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darrklim2 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: OLD DECAL REMOVAL
    Posted: 05/15/2008 at 11:26am

Originally posted by TrexToon TrexToon wrote:

A hairdryer will soften the decal and adhesive allowing easier removal. WD40 will remove the remaining adhesive without damaging the paint.

"Goo Gone" should also remove the remaining adhesive.

Darren
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/28/2008 at 10:16pm

We have been working on removing the old decals from our 91 SunTracker 30 foot boat.  Here are some pictures of the process we are using.  We picked up the idea of the hair dryer from this thread of suggestions.  We used the hair dryer to heat the fence panel from the underneath.  We put packing tape over the decals and stripes and lifted.  (I work for a moving company and had some of our packing tape at home.  We ran out of this tape and tried to use masking tape and another clear brand of packing tape and it did not work as welll).  We realized pretty quickly the decals would break more easily of the aluminum became too hot.  We used a sweeping motion with the hair dryer to keep the warm air moving but not concentrate the heat in any one place.  Our fences seem to be vinyl coated or have some kind of texctured coating.  Using the hair dryer and pulling the stripes and decals off with the packing tape kept the old stripes and decals in nearly one piece.  It was interesting the blue and white stripes did not come off easily.  I had to use my fingernail to scrape some of the stripes towards the tape to keep them stuck to the tape.  It was a bit tedious but we accomplished de-imaging one entire forward fence in one evening after work.  We had to use a razor blade to scrape off the white stripe and the last of the blue stripe that just would not come off using the tape and hair dryer.  We had to be very careful with the razor blade as to not gouge the gray vinyl covering of the fence aluminum.  See pics::::

The vessel registration number was a thick brittle decal.  The glue smelled very bad once heated.  I could not get an edge to lift without cracking into tiny pieces.  I covered the decal with the packing tape and presto it came off easily while heating with hair dryer.

The following pix are how we recovered the fence with white vinyl.  This vinyl can be purchased from any sign shop or on-line vinyl graphics supplier.  The biggest difficulty is making sure the surgace is free and clear of any debris.  Jeff used the razor blade to scrape off the glue residue and nicked the vinyl in a few places.  These places were visible once the new vinyl was in place.  Every imperfection shows through the new vinyl.  We will use and buffer to feather the edges of any imperfections on the next fence we cover.  We tried Goo Gone on the glue residue but it did not work on mose of the residue.

Please let me know if this works for anyone else!!

Happy New Year!



Edited by lindaslounge
Jeff & Linda
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/28/2008 at 10:37pm
Nice husband and wife project during Christmas . I took the easy way out and just layed down the vinyl fencing on the outside and trimmed it. Out of curiosity for the others who might consider doing this, how much was the vinyl you purchased for this project (rough figures will do). I see yours was a 30ft vessel but costs should still be pretty close for 24ft and others. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/28/2008 at 11:00pm
Linda with such a good detailed response like that, Rick (rickdb1) suggested I should make this a sticky topic and I couldn"t agree more - thanks for the input, especially a very detailed explained process so it couldn"t be much easier. I think that earns you an "AttaGirl" award for December 2008.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/29/2008 at 8:24am
Nice work Linda (and Jeff)!

TrexToon mentioned WD40.. and I can"t understate the power of that stuff in situations like this.  Substantially better than Goo-Gone in my opinion.  For the REALLY tough "goo", I use Gumout carb cleaner (but be careful with that stuff!).

And in my opinion, resist the temptation to sandblast the stickers and graphics off.  If you"re not careful, the sandblasting will cause the aluminum skins to "swell".
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/29/2008 at 9:47am

You could also try Contractors Solvent Pro Strength by De-Solv-it.  I use it for a number of tough applications and it is a good alternative to more toxic petroleum based solvents. It is made from Orange"s and works very well.  It is used for removing Caulk, Silicone, Floor adhesive, Oil, Roofing tar, Grease, Wet paint.  It also works fairly well at cleaning up mildew off bathroom walls.  Here is a web site for you.   http://www.de-solv-it.com/

WARNING: IF YOU DON"T LIKE THE SMELL OF ORANGES DON"T USE THIS STUFF.

Eric
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/29/2008 at 7:49pm

Nice work Linda. I tried everything above but the hair dryer. I finally would soften the decal/glue with commercial decal remover and use a razor blade to scrape it off. The glue still bled thru and after re-painting a panel or two I had to use a orbital sander and just sand back down to bare metal to get it where the decals did not show thru. One side of my toon looks ok but the other side you can see the glue residue. Next time I think I will take Charles" advice and just skin over it with vinyl fencing. It will cost a little more but save alot of time.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/30/2008 at 11:51pm

Thank you very much for the AttaGirl!!!  The vinyl was a gift from a friend so I do not have a cost, sorry.  I spent time working for a sign shop and learned some great techniques with laying the vinyl.  Jeff worked for U-Haul re-imaging the trucks with the vinyl covering and the vinyl decals.  Every U-Haul you see on the road is not painted.  It is a vinyl.  The biggest trick is using a "Squee".  It is a square piece of plastic with rounded corners and two ridges in the center for pushing leverage.  The ones I have are a 3M product with a part no of P.A.-1.  I will take a pic and post. The biggest thing is going slow from the center out.  We cannot see any of the silouettes of the old striping and logos.  I really would like to put some of the SunTracker logos and Party Hut logos back on the boat.  I told Jeff I would like people to know my boat is a SunTracker Party Hut.  Jeff says "anyone who knows toons knows you have a Party Hut".  I suppose he is right. Here is a pic of what we THINK we are going to do with the imaging.

