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lindaslounge 1991 SunTracker 30 DL DONE

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lindaslounge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/05/2009 at 1:30am
I am sorry the taxes took a little longer than expected and my snowboard bum son came for a vist from Tahoe. I really need to try one more thing before putting it into a process for everyone to try.  I need to find out the grit on the sanding sponge if I can and I purchased a new sanding sponge today that is a finer grit that I want to try on the rails.  The aluminum on the rails seems to be a bit more delicate.  I am going to try the finer sanding sponge and the Zud cleaner on a safe place on the rails this weekend and see if it leaves any scratches.  I tried the sanding sponge I have on one of the hidden rails and it did leave some scratches and so did the 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper, about the same for each.  The sanding sponge worked awesome on the toon, took out the scratches left by the 600 grit, 1000 grit and the steel wool as well as some that were already on the toons.  I took mere seconds to polish up to a chrome like shine with buffer after the surface was shiny clean.  Isn"t this suspensful!!!  I would have it all done but the darn work thing gets in the way of my playing.  One thing I do have to add, using the aluminum jelly was good but the rails were still not clean enough and it took a lot of work with the buffer/grinder to get that finish.  I really think I can cut the number of steps and time to get the same shine.  I am on a mission!
Jeff & Linda
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2006 HD Roadking
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lindaslounge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/12/2009 at 12:31am

OK so here goes, as I stated before I have been experimenting with different products to find the best results and the least amount of steps to get a great shine on the toons and rails.

I still have not been able determine the grit of the sponge I am using. The sponge I am using must be somewhere around 1000 sanding grit. I bought a pack of 5 sponges of different grits at our local Ace Hardware store. I did not see a listing on the package of the different grits of the sponges. Each sponge was a different color, I am using the yellowish color. I went back to the store where I purchased the sponges, unfortunately I bought the last pack on the shelf and they had not restocked. I did not think of locating the receipt while I was there and asking them to pull up the product in their computer. I found my receipt and it is Ace Hardware store product # 1261890. I went online to the Ace Hardware website and entered this number in the search field and it came up with nothing. I purchased an extra fine grit sanding sponge at Home Depot but it is a little too course for my taste. I found many websites that have Ultra fine and Micro fine sanding sponges and I think these are the best to clean and not cause too much scratching. Most of these sanding sponges are found in automotive products and not wood working products.

This picture is a spot that I only sanded with the sponge and polished with the 3M 3000 Cutting Compound.. It left a nice shine but also left some nasty unacceptable remnants of the aluminum rust or oxidation marks.

This picture is a large spot that I started with the 600 grit sand paper, then I used the sanding sponge to clean it up a bit more and then the 3M 3000 Cutting Compound to polish. It took a little longer to polish as I donít think it was clean enough. I did not use the Zud cleanser on this area.

This is what I am going to do and all my rails and toons. This section I used the Zud cleanser with the sanding sponge, rinsed the Zud away and finished any remaining dirty spots with the sponge and polished with the 3M 3000 Cutting Compound. The polishing was a snap on this spot.

You can see the difference in the unclean portion and the reflection of the tree behind me in the polished portion.  Look at the reflection in the middle picture and it is not that clear.  Disregard the reflection of me taking the picture.  Looks like I am standing in front of a fun house mirror.

My apologies I did not get this posted sooner, that nice sun we had has turned to much needed rain as well as we had to help one of our daughts move on one weekend the another daughter move this last Sunday moving and of course the mom and dad factor came into play as we have the truck. Yes, all total we have 4 children and 1 grandchild.  There is always something to do with the kids.

I was able to spend about an hour and a half sanding on one of the forward rails on Sunday before it got too cold. I was not able to do any polishing of the clean rails. I sanded the entire forward starboard fence and gate, top bottom, literally all surfaces to be polished in the hour and a half. It was pretty easy and I believe it is all ready to be polished. I know it will come out great as I tried this on the toons. Jeff brought home his Snap-On 3 inch pneumatic buffer from work for me to use to buff the rails. The big buffer is useable but I have a hard time wielding the thing and getting into those tight corners. Anyone that has the big grinder type of polisher will probably have to polish the corners by hand.  Let me know what you think.



