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Direct Link To This Post Topic: cleaning toons
    Posted: 03/12/2008 at 12:05am
Based on the grades you"re getting, it must not be too bad dirty. Personally for the savings I"d get at least the 1/2lb jar (maybe even 1lb) of the F7 and 1/2 lb of the S. Are you going to put Sharkhide on them later?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/14/2008 at 9:22am
Hi Puddlepirate! Welcome aboard! Mine had deposits too that partially came off with the coil cleaner but they were thick. I ended up using a small palm sander with 320 grit to get the crusties off. I used a little more than 1/2 pound of Nuvite F7 to polish out the whole 28" and the nose cones inside and out. The S goes a lot further I found. I still have quite a bit of the half pound jar left.  The F7 and some elbow grease did take out all the sanding marks. I'd recommend getting one pound F7 and half pound S and you'll have some left for touch ups later. Good luck and post us some pics when you can!

Edited by scbadiver
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/04/2008 at 2:24pm
I would suspect it is similar to the pink stuff but I have no experience with it. My best suggestion is to try a small area underneath and see what happens. Be careful and wear gloves, long sleeves and safety goggles or at least glasses when handling the stuff!
Robbie
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/04/2008 at 3:02pm
Well, thats about right BUT, the main thing is DON"T LET IT DRY ON THERE!!  My attack was spray it on, wait 3-4 minutes (drink half a beer) then rinse. I did about a 4-5 foot section at a time. It took about a 12 pack!
Robbie
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/09/2008 at 1:42pm

I bought Alum-Brite from Tractor Supply locally, haven"t even used half a gallon yet (bought a gallon), I went full strength initially on the tough places, then later mixed 50/50. Now I"m working it with Gord"s Polish (if it"ll ever quit raining on my days off).



Edited by Wildcat Dude - 05/03/2012 at 2:39pm
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/17/2008 at 12:47pm

Seems like you have it all together Brian! I had to get the 320 grit at Rockler Woodworking, it was the only place I could find that had it locally. I got the 400 grit black stuff for wet/dry sanding at the auto paint store. I would sand after the acid wash too, it"s easier then because the acid removes the tough oxidation off the top surface.

I would not recommend using the power washer to hose off the acid either, the chances of it blowing around are much higher with that. I would just use the garden hose with a good stream but no real pressure, JMO for safety.

Once you have it clean and acid washed and dry, make SURE its dry. you can start the buffing. Use little dots of F7 and work them around doing small sections, 2 foot or so at a time. If you haven"t looked at it there is excellent instructions on the Nuvite site for using thier stuff. After you do the whole boat with the F7 you should wash it down with warm soapy water to remove any grit and grease left in it. Again, after it is dry start over with the S grade. The S goes way quicker and easier I thought. Also an old screwdriver or file is good to clean out your buff when it starts to clog but be carefull when doing it!  Anything else? Let me know! Good luck and don"t forget the before and after pictures for us!!

Robbie
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/17/2008 at 11:34pm

Well I can offer advice on the pictures, don"t use camera software - just get a media card reader, one of those that covers 10-15 different cards for about $15-25, put the card in, (I use manual mode, move - not copy the files), I then use either IE to view but if you have Office 2003 or 2007, then Office Picture Manager works good for viewing, resizing, renaming, etc.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/18/2008 at 10:02am

I"d say your wood removal plan will work fine Brian. I did mine close to that way. I just set the blade, an old blade, on my circular saw about 3/4 inch and cut all the way across between the cross members and it all came right off. That also made getting rid of the old deck a lot easier with all smaller peices. You"ll be fine!

I did use the 400 wet before I buffed. I think it made the buffing go faster. I did not get overzealous with it though. I did it by hand with a sanding block which also allowed me to really look at the whole tube a little at a time to inspect for any spots I missed with the other operations. I finished all the hand sanding in one evening for the most part.



