  I also have to let it dry for 2 weeks per their instructions.  Hopefully between the vinyl glue and seam tape, all will be well.  Can"t wait.
Jenn
Charlottesville, VA
85 Harris Sunliner 24ft
85 Johnson 70 hp
Kayak: Tarpon 160i
Back to Top
Guests View Drop Down
Guest Group
Guest Group

Guest
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/16/2009 at 8:11am
Ahh so not CCA, you got the stuff that"ll eat your support members over time.
Back to Top
peppyjd View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member
Avatar
Excellent Member Of The Month Club 04/09

Joined: 08/31/2008
Location: Charlottesville
Status: Offline
Points: 466
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peppyjd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/16/2009 at 8:49am
I have not gone into this redecking lightly or uninformed.  Actually after research, I am trying something that I have not heard of on this site.  I bought a treated plywood treated with Disodium Octaborate Tetrahydrate (DOT Borates), manufactured in Amelia, VA.  It is water and insect repellent.  It is also non-corrosive to any type of metal and has a 40 year warranty.  I will never have this boat 40 years---so if I get 10 years, that will be awesome.  The same yard sells sells CCA, so I had a choice, and went with the borate.

Edited by peppyjd
Jenn
Charlottesville, VA
85 Harris Sunliner 24ft
85 Johnson 70 hp
Kayak: Tarpon 160i
Back to Top
Guests View Drop Down
Guest Group
Guest Group

Guest
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/16/2009 at 9:23am
I"m thinking if you have the seam tape in place and there is no direct contact between the crossmembers and plywood, there should be no corrosion anyway. It sounds like the wood you"re using should work out fine, since it is non-corrosive to begin with.
Back to Top
Guests View Drop Down
Guest Group
Guest Group

Guest
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/16/2009 at 9:29am

I haven"t heard of DOT either, interesting and sounds pretty good. Thanks for that info Jenn.

by the way Jenn, what was the cost comparison between the two?



Edited by Wildcat Dude
Back to Top
peppyjd View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member
Avatar
Excellent Member Of The Month Club 04/09

Joined: 08/31/2008
Location: Charlottesville
Status: Offline
Points: 466
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peppyjd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/16/2009 at 10:53am

As I recall, the price difference between the CCA and DOT Borate was negligble....something less than a dollar per sheet.  I had a little bit of a struggle with the choice since CCA is tried and true, but since this treatment contains no metals it is non-corrosive to fasteners or crossbeams, and contains no arsenic, its environmentally friendly. A friend of mine knows some folks who have used it in rebuilds, and have been very happy with it. 

Jenn
Charlottesville, VA
85 Harris Sunliner 24ft
85 Johnson 70 hp
Kayak: Tarpon 160i
Back to Top
Guests View Drop Down
Guest Group
Guest Group

Guest
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/16/2009 at 11:29am
I"ll pass that on to PontoonStuff, thanks.  Maybe they"ll look into it.
Back to Top
VaGent View Drop Down
Most Dedicated Members
Most Dedicated Members
Avatar
"Excellent Member of the Year 2011"

Joined: 09/08/2008
Location: Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 1092
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote VaGent Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/16/2009 at 11:39am

Let me add my 2 cents on this subject since it"s been brought up. First off treated marine plywood is NOT available anywhere in this area. The only place in town that does sell what is called "marine plywood" told me it I bought it it would have to be fiberglassed in order to keep it protected. This information was given to me by several well known boat repair shops & builders in my area. Since I live less then 90 miles from Virginia Beach I checked many places as to the accuracy of this inofrmation & they all told me the same thing. Thsi is NOT to say genuine marine plywood cannot be bought just not locally. It would all have to be ordered & shipped to the buyer.

Upon the advice of one well known boat builder I went to the same place that peppyjd went too & bought my plywood decking AFTER talking to the people who produced it at their plant. There is little to say about the difference in cost verses the number of years warranty they give you IMO. The cost of so called "marine plywood" around here is $72.00 a sheet verses the DOT plywood which cost me $27.87 a sheet. With a 40 year warranty included & talking to others who have been using it for the past 5 yrs there was no doubt in my mind or my budget which way I was giong to go. The plywood has no voids, no cracks & is sanded smooth on one side. The unsanded side I would have no porblem with glueing my carpet to at all. It is that smooth.

The way I see it I will not be alive in 40 yrs & for the same reason I know I most definitly will not be out on the pontoon boat unless someone ties to a fishing chair to hold me in. I will provide a link to the site that explains the treating process & all information concerning it later this evening. When it comes to the amount of money I can afford to spend I have to do what is best for me & for what I want to do. AND the amount of time I have left to do it in.



Edited by VaGent
Les
"Atta Boy Award July 2010"
"Excellent Member Of The Month Club 07/09"
1984 24ft JC
2011 E-TEC 90 hp
1993 Voyager 24ft Pontoon
2006 E-TEC 90 hp
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  123 4>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.01
Copyright ©2001-2014 Web Wiz Ltd.