Edited by lindaslounge
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/12/2009 at 12:49am
Linda I agree with you on the small tight areas. scbadiver and I both tried various products and I did use a sander on the roughest crud (that was a mistake I now admit). My advice is no sanding at all if you can at all avoid it. Acid wash is the quickest way to remove most crud and it may need multiple acid baths on the roughest of the rough toons out there but in most cases (like yours), Gords Aluminum polish will cut through the grime but I now agree with scbadiver that Nuvite wins hands down when it comes to mirror shines. You start with F9 if its rough, followed by grade F7 (finer grit) then with Grade S for that beautiful luster and a little goes a very long way. That was the hardest thing I"ve had to master and that"s trying not to put but just 3 little dabs in a 3ft square.  I still got some more work to do on my toons to get that mirror finish to my satisfaction. So I know the drive you"re doing now to obtain that look that satisfies you and trying to get it to a fine science so to speak  - ME TOO but those big cheap buffers sure do help . I"ll bet that you"re like me, cause being up close to the work surface, you can see the minor imperfections and it drives ya nuts, but step back 10yards and it looks pretty darn good don"t it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lindaslounge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/12/2009 at 11:28pm

Hello, WCD you are absolutely right with the sander and stepping back to see an acceptable shine. Our toons look like someone took an orbital sander or used a sanding disc on a grinder to clean them at one time. There are a lot of deeper scratches that are in a swirl pattern. There is no way I am going to get these scratches out without a lot of product and time. These toons are 18 years old and have more that sanding scratches. I am just going for the best shine I can get using the products that were donated to me. This is about the best I can do. This is why I tried to come up with the quickest way of getting an acceptable shine without too much work. I probably would be tempted to spend the next 6 months trying to make these old toons perfect. I researched the Nuvite product and agree that if someone was purchasing the product this is probably the product to purchase. I personally do not want to use the A/C coil cleaner or any type of acid for multiple reasons the biggest being we do not plan to remove the boat from the trailer. I am sure it could not be good on the bottom of the pontoons to sit on the acid soaked bunks. Anyway, I probably should stress again that I used 600 grit wet/dry sand paper using a consistent back and forth motion and was not happy with the fine scratches it left. The more scratches you put on the aluminum the more work to buff them out IF you can get them to buff out. I really wish I could find more info on this sanding sponge I am using. I used a lot of water and a consistent easy motion. I did not like using the wet/dry sand paper at all not even the 1000 grit. The paper was consistently folding and causing mars that would need to be buffed out. The sanding sponge works great as it is flexible and easy to hang onto. I need to find a couple more as I have already pretty much wore this one out just playing already. I am going to take that product number back to Ace Hardware this Saturday and see if they can look it up for me. If I cannot find one there I will probably have to order some of the 1200-1500 grit flexible sponges I found on line.

Jeff & Linda
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CajunDiver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/12/2009 at 11:45pm
Linda I feel your pain. It was 100 degrees when I was doing mine with 100% humidity and I am sure your cold weather is just as bad. I did find if I could get the black residue off I could get a shine but it involved alot of buffer wheel changes. At some point you just have to let it slide. I did find that the Sharkhide helped fill in some of the light scratches. Seems like I could polish them out but it left alot of black residue which I tried cutting with diesel and lacquer thinner with some result. I used a standard polishing stick from Tractor Supply with a pad mounted on a 4" grinder. I wish I knew how those truckers got those tanker trucks to shine. I think they are aluminum and it should be a similar process
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/13/2009 at 12:24am

That pack (1261890) contains one each of these:

These are 3 X 5 X 1 inch: 

1221597

1221514

1221449

These are 3 X 4 X 1 inch

1221456

1221431

Might help narrow it down. I"m betting it"s the 320 grit. Those sponges differ in grit, as opposed to regular sandpaper. Much finer..



Edited by rickdb1
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lindaslounge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/13/2009 at 12:39am
Hi briankinley, I know the truck wash professionals use jewelers rouge to polish the aluminum rims on trucks.  When I looked up the Nuvite product I found it is used on tankers and airplanes.  Anyway, the black residue was my major problem also but it seems the more gunk I get off the toons the less black residue I have to deal with.  When the black residue starts to build up I would put a little more rubbing compound and hit it again with the buffer, it cuts the residue.  It only takes a couple little spots of cutting compound at a time and working in a small area at a time.  I think WCD mentioned using a little of the compound in his last post.  The black residue is supposed to come off with a little soap and water but I found this did not work very well and the aluminum was not really polished good enough under the residue.  Oh yes, I have been playing a lot with the polishing.  Now I am ready to get er done.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CajunDiver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/13/2009 at 2:24pm
I could not get the black residue off with anything. I even tried lacquer thinner and diesel fuel which helped but not much. Buffing it out was all i could do. I just hope this sharkhide holds up for 4 or 5 yrs because i dont think i have it in me to do the polishing again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/13/2009 at 4:03pm
Bet you didn"t use flour, the kind you cook with, it comes right off with it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/13/2009 at 4:05pm
Can you explain the flour thing, cause now I"m confused.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lindaslounge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/13/2009 at 4:52pm
I know what the flour is for ::::  most things made with flour, ya know, pies, cakes, brownies, biscuits and jelly -- anything sweet to snack on, sit back, scratch your head and wonder what the heck to do next!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/13/2009 at 5:06pm
Do you throw it at the logs, spread it on there and light a fire under the logs, roll the logs in it and make a huge loaf of bread, possibly some sort of Tortilla concoction. Inquiring minds want to know.. 

