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89 Party barge build

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bstomper View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bstomper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/11/2013 at 12:02am
Oh yeah, you bet I am. I just didn't use them while I was transfering the hole form the railing to the deck. But they will go in. Since I installed the hand rail I have become real fond of all the room at the very back just in front of the motor so I think I have found a solution to my problems.  Originally the gas tank was on the left side at the back and I was going to put it back there  but I really like all that space. When I install my water glide I will put a fuel tank in it. I found a tank from one of the local marinas and will get one similar. I won't buy it from him as he wants $250 for this old used oneShocked I'm sure I could find a better deal on one. It will look something similar to this accept with deck mount filler spout piped to the back of the boat and the tank will be strapped down.




Edited by bstomper - 07/11/2013 at 12:05am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PS-Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/11/2013 at 8:44am
Transom mounted tanks are great!  So much more room...check with ebay Bill, but what ever you do if you buy a used tank pull the pick up tube and inspect it.  I got one a few years ago, and after mounting and finishing the build the motor wouldn't start.  I checked the pick up tube and it was so brittle it had broken and fallen off inside the tank!  I solved that with some new flexible fuel line.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bstomper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/11/2013 at 9:29am
Good point, checking it over would save a lot of frustration. Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SunBlocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/11/2013 at 10:56am
Are you going to strap it to a cross member and use the `Glide as a cover, or strap it to the `Glide and have the `Glide be your vertical support?

I would suggest against the latter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote keosports Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/12/2013 at 5:49pm
Please tell me you ar going to use deck spacers.....please.  Best $32 I ever spent.
I second that, you will double the life of your floor, the boats coming along great, are you mounting the tow bar inside the fence?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bstomper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/12/2013 at 11:02pm
I am thinking of mounting the fuel tank to the water glide and mounting the waterglide to the bottom of the crossmembers. I am not sure what i am doing as far as the tow bar yet. I just need to get it in the water. I have all the rails finished and mounted and YES I HAVE SPACERS IN...... lol. I am waiting for my new steering cable, hopefully it will be in tomorrow. For it to be useable, all I need is the steering cable and the battery but I still have to hook up all of the lights, stereo, gauges, fish finder and a few other things as well as find some way to plug the holes in the floor that I had to cut to get the cables through. How do you guys plug those holes. I can't install the new fuel tank until I install the water glide so I will have to use a cruiseaday until that happens. It won't be long though, All I have to do is put the boat in the water and take some measurements of the waterline in a few places and fill out a bunch more info on the boat and the waterglide people will input the info into their computer and it should tell me where to install it. It's pretty straight forward to install.
Here is where it's at now. Although I like the black panels I must say that I am not as happy with as I though I would be. With the furniture installed I think it would have looked better with tan paneling, but then it may have been too much tanConfused

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Edited by bstomper - 07/13/2013 at 12:00am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote keosports Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/14/2013 at 6:57pm
to fill the holes I would use 3M 5200
25' fiberglass deck unknown mnf.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bstomper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/15/2013 at 11:14pm
Thanks Keosports. I have been plugging away at the boat when I can, we have had company for a few days and it has been impossible to get out there. I have no new pictures because I am at the stage where there doesn't look like much work is getting done, but it is, the piddley stuff like the wiring. I have the PS wiring harness roughed in but there seems to be lots of slack in the harness and I will have to cut it down some to make it a custom fit for my boat. I am so glad I went with this harness, it sure makes life easy. I have to pick up another battery box so that I can get my battery selector switch installed. Still waiting on the new steering cable that I ordered last wednesday, I really hope it gets here soon.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bstomper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/21/2013 at 8:37am
Been working on the wiring of the boat for the last couple days because I can't put it in the water yet........the guy that measured and ordered my steering cable, measured it wrong Angry, and being up north in the middle of nowhere has it's drawbacks. It was ordered four days ago and still isn't hereAngryAngry. At least it has given me some time to do the electrical. I should have just bought the plug and play switch panel from pontoon stuff when I bought the wireing harness, it would have simplified things a whole bunchConfused, not to mention probably cheaper also. But I didn't and it's all done, most of it. All the wires are run, in split loom, and connected to the switches and fuse panel. All wiring, other than the stuff that plugs into the fuse panel and switches is soldered and heatshrinked.  All that has to be done is connect the wires to the nav lights and courtesy lights, install the speakers and and run their wires and power up the stereo. For the life of me I can not find the manual for the wiring scematic of the stereo so I found the info I needed online. Oh, I also have to hook up my dual battery switch and second battery. At least with the screw up of the steering cable it has given me time to do the wiring because I probably would have used the boat instead of doing what has/should to be done. I grossly under estimated how much time the wiring was going to take but I guess the soldering take time.
I need some clarification on some stuff. Right now I have the main power feed of the wiring harness run from the battery directly to the fuse panel, then the power from each circuit in the fuse panel runs up to each individual switch, then to the wiring harness out to the equipment. The lights for all the gauges and volt meter are hooked (fused) to the power coming from the ignition switch, so that they are only on when the engine is turned on. Now, should the main power coming from the battery be on a master switch before it gets to the fuse panel so that one switch will shut everything down and prevent the draining of the batteries if something is left on? If so would I have to hook up the constant power wire from the stereo to the power before the the masterswitch so that the clock keeps time. Will the stereo loose power when I switch the battery selector switch from battery to batteryand if so, will I then have to run the stereo constant power wire directly to one of the batteries before the selector switch? Can I just use the battery selector switch for the masterswitch? I have a spare switch on my switch panel that is rated for 20 amps can I use that for my masterswitch. I beleive the circuit breaker that came with the wiring harness is only  20 amps so the switch should work, right?
I hope this makes sence because there is alot of stuff in that last paragraph.

