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pc3flyr 1987 Lowes Fish-N-Fun rebuild DONE

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CajunDiver View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CajunDiver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/22/2010 at 8:55pm
I don"t know why they used H sections but the reason for the 5/8 with the 1/8" rabbet is so that the deck is flush. Had they used a 3/4" trough the 1/8" or whatever thickness of the metal would leave a hump in the carpet/floor. This is probably more watertight than a Z section which leaves a crack that has to be sealed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kartracer28 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/22/2010 at 9:20pm

I am rebuilding a Sun Tracker for someone. It has 1/8 thick Z channel with 5/8 wood... All the others I have done a have 1/16 thick Z channel with 3/4 wood. I guess the thickness of the Z channel makes up for the 5/8 wood. It looks as though the 5/8 will not hold the weight that the 3/4 will.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3cflyr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/22/2010 at 11:24pm
Hey Captain

Been watching your weld problems with extreme interest.

Don"t know.  Tried to get some info direct from Lowe about this boat.  They only referred me to the nearest Lowe dealer!  I can try that dealer.  They were friendly and tried to get me the info i wanted.  Good idea, or, why didn"t I think of that.

Thanks
Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3cflyr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/09/2010 at 11:13pm

Hi Folks.  An update on our rebuild. I found that cutting the old plywood out between the Z and C channels and grinding off the deck screw heads was the best method for rapid removal (if there is such a thing).   Thanks to the members who reported on this earlier.  The underside of the plywood was in pretty decent shape.  The topside was very bad.  The top ply adhered to the old carpet and separated from the remainder of the plies on a lot of the front half of the deck.

The back half, which I expected to be in bad shape based on the visible mold, dampness, etc., was pretty decent.

Well the old wood is off and the upgrade/rebuild begins.  Early work on the new under deck ladder is complete

The Wire, Cable and Livewell runs are very accessible while the deck is off. 

But some new knowledge has come to light.  Using a 6 ft level and laying it across the H channels (fore to aft) one finds that the bottom of that level is 5/8 inches above the Z channels.  So the old deck was in fact 5/8 inches thick.

The H channel is just under 5/8 inch.

So weíve ordered 5/8 marine CCA.  Found a place on line that has it at a very reasonable price.  And its the only place I found that handled 5/8 inch CCA. Its here if anyone is interested or needs less than 3/4 plywood. Previously a question arose about a possible crack in the weld at the rear of one of the pontoons.  When I pulled the drain plug recently, there was no water and no evidence of water in either log.  The one in question also had a 3-5 sec release of built up air pressure when the plug was pulled.  Kinda made my day.  Smile  Picking up the new plywood tomorrow and going back to work.  Next update as soon as I have something worth telling.  Mike

***removed some odd formatting code that appeared in the text***



Edited by Wildcat Dude
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/09/2010 at 11:52pm
Good link, and I like their description of their CCA process and prices are good. What"s the shipping prices like for you - good and reasonable?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/09/2010 at 11:53pm
funny how I see your deck is off and now you have really easy access to clean those toons if you wanted to  but I bet you"re busting a gut to get it done and ready for the water.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3cflyr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/10/2010 at 1:00am
Leaning both ways.  Top half of the toons are not a big problem.  The lower half is another story.  And i have no water access here unless i haul it in.  I"m going to try some cleaning before I do a lot of the deck install.  Still waiting carpet samples so it will be awhile before i can put carpet on.  Plus the weather is still cool at night.  Only 43 tonight.  So I may have quite a bit of time.  ConfusedDeadCry

Oh yeah.  Not cheap.  $75 to crate and $112 to ship.  They shipped very quickly.  They were the only supplier of small quantity 5/8 inch for a reasonable price I could find.

Mike


Edited by adakops
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3cflyr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/24/2010 at 10:25am
Progress has been slow  but things should move a little faster.  The wiring is laid in rough.
 


New deck plywood has arrived.



The Transom is complete and has been bolted in.  Used SS with lots of silicone sealant and anti seize as recommended by members of this forum.



I acquired one of the Harbor Freight buffers.  Works pretty well and not quite as heavy as I expected it to be.



My initial effort at cleaning prior to polishing was slow and not very satisfactory.  So Iíve ordered Nuvite F9, F7 and S.  If they work Iíll really be impressed.  The logs on this boat had not been well cared for.



My buddy Molly is ready for me to get this boat ready.  She loves the pontoon boat and going out on the lake.



And look what Fedex dragged in yesterday!  I wanted to have the console in hand when cutting the holes and setting up the deck for the cable and electrical runs.  And surprise, it had the new switch setup.  Really nice.   Got to send a note to Courtney at Pontoon Stuff thanking him for his efforts.



More to follow as we get closer to this years launch.

Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/24/2010 at 11:36am
I just love that console and now with the new switches in place, I"m no longer wanting to try and obtain a blank panel. Only thing I worry about is access (my arm movement is restricted due to an earlier stroke in 98) for steering cable install and the fuse panel and harness might be a little fun.  What guages do you have for installing in the console? Thinking of letting my gauges go with the console and get the Teleflex Artic series (all white with stainless steel) which should really highlight that burl finish on the panel.  I noticed your steering cable rod, make sure you clean it well and especially the steering tube on the motor. Once you clean it out (really good) inspect it for pitting or signs of rust. I used a shotgun cleaning rod with a brush to clean out the tube on my Force 40, wiped it down and then lubed the tube and rod (along with adding a cable buddy as an option). On your tubes, don"t try sanding unless its REALLY caked on, use AC Coil Cleaner, as it might take more than couple applications if its really bad, but it"ll really help that F9 smooth it down. Now keep in mind that F9 won"t give you fantasitc results, its the F7 and S that"ll make it shine. I used almost all my 1/2lb of F9 but still have plenty of F7 (1/4 lb jar) and almost all my S (1/4 lb jar). Use it sparingly, 3 fingertips every 2-3 ft with F9, every 3-4 ft with F7 & S. Refer to our polishing guide and you"ll soon find the niche.  Sure do miss my ole black lab (narcotic dog named Smack - died in 89 in the hands of another deputy). He loved riding in the boat with me in the bayou"s of Abbeville, Lousiana.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3cflyr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/24/2010 at 8:02pm
WCD - thanks for the info on polishing and preservation of the steering cable.  Yeah Molly gets up on the sundeck and checks the motor for me every now and then.  Then she goes to the bow and watches for obstacles.  She has a good time.

Captain I didn"t plant many sonobuoys off the coast of Jax.  But There is a stretch between Iceland and Scotland and another inside the Straits of Gibraltar where i donated to the cause.  Like to have that aluminum right now. 
I"ve still got quite a way to go yet but once I get the toons buffed up as much as i can it"ll probably go pretty fast.

Thanks
Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peppyjd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/25/2010 at 12:01pm
Nice pics--- I am not sure I"d ever want to undertake redecking a toon for someone, and polishing to boot!  But I would surely help them out.  It"s very interesting to learn about the unusual snags people run into that are unique to their rebuild- such as your 5/8 inch plywood.  Good job on solving that one!  Looks like the race is on for you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3cflyr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/25/2010 at 1:06pm
Aaahh yes the race is on.  But what else would I do in my spare time?  Keeps me off the streets and out of the bars - to use an old phrase.  I thought the H channels would be a challenge but hit the right depth with my router on the first try.  Not hard getting the routed deck into the channels using a routed piece of scrap on the opposite side and rapping the scrap with a hammer.

Here is my thought on the console layout.  Throttle or controller on the right and the ignition is the little plate next to it on its left.



I am concerned about getting the steering and engine control cables through the deck and into the console and aligned with the controls and not taking up too much of the console interior.  Also I want to put the console near (very close) to the starboard rail.  That would put the cables entering the console almost on its left side and a long way from the throttle box, steering not so far.  So I"ll actually carry the console to the boat and set it on the open frame work to see if i can get everything to align without rerouting the cables trough new ports in the cross members which I"d have to cut in.  Hope I don"t have to do that.

Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3cflyr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/25/2010 at 1:13pm
I also want to protect the deck and the console from water entry through the cable and wiring access points.  I obtained a 3 in cable boot but not sure it will effectively close uo both.  I can put it in one way and protect the underside of the deck, but not the water runoff on the deck below the console.  Turn it over and install in the console and I have the reverse problem.  Isn"t this fun???    So I"ve still got some thinking to do on this issue. 

Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/25/2010 at 1:43pm
You might consider boxing in the area where the hole is underneath with aluminum. That will keep the splash at bay. Also, you may want to consider swapping the speedo and tach location. I"ve always found it more natural to have the tach on the right side, as that"s the one I look at more out of the two. Course I have a GPS, so I rarely look at the regular speedo anyway. Lookin" good though.. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peppyjd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/25/2010 at 1:52pm
I was thinking that swap too, Rick.  Also, if I was laying it out, I might put the trim at the top or far right position, as you may be looking at that more while underway, than the other two gauges.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3cflyr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/25/2010 at 8:43pm
Rick, Jenn and Bennettc

Rick - For the alum box are you thinking of a box with the opening aft so as to deflect any water while running?  Like a four sided deflector (fwd, port, stbd and bottom)?

Yes I agree the Tach needs to be nearer to the fuel, volt, etc.  Don"t really need the Speedo with a romping 30 HP motor.  But maybe later a bigger motor?  The 3 gauge cluster was for a grouping for quick scan.  They could be moved around.  My thinking is based on my flying days and if I could I"d have the three smaller in a vertical stack next to the Tach for a faster scan.  I want the volt near the starter/ignition for view during start and prior to.  Fuel I watch a lot.  Trim I don"t even have now but will in the future.  And yes I"d like a little cushion on space out to the right for a future need.

But let me play with your ideas.  Might change my mind.  Many thanks for the suggestions.

Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/25/2010 at 9:11pm
Personally, after knowing what I know about speedo"s, they are basically worthless, Invest in a GPS that will give more fuctions. I just got a fish finder that once I get the sensor fori it, it"ll show my speed on the fish finder (but I"m still going with a GPS). I found out recently that I could make the MPH view larger (among other things).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/25/2010 at 10:31pm

Originally posted by adakops adakops wrote:


Rick - For the alum box are you thinking of a box with the opening aft so as to deflect any water while running?  Like a four sided deflector (fwd, port, stbd and bottom)?

