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mfwyatt 1977 Playcraft 24ft Rebuild

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    Posted: 09/21/2010 at 8:10pm
Hey everyone,

I"ve been floating on the forum for a couple months now and have finally ordered some of my rebuilding materials. Here is what I am starting with.  It is a 1977 Playcraft 24ft Pontoon with a 1985 Johnson 50HP. I got the trailer, motor, and boat for $2000. This is my first boat and I am planning on keeping it for awhile!  I purchased a gallon of Sharkhide aluminum cleaner and a 1/2 gallon of Sharkhide protectant. I plan on taking the logs and rails down to their original aluminum finish which seems to be an offwhite color. Then i"ll seal the finish in with the protectant. I also just placed my first PontoonStuff order yesterday afternoon.  I got a 16oz carpet kit, Switch Panel, Wiring Harness, Nav lights, anchor lights, and an extra gallon of glue.  I plan on purchasing the Borate treated plywood from a local lumber yard instead of the CCA because it is half the price. I am going to start tearing the deck off before I order because I am concerned with the possibility of having "h" channel cross members and 5/8" plywood. Any clue on if Playcraft used crossmembers that you can"t fit 3/4" plywood into?  Sorry for the long post. I will start flooding pics daily.  Thanks in advance to all the members of this forum for the large amount of info that i"ll get.





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote papaz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 8:28pm
Welcome to the forum and good luck with your project!!  Looks like you have a good start.  Have you checked the pontoons for water?  From the scum line on the toons it looks like they were floating o.k. but i"d check them just the same.  It"s hard to beat the old Johnson motors and they are easy to get parts for, I also like the hard-top. A little paint, a little polish and a whole lot of elbow grease and you"ll have the guys out there with the newer boats envying yours.  Again good luck and I know that you"ll get lots of great advice on here. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3cflyr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 8:40pm
Hello Mfwyatt and welcome.  I have the H channels on my boat.  You can pull the side rail or rub rail above the pontoon that cover the deck edge and inspect for H channel.  I thought my 5/8 was 3/4 deck due to swelling.  so look for the H channel.  Look forward to your rebuild.  It was enjoyable to me.  More i want to do!!!  Never ends, I think.   

Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mfwyatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 8:53pm
I"ll pull the side rail off tomorrow and check it out. If I have H Channels, then the 8" side of the plywood will be in between two pieces of metal correct?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 8:59pm

Welcome to the site Mikey. Looks like a great project toon with lots of room. Look forward to your progress..

BTW- I updated your signature line to show what boat and motor you have. It should show in future posts. Makes it easier for those giving advice..

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CajunDiver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 8:59pm

Welcome Wyatt. Nice project boat. I see its registered in Arkansas. Is that where you are located? I did a search on borate treated wood as I thought there was a reason not to use it. There is a table here that explains the different types. Fasteners are discussed here

Although, according to the link, borate is not as corrosive to the fasteners its really not made for being exposed to weather. You may want to consider storing your toon under a shed or keeping it covered (which is a good idea anyway) when not in use. Lots of knowledge on this forum so ask away and you should get answers to most anything you encounter



Edited by briankinley2004
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CajunDiver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 9:02pm
Wyatt Rick just beat me to updating your profile. while in there I noticed one of your interests is scuba diving. My toon is located on Lake Ouachita and we dive up there as well as in the LA gulf.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3cflyr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 9:30pm
Yes the 8 ft length runs cross boat.  You"ll be able to see the 4 ft ends between the supports.  And not all may be H channel.  I had three cross deck H channel supports.  Rest were C or U channel and Z channel but was still held to 5/8 plywood because of the H channel.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mfwyatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 10:28pm
I am from Arkansas. I live in Mountain Home. I have never been diving in Lake Ouachita or in the LA Gulf. We do a lot of spearfishing here on Norfork and Bull Shoals. We also do a lot of deep diving.(not technical just rec.) I will look into the borate a little more. I don"t have a shed to store it under. I am going to pull the side rails tomorrow and I"ll let you guys know what I find!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CajunDiver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 10:42pm
Mountain Home...thats in my top 10 places I would live. I dove Norfork once and it was actually the "maiden" dive voyage for my toon the Dive Shack. We trailered her up there May of last year and put in at Jordans Marina. Had some great viz but the water was a little cold for us. We deep dive alot on the oil rigs shooting fish. I have a personal limit of 150" but some of the guys make quick drops to 200ft. We are not technical either, just air. Do you plan on diving on your toon? There are several on here (myself included) that have built various versions of toons for diving. My next project is a toon duckblind but haven"t stumbled across a deal yet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mfwyatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 11:03pm
Originally posted by papaz papaz wrote:

