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greauxpete 1993 Monark Suncaster Rebuild DONE!

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greauxpete View Drop Down
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    Posted: 08/03/2011 at 6:03pm
I have a 1993 Monark Suncaster 240 Fish Pontoon boat and the carpet is shredded after a trip on the interstate. I am planning on going with the marine vinyl flooring.

The plywood looks great everywhere, except for the very front 4x8 sheet where the previous owner
mounted a trolling motor without sealing the bolt holes.

I was thinking of either replacing the sheet with MCA treated BC grade plywood which is aluminum safe
or drilling out the rotted 1/2" holes to 1.00" holes with a hole saw and filling with fiber glass resin.

What are your thoughts on:

1. filling with resin. do you have recommendations on what filler to use if any.
2. If I decide to replace with MCA plywood BC grade do you see any issues using MCA plywood.
(See the link to the MCA plywood treatement data below)
3. What are some recommendations about filling any cracks (between plywood joints)
before laying down the vinyl to prevent any gaps from showing. What filler should i use?

Here are some pics of the rotted area:

Top of Deck:









Bottom of Deck:



The rest of the deck looks fine:



FYI - Here is some information on the MCA treatment of the plywood:

Thanks,

Steve

***edited link to be embedded with specific topic***

Edited by Wildcat Dude - 08/03/2011 at 6:48pm
1993 Monark Suncaster 240 Fish
1993 90 HP Mercury Outboard
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WoodenPontoon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/03/2011 at 7:41pm
Filling the holes after over drilling may not be a bad idea.  It will certainly be much less expensive.
With the unsealed holes, it is possible that there might be some delamination of the plywood around them.  Check very carefully!
 
I would not recommend using a polyester fiberglass resin.  Polyestere resin contains very small holes which will eventuallly allow moisture through.  I strongly recommend epoxy resin.  You should get a slow cure hardener as it will provide better working time and longer life.  Don't use the fast cure epoxy kits.  They are not waterproof.  If you try to fill the holes, Tape wax paper on the bottom side to hold in the resin.  It will be quite runny.
 
You also might consider using a hole saw to cut a plug for each hole and epoxying those in place.
 
Good Luck,
Dan
Dan Williams
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2009 22 1/2' Hand-Crafted
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote greauxpete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/03/2011 at 8:13pm
WoodenPontoon (or anyone else) can you recommend a specific slow dry epoxy resin product.
I like the idea about using the wooden plug as well - I am strongly considering it.

Also - wood you agree the deck is in good shape?

Thanks again WoodenPontoon
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WoodenPontoon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/04/2011 at 12:06am
I used M.A.S. epoxy on my boat for several reasons associated with applying multiple layers or coats.  This stuff is expensive.
 
West Systems products are also good and are less costly.  You will not need very much.  I think a pint would be more than enough.
 
Buy some disposable plastic measuring cups for mixing the resin and hardener.  The mix ratio is important for proper curing.
 
Your deck seemed to be in good shape in the pictures, but poke it gently with an ice pick to make sure that it is solid.
 
if you have any questions as you proceed, I should be able to help!
 
Good luck,
Dan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TeeHee65 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/04/2011 at 1:43am
My suggestion - whatever Dan says! By the way, wecome to the forum.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/04/2011 at 1:52am
You took the words right outta my mouth, he was in good hands right from the start after my post Thumbs Up
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 DAN THE WOOD MAN !!!!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PS-Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/04/2011 at 10:58am
I gotta say...if I was going to tear down a boat all the way to the wood, I would replace it all and be done with it.  I would be crushed if my new flooring and seats out lived my old deck and I had to do it again prematurely...
Feel free to contact me for help on your project!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote greauxpete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/07/2011 at 2:45pm
Another option I have been thinking about is using
Choicedek composite deck boards for the floor
(remove the plywood):

Choicedek

They recommend 16" center supports and 1/4" spacing
Between boards.