Edited by bstomper - 07/21/2013 at 9:26am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LargeBarge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/21/2013 at 10:49pm
I think your on the right track but I wouldn't run a wire just for clock....everyone has a clock on a cell phone. The way we ran ours was simple

engine to selector switch
main battery to selector switch (BATT 1)
Aux battery to selector switch (BATT 2)
fuse box is hooked directly to aux battery with a Maxi-Fuse at battery

This way we just turn selector switch in off position at sandbar so engine cant be started on accident (KIDS) also its lets us run stereo and lights off aux battery

Turn switch to battery 1 to start engine and if we are going to run a long distance I switch to both to charge up Aux battery

Just get in habit of turning everything off you'll be fine!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PS-Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/22/2013 at 7:55am
Most outboard charging systems do not like having to make up the charge drained from your clock while taking care of every thing else as well.  Unless you use your pontoon daily, you will regret keeping a constant lead to your stereo.  Just re-set your settings each time you use your boat, and you will be a lot happier then if you end up with a dead battery Wink

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SunBlocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/22/2013 at 8:53am
Personally I loathe battery selector switches and consider them to be just another opportunity to "forget to do the right thing".

I prefer a dedicated starting battery, a "house" battery for accessories, lighting, stereo, etc.. and an automatic battery combiner (VSR) to keep them both charged.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bstomper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/22/2013 at 10:41am
Well I guess thats settled then. I will forget about the clock thing, not supposed to be worrying about time while on the boat anywayWink. As far as the stereo wiring goes, there is a red power wire, a yellow illumination wire and a orange constant wire. Do I hook all of them all together and then to the fuse panel?
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Yes sir Wink
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Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LargeBarge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/22/2013 at 8:50pm
The yellow illumination wire should be tied into your running lights......When power is applied to this wire your display screen will dim down so not to blind you at night...... might affect how you see your screen in the daytime...
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Good point, I will do that. Thanks again. I put the boat in the water tonight for the float test (still no steering cable) and got the needed measurements for the waterglide people. Hopefully I will have what I need tomorrow and it will be installed soon. I also received my new fuel tank (link below) which will work out better than the other one because it is alot shorter.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PS-Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/23/2013 at 10:07am
Originally posted by LargeBarge LargeBarge wrote:

The yellow illumination wire should be tied into your running lights......When power is applied to this wire your display screen will dim down so not to blind you at night...... might affect how you see your screen in the daytime...


Yep, you're correct.  I blew threw that post so fast I didn't catch that.  I had always referred that wire as the dimmer wire, guess I better read a little slower!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bstomper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/23/2013 at 12:12pm
No worries PS-GUY. Well the numbers are in for the location of the waterglide. It looks like a straight forward easy installation. I am heading out of town for a few days and when I get back I hope to wrap this build up and start enjoying life some. As long as it is done for August 2nd because I start a moth holiday thenTongue. I will work night and day if I have to.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatdaddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/26/2013 at 3:54pm
Bstopmer....I am ready to see this joker on the water before the summer is up!! Get busy buddy! LOL
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I'm trying, really I am, but I am beginning to think that it's not meant to be. I have ordered the steering cable for the third timeAngryAngryAngryAngryAngryAngryAngryAngryAngryAngryAngry. I thought that I would give the local boat parts guy some business and it hasn't paid off. I needed a longer cable than the original to make up for moving the motor pod back. I installed the original cable and determined that if I had a 12" longer cable it would work. I took the cable to the guy and he measured it and ordered the one that I needed. NOT!! It was 12" shorterConfusedAngry. He measured the black casing but forgot to add the 22" and round up to the next foot. so he ordered another one. Yep, you guessed it, still not long enoughAngryConfusedAngryConfused. It was the same size and my original. I was just going to order from somewhere else but he wanted to make it right and ordered it again. It is supposed to be here on wednesday and it BETTER fit!!!
On a happier not I have all of the electrical done and all of the little stuff that would have been left if the cable would have been here, so really it's actually worked out alright. I have the waterglide ready to install. My new tank looks like it is going to work out great. I have to fab up the brackets to hold the tank in place but I know exactly what I am going to do for that and it won't take long, the only thing that is causing a problem is that I am waiting on a new control board for my welder. We had a lightning strike near our house and the welder was plugged in and it fried the board. 
Here's some pictures of the WG ready for install