Edited by scbadiver
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/19/2008 at 9:47pm

Judgepw, I used sharkhide on mine and loved it.  I bought mine new and put it on before the boat hit the water.  I saw a boat that was purchased at the same time as mine and he didn"t sharkhide his and it looked bad after just a few trips to the river.  The sharkhide will help it keep its shine.  I can"t say enough good things about it, it is truly a superb product.

I think it also makes it easier to clean the Pontoons as I used simple green and paper towels to clean mine when I got home after fishing.



Edited by dahogman
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/29/2008 at 11:32am

I used the 320 dry, with a palm sander and then the 400 wet by hand with a block. After You"re done buffing, I would recommend a good wash down with plain old soap and water ( I used Dawn Dishwashing soap, "takes grease out of your way"  !)  Then after it"s good and dry I wiped down the whole thing with a rag and laquer thinner to make sure it is clean and free of polishing grease, THEN apply the protectant.

As far as the wood goes, I picture would help. I"m not sure of what you are asking there. Sorry.

Holes? Smaller the better in my opinion. The cables will come out of the box easily enough, pass them through the hole and reattach. I"d NEVER cut a hole in the deck big enough to pass the whole box through!!

Robbie
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/17/2008 at 10:40am
Originally posted by markraymond11 markraymond11 wrote:

Hey WildCat....I"ll have to say....your ingenuity on the pontoon model was excellent........but........where do I find 4X4"s long enough to support a 28 footer?

The 4x4"s go from side to side not length wise. So 8 feet would probably be long enough.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/17/2008 at 10:04pm
markraymond11 use 4x4"s to go side to side and laminate 2x6"s or 2x8"s together to go length wise.  I should have explained it better with the model I guess.  High lift jacks can be found at Harbor Freight for a very reasonable price. 

Edited by dahogman
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/21/2008 at 6:42am
I"ll jump in here. Yep, that is correct Judge. Get a bag of rags and some thinner and it will wipe off. I cleaned an area of the log when fixing leaks and it came right off and it was obvious as is softened and came off. Not a terrible hard thing to do but laquer thinner, to me, is stinky. Just be sure to wear the usual gloves and eye protection as that thinner is mean stuff.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/21/2008 at 9:38pm
I agree, but I"m finally starting to see some real results of my labor with Nuvite that I wasn"t getting with anything else and in much less time. Although I better hurry up with the polishing before the cold sets in, as that"ll be the end of polishing for a while till another warm front comes in.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/06/2009 at 2:14pm

Too much work for me.  Mine stay au naturel.  Just scrape/power wash 3 times a year and a shiny finish will scare the fish anyway (gives me excuses to 2 different questions).

Seriously, y"alls boats look great!

CGbosun
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/06/2009 at 2:36pm
Naw, naw, it looks like a big old shiner to them and they come in to check it out
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/06/2009 at 2:57pm
Originally posted by Wildcat Dude Wildcat Dude wrote:

Naw, naw, it looks like a BIG old shiner to them and they come in to check it out


You forgot to put emphasis on BIG. So I did it for you.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/15/2009 at 3:19pm

Unfortunately this product is only sold in a few areas (made locally in Harahan, LA/New Orleans, LA) and has distributors in the gulf coast cities of TX, AL, LA and MS, southern AR and northwest FL. So its doesn"t exactly help the majority of our members. But looks like it did a good job of prepping though.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/19/2009 at 4:28pm

When using Nuvite Polish;;; Do you have to change pads when you change compound. Like from 9 to 6 Etc.

Thanks   Ronney

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/19/2009 at 4:37pm
I did. I don"t know if its required but it just makes sense. I dont want something course showing up in my fine so I would say yes, change them out.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/19/2009 at 5:16pm
I did too, I had a pad for F9, F7 and S and didn"t mix them up.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/20/2009 at 12:42pm

Other than cutting grass NUVITE POLISH is the only other thing with instant results. This stuff is addicting you just can not quiet, each coat the toons look better an better

Ronney



Edited by kartracer28
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/05/2009 at 10:08pm

Here is a picture of the results using Kleen Bright coil cleaner that took me less then 15 minutes to achieve. Spray it on after wetting it down, let it set 5 minutes, light scrubbed it with a soft bristled brush & let it sit another 5 minutes & then hosed it off with clean water. I did not use a pressure washer.