Edited by rickdb1
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scbadiver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/13/2009 at 5:23pm

You do actually kinda throw it at the log!   I put about 2 cups of flour in an old sock and then slapped it against the black stuff, then wiped with a soft clean cloth, turning frequently as "they" say. I also just sprinkled a heavy amount onto a clean rag and rubbed it directly on the thicker stuff. Something about the flour binds the black grease and allows it to wipe away clean.

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lindaslounge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/13/2009 at 9:11pm

rickdb1, that was funny!!!  I had tears I was laughing so hard. 

I found the 1200-1500 grit sanding sponges on line at

http://www.continentalclay.com/detail.php?cat_id=398&sub _categoryID=128&PID=1202

They have the 900 to 1000 also that would be good to start with on heavier gunk.  I put 1200 grit sanding sponge in the seach bar of my internet browser and it gave me multiple sites to order these sponge pads.  These are not the product I used but will probably be what I will purchase.  You can certainly search and see the other products of this nature yourself. I still cannot find the one sponge I already used anywhere.  I think it must have been something the hardware store had for who knows how long and now it is replaced by something else.    I will always test any new sponge or pad on a hidden portion of the toon or railing before going to a spot in the wide open.  I tested my sponges and sand paper on the underneath side of the rail where it contacts the floor.  I crawled in between the toons to test on the toons. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/13/2009 at 11:08pm
Ditto on that!! Always look forward to your next post..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lindaslounge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/14/2009 at 12:02pm

I am happy to entertain. You all give me encouragement.  Jeff never thinks it a good idea to encourge me.  I think that means I will never shut up.  My sister in law says I always have a story to tell.  I am sure her comment was not meant to be a compliment.

Here is my :: fun::

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Family, friends, good times, fantastic scenery - - My definition of fun ! !



Edited by lindaslounge
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lindaslounge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/14/2009 at 1:40pm
Originally posted by rickdb1 rickdb1 wrote:

That pack (1261890) contains one each of these:

rickdb1 you are the man of the hour in my book.  You rock!!!!  You are absolutely correct about the difference in grit between the sponge and the sandpaper.  The sponge might say 320 grit but it in no way compares to the courseness of a piece of sand paper that says 320.  Additionally, I purchased a 320 grit sanding sponge from Home Depot and it is a heavier grit than the one from Ace Hardware.  The 320 sponge I bought from Home Depot is a Norton 3X brand.  I used this one first for rusted areas under hardware and on a couple of places that had heavy oxidation.  Then I used the gold one to finish cleaning it up.  To me the gold sponge feels a little finer than 1000 grit sandpaper.  SOOOOO  there is also a grit difference from one manufacturer to another.  The sponge in the kit you described is the gold colored ultra fine sponge.  3M"s ultra fine sponge is rated at 1200-1500.  I just don't know what it feels like.  I was a little hesitant to voice my opinion on the differences because I don"t like being inaccurate and I thought it was all in my head or perception.  Whoo-Hoo I will have to tell Jeff that I really am not crazy.  Encourgement again,  Jeff will soon ban me from this forum.  I will try to get one of those 1221597 sponges and see if it the same.  I am on my way right now to Ace.



Edited by lindaslounge
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lindaslounge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/14/2009 at 2:37pm

I just got back from Ace and they did not have any in stock.  I ordered some and they will be in the store on Tuesday.  I am sure this is the one.  Thank you so much rickdb1!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lindaslounge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/14/2009 at 11:28pm

Jeff and I put the shine to the forward starboard fence today. This is the fence that I cleaned and sanded last Sunday using the Zud cleanser and the 320 grit Ace sanding sponge.  

