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89 Party barge build

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    Posted: 02/12/2013 at 9:19pm
Hello, I am new here and also to the world of pontoons. I have been reading through some of the build thread and there are some extremly talented people here. Some beautiful boats being rebuilt. Last year I purchased a 1989 sun tracker 21 foot party barge. It was in need of some tlc but the reason I bought it was for the 2009 evinrude etec 90, which only had 10 hours on it. The boat on the other hand has a few more hours on it than that, and it shows. I prety much got the boat for free. What I paid for the whole unit is prety much what the motor is worth. The furnature was new 3 years ago according to the previous owner but they do have a bit of sun fading.  But nothing serious. I hate when people don't take care of their stuff. The console is completly garbage and I will have to get a new one. The pontoons had some leaks in them at the very front and back locations where the brackets are mounted to the pontoon. I have since fixed the leaks the best I could. Once the decking is off and I can get at the leaks I will fix them better.
I am going to do a complete rebuild from the frame up and hope to get some advice on some of the stuff needed. I don't currently have any pictures of the boat and there is 3 feet of snow on the ground so there won't be any for a couple months. I will be replacing the decking with marine grade 3/4" plywood, new flooring, not carpet. The places we frequent on the lake are sand and it's too hard to keep the carpet clean. Installing fence spacers. Would like to paint the fencing. Extend the deck up front a bit. The decking comes to point at the front and I want to make it square/straight. All new lighting and electrical. It is rated for a 90hp and the motor pod is in good shape but it could use a bit of tlc also, so I will do some work to it. The back of the boat, the section where the motor pod is attached, is inset (the back of the boat is not straight across). I would like to move the motor pod back enough to make the back straight across but I am concerned that this will put to much weight to far back. The back of the boat already sits lower in the water than the front. Part of the back section of the boat is where the gas tank is located. It is out in the open and ugly, so I would like to find some way/place to put it so it is hidden and also free up that space. I have been thinking about custom making a alumunum one to fit in the well area of the motor pod. Adding a 3rd pontoon would be great but it is out of the question, specificly budget, for this year. I have been searching localy for one and there are none in my area. I have purchased many new things already for the rebuild and will continue to until I begin. I plan on starting in early April, if the weather permits, and hope to have it on the water for May long weekend May 18th (victoria day in Canada) I will have many questions on the proper ways to do things. It will be a challenge that I am looking forward to.

Edited by bstomper - 02/12/2013 at 9:31pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MRT24 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/12/2013 at 10:59pm
First off welcome and congrats on the new boat....we look forward to seeing pics and progress of your rebuild. If you don't like carpet vinyl would be a great option. I have it on my 24'er because I fish from mine and I just don't like carpet on a boat....one thing I have done on mine is when were at the sand bar and my floor is covered in sand I take my 12volt air pump that I use to air up the tube, and I blow all the sand right off the boat since I have vinyl! It's pretty nice to be able to do that.
Good luck Ryan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3cflyr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02/12/2013 at 11:29pm
Check VAGents rebuild.  He moved his transom aft and is running a 90 Etec I believe.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bstomper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/25/2013 at 3:42am
Well the build is getting close but there is still 2 feet of snow on the ground and last week we were still getting -30c tempeartures. It's warmed up considerably and was melting today. This has got me excited about the rebuild again. I have been reading on other builds about new motor pods and 3rd pontoons. I still want to do something with the motor pod to move it back to make the back of the deck straight across for extra useable space. The existing motor pod is about 6 feet long and is the same as the one in the picture in the 11th post here http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7816&title=under-skinning
I have been looking all winter for a 3rd pontoon but they are extremly hard to find in my area and that makes them very expensive, if you can find them. I have been thinking  of getting a plate bent up with the same profile as back end of the existing pod and weld it to the back of the existing motor pod. I would bacicly just be lengthening the existing motor pod by 8-10'. then istall a top to make it a fully enclosed pontoon, then bolt it to the desired location. The existing motor pod would be the nose cone for the new pontoon. Would something like this work. I am happy with the speed and handling of my boat the way it is, I just want to make better use of the space at the back of the boat and try to offset some of the weight issues I may encounter by moving the motor back 24"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bstomper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/29/2013 at 2:02pm
I have also been thinking of reskinning my rails as there a few dents and scratches in the panels. Of course my major delema is I live in northern Canada and there just isn't any places to get stuff for rebuilding a pontoon boat and shipping charges across the border from the US into Canada for larger items are rediculous.  Just curious if anyone has used colored aluminum flashing for this. There are places around here that sells 4x8 sheets in various colors and they could be cut to what ever size is needed. What thickness would be best for the panels?
I am also going to make my own deck edging out of aluminum for the same reasons stated above. I am adding a bit more decking onto the boat and the old edging will not fit.  I will use aluminum sheets cut and bent to a 90 degree in the 2 5/8" x 3 1/2" cofiguration that I need and tig weld the joints. I am thinking of going with 1/8" material. Would this be to thick and can I go with a thinner material.