96" wide/5.5" board width ~ 36 @ 12 ft long boards

36 boards @ $22 = $792

The cost is Slightly more than replacing carpet with vinyl at ~ $660 with glue.

Here is a guy that did it:
Synthetic deck pontoon

Any thought?

Edited by greauxpete - 08/22/2011 at 6:46am
1993 Monark Suncaster 240 Fish
1993 90 HP Mercury Outboard
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CajunDiver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/07/2011 at 4:24pm
I used a similar product on the exposed deck area of my toon. One thing to consider is that it weighs alot more than carpeted plywood. If you are already low in the water this would definitely cause issues and if your not low you need to see how much weight it would add. I calculated this on my rebuild and offset the weight by removing furniture in the bow plus some other stuff. I still eventually added a 3rd pod in the front as the deck tended to want to crankbait when we put a load on it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote greauxpete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/21/2011 at 7:05am
OK here is an update on my vinyl floor conversion:

Most of fencing removed:



All of fencing and carpet removed:



Patched 1/2" holes in front of deck with epoxy resin:
(This is before I sanded flush - it actually worked out pretty good)



This is the deck sanded down and ready for the vinyl installation:
(I rented a walk behind sander form Home Depot - it took about an hour to complete)



I plan on laying down the vinyl today. I am going to get a 1/8" trawl
and rent a linoleum roller and get a friend to help. If anyone has any tips
on installing the vinyl please feel free to chime in.

From what I have read on this forum and others, the preferred method seems
to be:

1. Make sure deck is free of saw dust and particles.
(Not sure if I should wipe the deck  down with acetone first?)
2. Layout vinyl on deck - justify one straight edge to one side of boat and let other side overlap.
(Boat is 8' wide and vinyl is 8.5' wide)
3. Fold vinyl in half (length wise)
4. Add weights to one end to keep it in place.
5. Pour adhesive onto exposed deck in "serpentine" pattern in approximately 1" wide
bands of glue.
6. Trawl the glue over the entire exposed section of the deck (in my case 12' x 8' section).
7. Let glue tack up for about 5 minutes.
8. Unroll vinyl onto the glued surface and use roller to force the "felt backing" into the glue by
rolling form the center of the boat outward (each side) to force out any air bubbles.
9. Repeat for the other half of the boat.
10. Let dry and keep out of the rain for 24-48 hours.








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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote greauxpete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/21/2011 at 6:48pm


Glued down vinyl in 95F temps - the glue was tacky immediately.Used the linoleum roller over the entire deck a couple of times.. It appears the glue has already established a good bond. Trawling the glue down is a messy job.



Edited by greauxpete - 08/23/2011 at 11:12am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/21/2011 at 6:58pm
Better man than me. I was sweating bullets just determining the boundry of my dog's new electric fence LOL and it was only 90 out (I think)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote greauxpete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/22/2011 at 6:42am
FYI - I did end up wiping
down the entire deck with
acetone.
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Vinyl Trimmed:



Closeup:



Will start re-installing the angle rails this evening..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CajunDiver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/23/2011 at 8:56pm
Looking good!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/23/2011 at 9:08pm
Have you tested bare feet on that vinyl yet in that hot sun???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote greauxpete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/24/2011 at 11:21am
Fencing refurb:

I have the aluminum sheeting which is crimped into the channel grooves
as shown below:



When I first bought the boat a couple of areas were dented so I riveted
vinyl to the outside to cover up the blemishes. Now I am thinking about
removing the existing aluminum sheet (by using sbaumann14's method of
using a hammer and a glazers knife to open up the channel grooves to free
up the aluminum sheeting) and riveting either vinyl or aluminum sheet
to the inside of the aluminum tubing.


Her are some pics of how I covered the existing aluminum with vinyl:



Has anyone tried to remove their aluminum sheet and rivet it to the tubing?
Has anyone tried to do the same with vinyl? I would think aluminum would be better
than vinyl since it is more stiff.  I noticed in Wildcat dudes rebuilt thread he used the
vinyl coil from pro trim. Are there any tips you can provide? This would be the last step in making the boat almost completely new.