I would just screw or rivit a small sheet of aluminum (Maybe a one foot square) across the crossmembers under the hole and then put sides on it up to the deck. I had to do that on my Sundancer cause water kept splashing up on the floor inside the helm and soaking everything within a couple feet. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3cflyr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/25/2010 at 10:59pm
Yep, that would work.  We"ll give it a shot.  I can use the cable boot to stop any deck runoff under the console from infiltrating the console.  I like it.

Thanks
Mike


Edited by adakops
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KenC1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/26/2010 at 9:22am
Hi Mike.  Where the cables come up through the floor you might consider using foam insulation to fill in and around the boot.  That"s the way mine came from the factory and it seemed to help alot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CajunDiver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/26/2010 at 9:42am

Ditto the foam. I used it on mine with no issues. Just trim it flush AFTER it sets up if your concerned with looks.

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3cflyr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/26/2010 at 10:19am
Ken and Brian

You"re referring to the spray foam in a can from the local hardware and big box stores?  That would work also and inside the boot it would not show.  When exposed to view it normally turns an ugly orange brown color especially if trimmed flush with a surface.     Under the deck or under the console it wouldn"t show.  I think I have a can around here somewhere.  

Thanks
Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/26/2010 at 10:43am
Personally, I wouldn"t do that to mine as I"m always adding or subtracting electrics and if I was to spray that stuff, it turns hard as a rock over time. Yeah, I could always punch a hole, but the rubber boot will still keep out most water and allow rain water (if any) out. (just my 2cents opinion)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3cflyr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/27/2010 at 8:39pm
OK.  At a conference with the other Captain on this boat the selection of the following layout for the gauges on the new console was approved.  The order of the small may change.  At an estimated 15 MPH I donít have to worry about major fast responses.  BennettC had it right!!



 Sure have enjoyed the discussions on gauges recently (Ken C, WCD and others).  Helps me with my soon to follow selection of gauges.  Think I want a white face also.  I like the Teleflex Sahara but the beige face wonít go well with gray and blue me thinks.  Plus Iím at the age where Iíll take all the visual assistance I can get.

 Question:  How much does the cross member tape to repel water elevate the butt joint of decking compared to the rest of the Z or other cross members?  Do the deck screws pull the joint down to where there is no discernable ridge below or in the carpet?

 

Thanks

Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/27/2010 at 8:48pm
Doesn"t elevate it at all, you won"t even notice it. Yes to the last sentence.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3cflyr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/27/2010 at 9:05pm
Many thanks.  Helps my planning and get it going immensely.

Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CGbosun Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/27/2010 at 10:42pm

Mike,

Saw your signature; still flying those things? I was an ASAC (ASW Air Controller) back in the day.  Keep up the good work so you can splash that toon soon!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3cflyr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/27/2010 at 10:50pm
ASCAC!     Haven"t heard that term in a few years.  Not many out here in fly over country ever heard of that.  Where may i ask?  I was out of Kef, Sig,  Jax, and was staff in pearl (Ford Island 3rd flt)  Base Ops in Adak and CO of the NAVFAC at Ramey in Puerto Rico.  Also a cat officer on the Independence.  No I retired in 1984 so no more fly the many motor planes.  But i still miss chasing subs, etc.

Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/06/2010 at 3:31pm
Welcome Rick. More often than not, U shaped logs will not have any compartments and be filled with foam. round logs generally are separated into several different compartments.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3cflyr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/15/2010 at 10:52pm
Hello rickspontoon

Sorry I missed your question.  I"ve been working the boat and remiss in posting.  I"ll have to fix that.

Most info I have on my boat is from internet searches and this forum.  And I don"t have a lot of info on the toons themselves.  I tried to get some info from Lowe boats direct and got referred to a local marina.  Needless to say I won"t spend a lot of time trying to get help from Lowe.

I believe that rickdb1 has the correct answer on the toons.  When I pulled the plugs on mine this winter there was a rush of built up pressure and no sign of leakage or of water ever being inside the toons.  I was pleased. 

My guess would be that a weld on yours is separated or has a slight crack next to a weld.  The only other possibility is a hole in the toons or the seam at the top around the perimeter of each is leaking.   This seam is the flange around the toon where the cross members are bolted on.   I suspect it is not the seam at the top because water would have to get pretty high to get in there or on top of the toons.  But anything is possible.

A search of the site will reveal how others have had their toons pressure checked and found leaks that way (the only real adequate way).  A local boat shop here does this.  And, to my surprise, a local machining and welding shop does also.  And they do excellent aluminum welding!!  See Captain58"s rebuild and learn why a good aluminum welder is a must for repairs to toons.

Is 40 miles from the Lowe factory in Missouri?

Mike
Mike

"Atta Boy" Award June 2011
1987 Lowes Fish and Fun 20ft
1999 Merc 50hp 4 strk big foot
Kirksville, Mo
P3C Orion Pilot
ASW Warfare Specialist
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