***added space after text for pic to have room***



Edited by Wildcat Dude
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/07/2009 at 7:13pm

I just read your post captain58. I have no idea if Kleen Bright coil cleaner will effect your carpet or not as this is the first timeI have ever used it to clean pontoon logs. My pontoon at present does not have any carpet on it as it was ripped off prior to me getting it. The only thing left on the deck is rotten wood so I wasn"t  worried about any overspray.

The small hand sprayer you see in the picture I posted is what I used to apply Kleen Bright. I wet a 4ft area first then just sprayed on  the cleaner & let it set. I really didn"t need to soft scrub it but I did just to see how it would work. I could have just srayed it on & let it set 10 minutes & hose it off the very same way I use it to clean AC coils. But I was pleased with the results as you can see the hard water line on the rest of the log that I didn"t clean yet.

The best advice I could give you is to be careful using it & not let it get on anything you don"t want to replace especailly if using it full strength. I am not familiar enough with marine carpet to know if the cleaner will attack  it or not. I know I have got it on my jeans & old shirts many times but once I wash them they seem to be just fine but then again they are not clothes I go to dinner in either. I"d take am old piece of carpet if you have some & spray it & see what happens. Sorry I can"t give you more information at this time.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/07/2009 at 7:18pm
This is a pic of what the front of the log looked like before I applied coil cleaner. I have a long way to go before I am satisfied with the way they are going to look.
Les
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/19/2009 at 7:06pm

The pic in previous post was before I started the cleaning of the logs & cross members on one side of the toon. The pic I am posting today is one log done except for the inside. As soon as I get the toon off the trailer I am giong to clean the insides of the logs. I will then wash it all down with soad & water & let it dry before I decide what else I am going to do to them this year. I am also cleaning all the oxidation off the fence rails with Kleen Bright Coil Cleaner. They look very good so far.



Edited by rickdb1
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/20/2009 at 2:55am
Hi judgepw. Yes I did. I bought 2 gallons as I was low on it becuase I did HVAC work before I retired. I still clean coils for people when they ask to make a little "side" money.  I use the PINK all the time & dilute it when using it on coils. I used it full strength on the logs. I spent less then an hour cleaning the outside of the one above as well as used it on all the railings & cross members. I"m very pleased with the results.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/20/2009 at 6:39am
I was uncertain (but not too concerned) if the coil cleaner would kill the grass.  Well, one week after applying it, the grass is still alive and well.  Roundup does a much more effective job of killing vegetation, lol.  I did choose a day when I know it was going to rain in the evening to dilute any Coil Cleaner that was washed off on the ground.  Truly, you don"t use that much cleaner.  I diluted mine 2:1, went over the pontoon 3 x with it, and still have 2/3 of a bottle left.  Definitely get the chemical/corrosion resistant gloves and goggles.  I also wore a little nusiance dust mask because it made me feel better, lol.  I used a spray bottle, which always seem to leak down the handle, and constantly sprayed my gloves off with water.  For some reason I think the coil cleaner smells like cumin!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2009 at 6:56pm

I used toon brite full strength, sprayed it on a section at a time, waited for the foaming to get done (about 3 minutes) and hosed it off throughly. It had no ill effects on my carpeted bunks at all or the grass/driveway (although it did get rid of the oil stains) .  I haven"t done it with AC coil cleaner but lots of others have and also had no problems if you flush with plenty of water. I prefer spraying (wear plenty of hand/arm/eye protection) and clothes you won"t mind having holes in it when you"re done. Just don"t do it in windy conditions unless you just can"t help it. I and many others have done it with the boat on the trailer although I wouldn"t mind being able to clean whats sitting on the bunks

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/13/2010 at 2:11pm
Welcome Ray. I think the best bet is to sand them down first. Start with the finest grit paper that will do the job and then polish them up. Or you may just want leave them with the shiny brushed look..
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