Edited by greauxpete - 08/24/2011 at 11:21am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PS-Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/24/2011 at 11:50am
You can knock the old stuff out with just a rubber mallet.  A regular old putty knife works to open up the channels, just don't pry too much.  You can break the lip.  I suggest about 1/8th inch.  Cut the new metal to size, and slide it in.  Some silicone spray lube works wonders!  Tap the lip back down with a hammer and a dolly and your done.  Easy.  I used to have a rebuild thread here where I re-did an entire boat, but it looks like it's gone now.  Here are some pics of the high lights...
 
 
 


Edited by Mr.Diesel - 08/24/2011 at 11:51am
Feel free to contact me for help on your project!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/24/2011 at 12:17pm
Ty, you didn't look too hard LOL, but the search function is thrown off by punctuation marks, its why I don't like members using any characters in their nym. Makes searching harder than it is. Steve, he's referring to his fisher rebuild found here http://www.pontoonstuff.com/psforum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5637&title=mrdiesel-20-fisher-rebuild

Edited by Wildcat Dude - 08/24/2011 at 12:17pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote greauxpete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/24/2011 at 12:59pm
WOW - that looks well done.

I might be able to pull that off!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PS-Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/24/2011 at 1:25pm
That's funny, the way I searched it won't show up.  I clicked my own name, clicked on "View members posts", then "Search for Topics This Member Started" (check the box by my name) and I only get about 6 topics.  I just figured the Fisher was so old it got wiped out during one the issues with the forum.  I keep thinking I should change my user name since I haven't owned or bought any deisels for about 2 years now LOL

Edited by Mr.Diesel - 08/24/2011 at 1:26pm
Feel free to contact me for help on your project!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/24/2011 at 2:19pm
It defaults to the last 6 months.
 
Find members posts, 
(Search Forum) Pontoon rebuild projects,
(Find Posts) = Last year 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/24/2011 at 4:17pm
If you ever decide you want to change your user name, just let me know, it'll change on all your posts too so it doesn't affect them (except the topic names of course, but that's easy to change). We should change it to Master, short and sweet and to the point as you've mastered this pontoon stuff as far as everyone here is concerned LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote new2boating Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/25/2011 at 9:13pm
I agree with Charles. Mr. Diesel should change his name to "Master" as his slogan is incorrect...it should read "Jack of all trades, master of them ALL!" You are in good hands with any advise he provides.

I did just remove the aluminum from my sides last Saturday as I had some places that I couldn't get straightened up to look good. I used my foot to tap from the outside just a little. It didn't take much to start it coming out of the channels then I just pulled it out easily while working my way around. My channels were not open over 1/8 inch in any place. I'm planning to wrap metal back over the outside (to help cover up some holes and blemishes and like the look of some I've seen with metal on outside) so I went ahead and tapped the channel back shut before painting the railing. I did use the hammer for that . I used a putty knife to clean up the channels first. I may regret closing them up as Mr. Diesel makes it look so easy to put metal back in the channels that maybe I should've went that route.
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Side Rail install:
(Used nails to line everything up before bolting the corners down)


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1993 90 HP Mercury Outboard
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote greauxpete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/02/2011 at 10:47am
I removed the dedicated radio and added this portable stereo.
Used a small deepcycle battery that runs for at least 8 hours.
Added this bluetooth connector and 12 volt outlets to plug the bluetooth and phone charger
so now the iphone acts as a remote control:




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Finished:




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/12/2011 at 10:36am
say it ain't so, you can't be done - I don't see any furniture Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote greauxpete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/12/2011 at 5:17pm
Yep - she is done - the furniture is stored indoors for the season -
besides the clear deck makes a nice deck to setup a dome tent
for camping this fall.


1993 Monark Suncaster 240 Fish
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