This is the port forward fence, without a shine.  We did a little hand polishing on the very top but .....

...nothing like the shine put on the starboard fence we laid down today.

It was getting a little late in the day and we were expecting rain at any time so Jeff helped me out today.  Jeff used the big grinder/buffer and I used the little pneumatic buffer for the clean up.  

Jeff hit all surfaces with the big boy and I came behind him to get into corners and around the hinges and other grooves.  The 3M 3000 created a lot of the black residue and I would come behind Jeff with the little buffer, add a couple of drops of the 3M compound and clean up the residue.  Halfway through the polishing we ran out of the 3M 3000 Extra Cut.  Jeff had brought home a gallon of P&S Smart System Extra Cut Aggressive Compound that he purchased from work.  Using the 3M 3000 was much slower than this new product and I thought the 3M 3000 was pretty fast working.  The P&S Extra Cut left little residue and REALLY worked quickly to bring out this shine.  We took the fence into the yard, got a bucket of hot water with ordinary dish soap and cleaned all the remaining black residue off the fence surface and railing.  Jeff used a regular dish rag to start cutting the residue with the hot water (not too hot to touch).  Most of the residue literally washed away as he hit it with the soapy water.  I had tried this with water out of the hose but I guess the warm water was the trick.  Jeff kept telling me this was the way to do it and he was right.  I came behind him with my cordless ScumBuster and the thicker residue came right off. I used the scrubber around the hinges and corners and got all the residue off completely.  We did have to use a tooth brush to get into the 90 degree corners.  I used the scrubber to clean up the residue on the fence surface.  There is a minute amount of residue stuck in the texture of the fence panel.  The water was getting cold.  I am very pleased with the outcome.  Of course, it is not perfect but as you can see the shine is very acceptable.  I think from start to finish on this fence took 3.5 hours.  This includes the cleaning/sanding, polishing, and cleaning again.  I sanded alone and then the two of us worked together on the polishing.  The entire fence is completed, inside and out.  These fences are 13 feet 9 inches, multiply this by all the surfaces and you come up with alot of feet of railing on this one fence.  I don"t think this amount of time is too bad for the results obtained.  I am sitting here looking at the fence and it is sooooo pretty.  Yes, everything comes in the house.  It was too dark outside to take the pictures.  You might be a redneck - if you have pontoon boat parts in your living room!

 

 



Edited by lindaslounge
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Man that looks great guys. I think doing the rails/fence would be the worst. Just way too much detail work and I really don"t think I"d have the patience. Sounds like you are getting this down to a science and progress is speeding up as you learn all the tricks. Nice job and...... Yes, you might be a redneck if you have pontoon parts in your LR... But at least they are nice looking parts..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lindaslounge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/15/2009 at 12:24am
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lindaslounge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/12/2009 at 2:28am

Hello!!! I thought it was about time to update the thread. Where to start!! We have been continuing the polishing of the rails and it is going very well. I stopped using the Zud Cleanser, it was an extra step that was not really necessary. The top sides of the railings buffed without using the sanding sponge or any cleaner other than the dish soap I used to take off the surface dirt and dust. I used the sanding sponge for the areas of the rails where oxidation or aluminum rust had collected. I seem to be making some real progress now. I have the fence parts that surround the fuel tanks completed on both port and starboard sides. I have the two 2 x 4 aluminum studs that support the forward edges of the roof completed, all of the trim that surrounds the roof, one forward fence section (pictured on an earlier post) and the top edge of the roof railing completed. Jerry helped a bunch finishing some of these pieces with the Metal Gloss Sealer we have on hand. Oh and the tops of the toons! Jeff wants to get started with the wiring and get the deck on this weekend. I wanted to at least get the tops of the toons in between the splash guards polished as it is easier without the deck in place. I scrubbed all sides and tops of all 3 toons this Sunday with diluted Krud Kutter. The sludge wiped right off. I figured I scrubbed 240 feet of pontoon. This is adding the outside 30 feet of both outer toons, the outer 30 feet of each, the top 30 feet of each and the 3 sides of the 20 foot inner toon. There was river sludge on both sides of the middle toon and on each inside of the outer toons. We wiped off the outside of the toons when we were out on the water all the time. I would get into one of my floaties, tie my floatie to the boat with a long rope, tie my scrub brush to a short rope connected to the floatie and would push myself around the boat and wash the toons using only the lake water. I used our car washing brush on the outside of the toons and had to use my hand and a washing glove on all the inside and tops of the toons. I had 5 band aids on my fingers when I went to work on Monday. I didnít use the car washing glove until I had already nicked the heck out of my fingers on the splash guards. I pinched my thumb in between the sheet metal and the rail of one of the side fences and had a nice sized blood blister on Saturday, ouch! Jeff knocked out polishing the tops of the toons in one evening after work this week. No additional cleaning or sanding was necessary to polish the tops of the toons and they were free of oxidation or scum build up.