Edited by bstomper - 03/29/2013 at 2:51pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote keosports Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/29/2013 at 11:29pm
i used 1/8 diamond plate and it worked great, i would not go thinner, i went 2"x4" 90degree bend. on the corners i used a rubber treat that has not held up well, i may find an old tire, cut it down and screw it on to the corners.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote keosports Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/29/2013 at 11:32pm
i used 10' strips and for the middle joints i just drilled in a small piece of pvc board to the back, looks great
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bstomper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03/30/2013 at 8:34am
Diamond plate would look nice but alot harder to polish. I'm just taking the measurement from the old edging but thats just a guideline. I don't plan on putting any rubber/plastic molding on it or the corners. There was a build on here somewhere that did this same thing that I am talking about and they just tig telded the corners and it looked very neat and clean.
I have a tubing bender and can bend 1", 1.5"and  1.75"  round tubing as well as .75" square tubing and have been thinking about building some kind of wakeboard tower that could double as a bimini top where the fabric could just be snapped onto the tubing.  It would be made so that it could be taken down easily with the removal of pins or bolts for storage purposes. It wouldn't have the long sweeping radius bends like the factory ones as my 1.75" dies have a 7" circle line radius so I don't know what it would look like. It would be made from steel tubing and powder coated. I built my polaris rzr cage with powder coated steel and it sees way more mud and water that this thing will ever see and it is still in like new shape so I don't htink the water will affect the steel. Aluminum would be a better choice weight wise but it would be expensive an I have a bunch of steel. It is thin wall tubing so the weight realy isnt that mich. I will draw something up and post it to get some feed back. I just have to do some research on designs and have to decide if I want to do this so that I can weld in some extra supports in the mounting areas before I put the new decking on. Any ideas on this would be appreciated.
 
Also, I have a chance to pick up a used pontoon water glide in like new condition localy for $400. It was taken off a 30' party hut because it didn't make much difference at the slow speed the guy travels and he didn't want the extra weight and drag while going slow. So I have been doing some research on them. lots of comments, some good some not so good. For the new price I wouldn't even think about this but for $400 it seems like a relativly cheap option to try  for what they claim it will do. A third pontoon is out of the question so this is my only option. Anyone have any experience with these


Edited by bstomper - 03/30/2013 at 9:41am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bstomper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/10/2013 at 11:14pm
Well, reading all the posts about other peoples projects, I couldn't resist anymore and decided to get started on mine. I spent a good hour just digging it out of the snow. We are finally starting to get some warmer weather here, if you can call just above freezing warm. I dug it out just enough so that I can start to dissasemble it. I have purchased a few things for it over the past few months such as sterio, lighting and some structural aluminum for the modification to the deck that I will be doing. I have been extremly frustrated, searching for places in Canada to purchase the stuff needed to rebuild a pontoon boat. I wish we had a pontoonstuff place here. The shipping across the border would kill my project fund, but I have come up with a solution. My brother inlaw is an electrician and frequently orders material from the US and gets it sent to a shipping/receiving  outlet just inside the US border which will receive it and hold it till I can pick it up for a small fee. I will purchase what I need for my project from pontoonstuff and get it shipped there and go down and pick it up. With a 48 hour stay in the US, I can bring back $800/person worth of stuff. Between me and my wife I can bring back all I will need to do the rebuild and get a little holiday out of it. I am thinking of getting the pontoonstuff full redeck kit with the vinyl flooring. I have been tossing around the idea of the kiwi grip that VaGent has found but it's not 100% proven to work for pontoon boat decks. The vinyl is proven to work so I will probably just go with it. I have some pictures but haven't loaded them to my computer yet, when I do I will start posting them. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatdaddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/11/2013 at 9:00am
Look forward to seeing this project come together!!
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Here are a few pictures of what I have going on. I got a couple hours to work on it today and started the tear down. You can see the UGLY blue carpet that will be replaced. All the stuff on the carpet was from cutting the logs to make the frame for the storage tarp. 
 