Edited by bstomper - 07/30/2013 at 10:21pm
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Well it was a happy day yesterday, not steering cable happy but welder fixed happy. I received my new control board for my welder and put it to use already. I welded up the mount brackets for my fuel tank. It turned out pretty good and I am happy with it. Waterglide goes in in the next few days along with the finishing touches for the fuel tank, then underskinning and steering cable (if it ever gets here) and it's water boundBig smile, providing things go as plannedConfused



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatdaddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/31/2013 at 7:16pm
Very nice work as usual! Very sweet and you will not need long fuel lines!
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The day just keeps getting better.....for a change......I am at work right now (1 more nightshifts then 1 month offBig smile) and my wife just called and said that the guy dropped off the steering cableBig smileBig smileBig smileBig smileBig smileBig smileBig smileBig smileBig smileBig smileBig smileBig smileBig smileBig smileBig smileBig smileBig smileBig smileBig smileBig smileBig smileBig smileBig smileBig smile. So the way I see it....a half hour to intal it and a few hours to instal the waterglide and another one for the fuel connections and I will be set. I will be on the water on saturday Big smileBig smileunless ole Murphy shows his ugly headAngry, which with my luck could happenOuch. Either way I will be on holidaysBeerBig smileBig smileBig smileBig smileBig smile. I won't be getting much sleep in the next couple days, I will be way to excited.

Is there any trick that I should know about for installing the steering cable so that the writing on my center cap of the steering wheel is straight and level when the motor is straight? 


Edited by bstomper - 07/31/2013 at 10:44pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PS-Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/01/2013 at 8:54am
My trick is usually to install, center the motor, then in stall the center cap so it's straight Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SunBlocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/01/2013 at 9:03am
I'm sure you've already thought of these things... but I'll throw some advice out there:

Pressure test your tank.  Your mounting location may allow the tank to become partially submerged (at rest, heavily loaded) and water will find its way into the tank of you have a leak at the inspection port, sending unit port, or hose connections.

SST braid cover your hoses/lines or don't leave your boat in the water for extended periods.  Water-born rodents just love to climb up in a place like the `Glide and chew on those tasty rubber parts.  Alternatively, cover all  access locations with mesh/screen.
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Thanks for the advise guys. The problem with the steering wheel cap is that it only goes on one way. I guess it will be a trial and error thing. 
Sun blocker, I have already thought about pressure testing it but with all the excitement of being so close to being done, it slipped my mindEmbarrassed. Thanks for the reminder. As far as the rodent thing I don't keep my boat in the water, it comes out after every use, but thats a good point. I never really thought about that.


Edited by bstomper - 08/01/2013 at 1:37pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PS-Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/01/2013 at 4:35pm
Then there is no trick.  Your motor will be centered when it's centered, there's no adjustment like an automotive steering box.  Once you have it tracking straight, you can pull the cap and/or wheel and see if you have multiple key ways to move the wheel, other wise it is what it is...


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SunBlocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/01/2013 at 4:52pm
I'm assuming you don't have the "rack and pinion" style mechanism... and you have the "rotary" style (UFlex or Teleflex) where the steering cable wraps around the driven "spur" gear.

I have hydraulic steering now so it's been a while since I messed with my cable-driven system... but if memory serves me correctly it is possible on both the UFlex and Teleflex helms to move the drive pinion (attached to the wheel) tooth-by-tooth with respect to the spur.  I believe you have to pull the back cover off, and it is probably necessary to remove the wheel and perhaps a C-clip... but I think it can be done.

It is also possible to use an adjustable link between the cable end and the engine arm, but length variation should be kept to a minimum to avoid screwing up the geometry of the linkage.
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Yes it is a rotary style teleflex system. The steering wheel has only one position because it is a tapered keyed shaft that uses a woodruff key. It took me a couple trys but I have it centered, almost. All I did was adjust the steering wheel to where I wanted it then installed the cable with the motor straight. Took note as to how much the wheel was out, removed the cable from the rotary helm end, adjusted the wheel the amount that it was out and reinstalled the cable into the rotary helm. Simple as that. It is still out a tiny bit but once I get it on the water and tracking straight then I will adjust it exactly where it needs to be. I picked up the hoses and hose clamps for the fuel lines and vent, so the waterglide will go in tomorrow. It shouldn't take more that a couple hours if things go as planned. Then out for the maiden voyageTongue. I am very excited to see how this waterglide performs. I hope I am not dissapointed.

A couple quick questions. The fuel tank is solid and doesn't slip around in the mount brackets so do I need any rubber between the mounts and the tank?
Also, my ETEC is fuel injected so do I still require a primer bulb on the fuel line from the tank to the motor. I suppose it wouldn't hurt.


Edited by bstomper - 08/01/2013 at 10:25pm
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