Jeff made the decision to seal the under side of the deck with 2 coats of oil based cover coat primer and a good coat of oil based enamel high gloss paint. Jerry and I painted all eight deck boards, 3 coats, on Saturday.

We took the helm and the two dining chairs the upholsterer yesterday to get their cool new patriotic covering. I made this picture of what the seats will look like once completed.

These colors are not true to the fabric we picked.  The pinkish color is really a deep red or burgandy and the blue is a deeper blue.  This is also the best job I can do with the touch up I did this at work real quick this morning to send to the upholsterer.

Unfortunately our camera went missing this weekend so I do not have any more pics to post at the moment.  We just noticed tonight we can"t find the camera. 

Happy rebuild to all and to all a good night!

Jeff & Linda
'91 Suntracker Party Hut 30 DL
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2006 HD Roadking
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CajunDiver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/12/2009 at 8:49am
Great work! Looking good!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zboating12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/12/2009 at 11:23am
Nice work on those rails, looks great!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lindaslounge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/15/2009 at 3:52am

Thank you for the compliments.  One of the major changes we are making is the aft section of the boat.  The aft section had two seats and the bed.  The bed was created by pulling a board up from behind the seats, laying the board over the top of the seats and unfolding the mattress over board.  The seats were covered and the storage compartments under the seats were impossible to access unless the bed was folded up or someone held up the bed while another person fought with lifting the seat and reaching into the dark storage area to try to find that one little thing you needed from the compartment.  We usually leave home on Friday after work and do not return home until some time on Sunday most weekends.  We assemble the bed on Friday and leave it that way until will pullout of the water.  This is our fix to the wasted space of the unused seats and difficult to access storage compartments.  The bed will more or less be a permanent bed, actually something like you find in an RV or camp trailer.  It will have the hydraulic actuators underneath to hold the bed up when accessing the much larger storage compartments, the fuel tanks and the access panel to the motor.  The battery and the oil injection tank WAS located under one of these seats.  We removed the oil injection system and mix our own fuel as the injection system was malfunctioning.  We tried to fix it but chose to remove the entire system.  We are relocating the battery to a forward storage compartment.  The bed will have a lock to keep it from flying up while traveling.  We have been talking about making a cover that snaps over the aft cabin top and mattress to cover during trailering.  We already had our mattress in the middle of the highway during rush hour traffic once and would like to avoid this happening again. 

Here goes with the pics::  First Jeff and Jerry had to put a few of the deck sheets on the boat and assemble the aft fencing to fit the frame of the new cabinet and bed support.  Jeff made diagrams and took measurements before we disassembled the boat.  Jeff did not want to take any chances in welding the frame and cutting the wood pieces.  He wanted to be able to tack the frame together and fit it to the boat before the final welding.

    

Oh yes, the boys enjoyed a couple of adult beverages whilst reassembling!

This first piece of the framework is the front of the cabinet/bed support.

     

Fitting the framework to ensure correct measurements and everything is plumb.

    

All welded together and ready for primer and painting.

         

The next picture is the face and sliding doors of the cabinet/bed support.  It is a bit difficult to imagine what these pieces are for and what this thing will look like but trust me, this is very cool! The middle portion of this cabinet will have two banks of sliding baskets.  The doors to access the sliding baskets will slide open in aluminum tracks.  Think about a modular kitchen or clothes closet with the sliding drawers and baskets.  The doors will have a latch and stops to prevent them from opening or sliding from one direction to the other during trailering.  Both the port end and the starboard end will be large cabinets accessible by lifting the bed.  The parts in the next pic are being painted white to protect the wood as well as make the interior of the cabinets brighter.  We are thinking about installing some small LED type lights in the cabinets.

