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Topic Closedcleaning toons

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/13/2010 at 4:15pm

Originally posted by rhostetler rhostetler wrote:

Thanks rickdb1  by not polishing after sanding will this allow rails to "dull" that much quicker?

Like Moto said, Not if you put this on them. Will last for years...

 



Edited by rickdb1
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/18/2010 at 9:50pm
Hi Ray,

I had some heavily oxidized rails, and put a lot of hours into restoring them.  Used some naveljelly for aluminum, and that took off the heavy oxidation (saves sanding it off), but at that point you have to go ahead an polish them as they turn white.  I used some 3m marine aluminum polish and then buffed it with Metal Gloss auto polish.  And now I use the Sharkhide religously....Check out my rebuild (Jenn"s Harris) and also LindasLounge rebuild thread, she talks a lot about polishing her rails.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/03/2011 at 5:31pm
Thought I would add to this thread about cleaning after polishing and sealing with Sharkhide. My boat has been sitting in the water for a year and I pulled it out this weekend. Was covered in algae. It got dried good on the 5 HR ride home and then sat in the yard for almost a week. Went out this PM and decided to try the pressure washer. The first pic shows a sample of what the toon looked like before. I didn't have the fore thought to take a pic of the cleaned area before I started but this is typical of then entire boat before I started.
 
This next pic is after I had made a light pass then a heavy pass with the pressure washer. The area on the left is what came off on the first pass when the toons were dry.
 
 
This final pic is of a third pass with the pressure washer after lightly brushing with Simple Green. Other than the area close to the boards it came off so easily and quick compared to acid washing. I thank the Sharkhide for this and bet I would have had to acid wash to clean otherwise. I ran out of gas so will have to post more later.


Edited by briankinley2004 - 03/03/2011 at 5:33pm
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/07/2011 at 7:41pm
I will also say the polishing makes a substantial difference. I used same methods on insides of logs where not polished and did not acheive the same results. I had significant stains there. I guess the polishing does something to the logs that makes them easier to clean. I put sharkhide on the insides even though they were not polished but it those areas didn't come as clean
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/07/2011 at 7:49pm
Has anyone tried spraying the sharkhide on their logs? We have a couple of places here in town that manufacture aluminum trailers, and I was talking to one of the guys that told me they spray the sharkhide on every trailer. I would think that would prevent streaks, and would have a more even covering.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/23/2011 at 7:57pm
Yes color does matter or at least it used to when I was in the AC business. Don't get evaporator coil cleaner. It used to be green and is not as agressive as the pink cleaner is. Muratic acid will work also but dilute first until you get the right mixture where it cleans but doesn't eat a hole in something. The purple or blue may work as long as it is CONDENSOR coil cleaner and not  for evaporator coil. Also you may want to pm Kartracer on here. He can hook you up with an aluminum cleaner that he may be able to send via mail.

Edited by briankinley2004 - 03/23/2011 at 7:58pm
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/07/2011 at 9:13pm
I think you can leave it as is or at least thats what most have done that I have seen painted. Only thing is I'm not sure how long term exposure to salt would affect them. I know they are not submerged but they will still get spray on them.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/29/2011 at 8:38pm
hi di u guys dampen the wool pad before bffing with nuvite thanks for the info billlyb
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/29/2011 at 9:28pm
Personally I wouldn't, as I would think that would smear it and its designed to cut. You'd be really surprised how far that nuvite stuff goes. Course that's a really good question and I'd be interested to see if anybody has really tried that to see what it would do. I also notice on the nuvite instructions here, they don't mention wetting the pad. Only to wash the pad afterwards.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/03/2011 at 9:38am
I've never used Nuvite, so I can't specifically answer your question, but on most abrasives and waxing compounds they do recommend dampening the pad first to help it absorb the buffing liquid and not sling it all off.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/03/2012 at 2:35pm
Thread closed to general questions
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