This is a totally computer generated picture.  I edited the color of the fences and started adding the graphics I cut and pasted off the net.  The color of the cocktail glasses looks green in this pic but they will be blue.  Please tell me what you think of my design!!

The little one is our grandaughter, Emma.  She had to wear her life jacket on the boat, it was cute.  This pic was taken Jan 07 before we even put it in the water.

Jeff & Linda
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/31/2008 at 12:21am
I like it
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/31/2008 at 11:42am
Looks good to me.
Darren
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/09/2009 at 9:51am
Nice work! You get my vote!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/14/2009 at 6:38pm
widths or heights and if heights that would be inches not feet (forum software converts any quotes to single quotes so don"t use quotes here to indicate inches or feet) , but yes, be aware of 18in or 24in high (usually comes in 50ft coils, barely enough to do a 20ft pontoon. I like the vinyl, easier to work with and no fear of dents.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/13/2009 at 12:16am
indutch, great detectivce job.  I am now changing my mind on the graphics for our boat posted here.  Someone mentioned the flag graphics reminded them of the Patriots insignia.  Not sure I want people thinking that my boat is a tribute to the Patriots.  Don"t get me wrong Patriot fans I just do not watch the game much.  We decided to change the whole theme of the graphics as we are changing the color of the seats and everything.  We like the red, white and blue graphcs.  I will have to get busy and finish the new idea I have for the graphics and post the new picture.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/24/2009 at 1:57pm
That"s what I did, I just covered it up.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/24/2009 at 4:00pm
The old decals would probably show thru. Unless I"m mistaken, the vinyl they put on is basically a heavy duty sticker. Is that correct lindaslounge?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/24/2009 at 5:57pm
Yes in her case, so old decals had to come off or it would show through. I thought he referring to vinyl fencing (my bad)
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/15/2009 at 2:13am

Hello, My apologies I have not paid attention to this thread and answered your questions.  The vinyl covering is like a big sticker.  It is the same vinyl that is cut into decals and not the vinyl covering that is sold by PontoonStuff for covering the fence.  The old imaging would show through this vinyl and cause more chances of air bubbles under the new vinyl.  Applying new decorative decals would be difficult to get good adherance with ridges of old decals under the vinyl covering and once again create ridges under the new imaging.  You would really be surprised at what shows through this vinyl material, scratches, the old glue, dirt literally everything.  Applying this vinyl is not for everyone as there is definitely a learning curve.  Jeff and I both have been in the re-imaging and sign making business in the past so we both have experience with applying this product and decals.  I suppose it is the basic old decal removal process advise that I am offering in this thread.

We thought the process we were using was taking too much time and too tedious.  Jeff decided to use a single edged razor blade holder and razor blade to scrape off the decals and glue.  Works great.  You have to be careful as the razor blade can cause nasty gouges in the aluminum.  The blade needs to be replaced often.  Any little burr to the blade and it will cause scratches.  Check out the pics!

This is the ball of old decals Jeff removed from fences in about 30 to 45 minutes.  After removing the decals, Jeff went back over the areas to scrape more glue. He then used an orbital hand sander to remove the imperfections and additional remaining glue.

Happy decal removing!!

 



Edited by lindaslounge
Jeff & Linda
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/16/2009 at 1:35pm
When you get all that scraping finished I"ve got a 74 Starcraft you can do also.  I just don"t want you to get rusty from lack of practice.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/16/2009 at 2:53pm
I had really good luck getting almost all of the pinstriping off of the barge using the heat gun (on the decal side).  Like you, I ended up with a HUGE ball of old decals.

I also noted (as you did) that the different colors came off with a different level of difficulty.  I don"t know if they were initially made of a slightly different material, or if the sun and UV attacked the different colors in different ways.

But what didn"t come off with the heat gun... came off with the razor.  I "rounded" the ends of the blade (with 400 grit wet/dry) to make sure they didn"t gouge into the old paint.  Worked well.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/18/2009 at 1:25am
Good idea, Scottbee, with rounding the edges of the razor.  I think some of the stripes were either reflective or metallic.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/12/2009 at 5:42pm
Think Brian (briankinley2004) did and keep thinking somebody else did recently. Yes, I am in the process now of covering my old aluminum siding and not covering the fence like I did originally. Its actually turning out to be easier. Making it about 1/2in bigger than the inside around the fencing, bow it a little and it slips right into place. I then on each end of the panel put a small piece of two way tape into place and pop the panel back into place. Thinking of using something else, that"ll allow me to apply adhesive on the aluminum panel, but lets me adjust the vinyl fence paneling into place before it sticks/drys. Two sided tape isn"t very forgiving. Waiting till I get done before I do pics.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/17/2009 at 1:16am
The packing tape really works well to keep all those little broken pieces together.  I used my thumpnail to push the stripes and keep them stuck to the tape.  We hae the textured finish also.  We found on the first fence that we could not get the gule off.  I used about 5 or 6 different products.  There is some stuff you can get that is used on aicraft but it is banned in CA so I can"t get it.  We decided to sand the glue of with an orbital type sander.  Yes it destroyed the texture but we are putting the vinyl decal type material over it so the texture is covered anyway.  If I had to do it again and the money, I would buy the fence covering offered by Pontoon Stuff and cover everything and not worry about the decaling.
Jeff & Linda
'91 Suntracker Party Hut 30 DL
Evinrude 115 hp 2 cycle
2006 HD Roadking
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