We ordered extra fence risers to put under the frame to keep it from sitting tight against the carpet.  We are also putting air vents in the fronts of the large side storage compartments to keep the compartments ventilated.  One bank of the drawers will be for our clothes and the other for pantry items.  The entire seat assembly and battery weighed 280 lbs.  This frame weighs 40 lbs.  We will weigh the entire cabinet once assembled with the baskets and doors.  We are certain it will not weigh as much as the old seats and battery.  We had the clothing and pantry items in the same area when in use last season.  We think this entire change will lighten the aft section a little.  The front of the cabinets is Oak and will match the upgrades we made on the original galley cabinet.  We are extending the galley cabinet to attach to this cabinet.  This will give me another bank of sliding baskets next to the sink and lengthen my galley counter top.  We are relocating the fresh water tank to under the deck, on top of the port pontoon.  We are creating this tank out of PVC irrigation pipe that is rated for potable water.  I will have to take pics of what we are doing and hopefully post tomorrow.  We just picked up the fittings for the fill end and the pick up end of the new water tank.  The original fresh water and grey water tanks are located under the sink.  This will distribute some more weight a little forward, give me a little more fresh water and free up some room under the sink for stuff.

FYI ***  check out the new post I added to the Old Decal Removal thread in the sticky note section.

Good night!



Edited by lindaslounge
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CajunDiver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/15/2009 at 7:04pm
Thats a great idea Linda and looking good! I don"t think you will have a weight issue. My entire frame is built of tubing like that and mine seems to be doing good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lindaslounge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/15/2009 at 8:18pm

We are ultimately trying to lighten the load in the rear as we sit low in the water when the fuel tanks are full.  I won"t have to worry so much about the provisions I am putting in the aft section.  I used to put all my can goods in one of the very forward storage compartments but was always having to move someone to get into the seat compartment.  I like to have extra on board as I never know what we want to eat or how many will need to eat.  We had a plastic locker type cabinet in the hallway attached to the head wall for staples and paper goods but it was not rated for traveling 60 miles an hour down the freeway and we had major issues with the doors blowing off.  Even though we had bungees on the top middle and lower portion, the doors would stretch the bungees and things would go flying out the back of the boat.  One time I was following Jeff in my car and a whole roll of paper towels sarted whipping around and flew at me.  Good thing it was me behind the boat.  We had to tie one of our 6" plastic tables to the front of this cabinet when trailering for about the last 10 times we went out.  Just another one of those funny little stories and we have so many.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lindaslounge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/16/2009 at 1:00am

    

Jeff cut the final panels today for the cabinet/bed frame.  I had painted some of the panels and now one again have more painting to accomplish.  The sliding baskets are not actually mounted yet.  Jeff wanted to fit them in before attaching the panels to the frame to ensure the fit.  There will be three baskets in each row when finished.  Our grand daughter had to get into the pictures.

    

These pics show the oak panels that will be mounted on the ends.

    

...... and there you have it.  The semi completed storage cabinet/bed frame.  The top and bottom trim is 2 inch x 2 inch aluminum L angle.  The doors will slide in this trim.  We still have to stain the oak panels.  There will be a door handle on each door and a matching latch.  We are looking for wheels to mount in the doors to assist in sliding.  We were looking at screen or closet door wheels but are hoping to find brass wheels a little bigger in diameter than the closet dor wheels.  We are looking for 1 1/2 inch diameter x 3/16 inch thick bearing or bushing wheels.  Anyone have any ideas where to find these type of wheels?  I suppose I could find some on line if I knew what they are called or what type of application they are really used for.

I think I need to polish that aluminum L angle before Jeff puts it all together.



Edited by lindaslounge
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lindaslounge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/16/2009 at 1:39am

         

This is the 3 inch PVC water tank on top of the pontoon.  The pipe fits perfectly in between the deck supports.  The fill end is at the forward end of the boat and the pick up/drain end is aft.

    

This is the fill end with cap on and cap off.  Jeff will add a pitcock on the cap for an air vent.  I was going to post the pic with the cap on only but decided I needed to show off the shine on the top of the toons.  Check out the water drops and the reflection of the fill end in the toon!!!  Amazing shine!

    

This is the pick up/drain end.  The tube from the faucet at the galley sink will come down through the floor and screw onto the 1/2 inch pipe to water hose fitting.  The ball valve is installed to drain the tank if needed or to flush the tank.  (This one is an action shot with water draining). The tank sits level when the boat is on the trailer but when we are on the water the pickup end will naturally sit lower than the fill end.  I should not have any problems with water pick up.  This tank hold just over 5 gallons.  Jeff plans to put some type of rubber under the tank in a couple of places to prevent the tank from vibrating on the toon and to lock it in place.



Edited by lindaslounge
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dahogman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/16/2009 at 1:33pm
Very creative work, great job on the boat.
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