Welcome to the forum and good luck with your
project!!  Looks like you have a good start.  Have you checked the
pontoons for water?  From the scum line on the toons it looks like
they were floating o.k. but i"d check them just the same.  It"s hard to
beat the old Johnson motors and they are easy to get parts for, I also
like the hard-top. A little paint, a little polish and a whole lot of elbow
grease and you"ll have the guys out there with the newer boats
envying yours.  Again good luck and I know that you"ll get lots of
great advice on here. 


The tubes actually have drain holes in the back. Normally after a long
day on the water I will have 2-4 cups of water in each tube. I was
planning on taking it to a welder and have them pressure test and
repair but I read somewhere that no welder would dare put a flame
near tubes filled with foam. So I may test for leaks myself and repair
with jbweld or something similar. Any advice?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mfwyatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/22/2010 at 12:39pm
Bad news....I pulled the side rail off and I have 5/8" plywood and have about 3 H Channel crossmembers.  My local lumber company can"t find 5/8" CCA. Can I buy C Channel crossmembers or I crossmembers somewhere?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mfwyatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/22/2010 at 1:41pm
What about routing the edges of the wood to fit? Or how about cutting the H Channel off to make a flat crossmember? Maybe with a dremel? Please help!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote darrklim2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/22/2010 at 1:50pm

Someone or maybe more have routed the edges of their 3/4 inch plywood to fit in the ""H"" Channel. I can"t seem to remember who it was but it appeared to work fine. I think that if you could cut the top off the channel and make it smooth that would work as well. Haven"t seen anyone do that though.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote darrklim2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/22/2010 at 1:59pm

Can"t seem to find the thread I was thinking about but in this thread theone28351
routed the ends of his to fit them in the ""H"" channel.

http://pontoonstuff.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5312&K W=router+jig

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3cflyr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/22/2010 at 2:11pm
You have to route the top of the plywood sheet so it fits flush with the top of the H channel regardless of what thickness plywood you use.  therefore if you use 3/4 and route both sides, your routing has to be very accurate to have a flush deck on top.  Run some test routing on scrap 3/4 first to find an exact setting.  two routers might be helpful, one for bottom one for top rather than having to try to accurately match any resetting.

My H channel was thinner than the other C channels so I"m not sure you have the strength to handle the sheets if you whack off the top.  The H channel does not have as wide a base as C channel and might be harder to put double row of screws in.   But it is possible.

I don"t have a source for C channel.  Except at a local marina who sold me one cross piece that I had to shim it up to match.  Others have found some I think.  5/8 plywood is available online and can be shipped.  It is CCA treated and was about 55 - 57 dollars per sheet plus shipping.  About $514 for my 20 ft deck if I remember correctly.

Trying to save you some time rather than trying to be negative.  Tried to give as much as i could in my rebuild.

Mike


Edited by adakops
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Slow Joe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/22/2010 at 2:28pm

Can you get the Borate plywood in 5/8? Others here have used it with good results. I know VAGent and I think Jenn have both used it in their rebuilds.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mfwyatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/22/2010 at 3:05pm
I can get CCA 3/4" for $83/sheet from lowes.

I can get CCA 5/8" from the site that adakops ordered his from for $53.00/sheet but total cost after shipping and crating it comes to $94/sheet. Here is the break down.

$53/sheet for 5 sheets - $265
$75 Crating Charge
$130.24 Shipping

I would go the borate route but I am still alittle skiddish about it. I want my deck to last as long as possible.
I think I might order the 5/8" because the price difference is worth the decrease in labor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mfwyatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/22/2010 at 11:21pm
Well,

I ordered the 5/8" plywood and started tearing off the rest of the side rails and fence. I managed to get the front of the boat cleared off this evening. It was too dark to take pics when I finished so I will snap some in the morning. I have some buddies coming over tomorrow evening to help me remove the hardtop. Should have the plywood in under 7 days! Carpet, wiring, and lights arrive tomorrow along with the sharkhide cleaner and protectant. Any insight on my post above where I was talking about the water in the tubes? Thanks for all the help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CajunDiver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/23/2010 at 9:07am
Not sure if you can pressure test foam filled logs. There is a lengthy discussion here about pressure testing logs and condensation, etc. Also perhaps could some water be leaking around the threads where the plugs screw in. If thats possible maybe some thread seal or teflon tape could be used.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mfwyatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/23/2010 at 9:55am
I most definitely could be leaking in around the plugs. One of my friends actually thinks that is the only cause because the threads are a little rough. Anyway to test this without taking it to the water? I snapped some pics this morning. As soon as I get them uploaded I will post.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CajunDiver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/23/2010 at 12:07pm
I don"t know how to test this other than pressurizing. Remember though you cant apply much over a pound or two and again I am unsure of the ability to do that with foam filled logs.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/23/2010 at 12:48pm
The last toon I had was a 91" Sundancer with the U shaped logs that were foam filled. I was taking on water in both logs each time out. So I rigged up a fitting to add air from my compressor and checked it for leaks using soap and water in a spray bottle. Can"t remember how many spots were leaking (Almost all were where the brackets met the logs), but it was at least 10. I marked every spot that leaked and took it down to the local welder. He had it fixed up in about 4 hours and the rate was fairly cheap as I recall. Under 200 for sure. I don"t know if there was any problem with the foam from doing this, but I doubt there was since the welder didn"t mention any. If you have it welded, disconnect your battery and remove the drain plugs if you have them before the work begins.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mfwyatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/23/2010 at 1:09pm
Thanks, here are the pictures I promised. As you can see, I had some rotten wood! The last picture is one of my gates. I came home on my lunch break and just couldn"t wait until 5 to see how well the Sharkhide cleaner worked. One word. AMAZING! Spray on, let sit a few minutes, spray off with waterhose. NO ELBOW GREASE! All of my wiring, lights, deck hardware, and glue came in from PontoonStuff today! Carpet arrives tomorrow. I am heading to Lowes tonight to buy paint for the fence.













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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/23/2010 at 1:35pm
Glad to hear all the supplies are in. It"s gonna look sooooo different when you get done.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CajunDiver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/23/2010 at 8:48pm
gonna be a great boat. The front deck will be great for diving
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mfwyatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/23/2010 at 11:34pm
Well, all the railing and the top is off of the boat. Gonna start moving the seats and tearing the console off tomorrow if the rain doesn"t hit us too hard. I"m moving along a lot quicker than I had planned. The girlfriend isn"t liking it. But once I start something like this, I never want to quit! What kind of paint should I use for the fence? I don"t want anything that will break the bank. Should I buy spray cans or just brush it on? The siding is textured. Also, is there anything I need to do to the plywood before I put it on?(besides making sure the crossmembers are square.)
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If its CCA, nothing but the tape on the cross members where the plywood meets together, as the glue will fill in any voids from above. As for paint, I"ll soon be in the same position as you so from what other members have done, it"ll need to be an aluminum etching primer and paint for aluminum. Myself, I was going to use an air compressor paint gun borrowed from a friend and a whole lot of masking tape. I"ll be re-reading some of the rebuilds myself.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Liquid Asset Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/24/2010 at 6:58am

   I used valspar tractor paint from tsc. There just basic colors but you can mix and make just about any that you would want. I used rusolem primer out of a spray can and then applied 2 coat of the paint with a smooth foam roller. The only aluminum primer I could find was water based and could not be used with oil paint. I like the tractor paint becasue you can get a hardner. I think that makes all the difference for durability. It also dries in 2 hours. I thought about spraying and read some where on the net about guys doing the topside of their boats with the roller. The paint looks awsome no roller marks what so ever. It can save a big mess doing it this way. I painted both sides of my fence and they still looks as good as new. My walls are textured also.

     Good luck , shaun

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mfwyatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/25/2010 at 12:48am
The boat is now down to bare aluminum! All plywood has been
removed and the new plywood gets delivered on Monday. I am
leaving town this weekend but will start washing the water line off
the first of next week. I tested a bit of muratic acid today and it ate
right through the water line. Also picked up some Rustoleum marine
topside paint and put down a test coat on one of the gates. I picked
the brightest color red I could find. Looks great so far. Hopefully it
will hold up for awhile. I"ll upload more pics in the morning.
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