 
 
I want to move the engine back so that the deck is straight across the back and remove the gas tank and build one into the new motor pod that I am going to build.
 
 
 
 
I can see why the front end was a bit spongy when diving off it. The aluminum frame is about 6" away from the front of the plywood deck. I am going to build a new complete frame for the front that will incorporate the first 2 or 3 cross beams and it will go right to the front edge of the deck.
 
 
 
 
In the below pictures you can see where the previous owner installed threaded bungs to the pontoons to remove the water that was leaking in. I repaired the leaks last year and just used it for the summer. I am going to remove the hidious bungs and patch over them. They were welded on and then some kind of putty was applied and then a primer of some sort. Beats me!! If he would have gotten a real welder to do the job he wouldn't have need all the other crud.
 
 
This is where I got to today. I am on 4 days off after tonight and hope to have most of it stripped down to the bare metal by the time I go back to work. Once it is stripped down I will start reinforcing the spots that need it. I plan on leaving the front portion of the deck on until I have the new frame work built so I have some guide to work with.
][/URL


Edited by bstomper - 04/12/2013 at 1:24am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatdaddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/12/2013 at 7:38am
Love the bow design on this pontoon....and wow I have never seen snow like that in my life...it looks like you have a great motor to work with...I sure look forward to seeing your project come together!! I like to have drains in pontoons as many do take on small amounts of water, but at bottom of toon at rear seems like a better location than these drains....I am not sure what that other guy was thinking!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bstomper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/12/2013 at 1:49pm
Alot of the snow has melted, it was 3/4 the way up the side of the pontoon. I intend to weld in some threaded bungs near the bottom of the end cap at the back
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TheBalls Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/12/2013 at 3:03pm
I look forward to seeing pics! Also curious what you decide to do about flooring. Looks like the boat was in awfully good condition, and that motor is sharp! Same reason I bought mine, it has a 90 hp Honda on it. The motors are the most expensive parts, so I figured by the motor, fix the boat! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bstomper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/12/2013 at 8:11pm
I agree, I can rebuild the boat, it's the new 90 hp motor that I wanted. It had under 20 hours on it when I bought it.
I got a bit more done today. I finished removing the fencing and what a pain that was. Some time in it's life time some of the railing bolts were replaced with galvanized and they corroded so I had to drill some out. In the one picture you can see that the decking served it's time and is sagging between the supports


The side deck edging is in really nice shape and just need some cleaning and the rubber bumper replaced but the front ones are in rough shape and will need replacing and I will have no chance of finding matching ones around here. All I need is 2 five foot peices. I will do some searching but I think I will have to find an alternate solution.

This is the bad stuff



I will have to remove the motor soon and need some advice as to how to do it. I have never removed an outboard before so I am not sure. I am not sure how heavy it is but if I build a stand out of 2x4's and brace it good will that hold it or should I weld one up. Where do I hook up to it to lift it off. I was looking to see if it has lifting points but couldn't see any. I even took the engine cover off to see if they were in there.  Should I remove the nut on the steering rod in the right side of the picture and then the nut for the steering rod case in the left side of the picture and pull the rod out. As far as the throttle cables go, should they be removed at the motor or at the shifter assembly. Everything else just unplugs, so that's easy.








Edited by bstomper - 04/12/2013 at 8:17pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bstomper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/13/2013 at 3:07pm
Doing some measurements for the new motor pod today, I found another problem. Or more like and expense. If I move the pod back 24" to where I want it, I will have to get a 24" longer steering cable. I will have to price one out and see if the extra cost will be worth it. It shouldn't be that much but then again, I do live in Canada!!!

I have everything disconnected and I am ready to remove the motor. Does it need to stand upright or would I be able to lay it on it's side.
 

Would this be the lifting lug




Edited by bstomper - 04/13/2013 at 6:57pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatdaddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/14/2013 at 6:15am
Yes that is lifting lug...a motor stand easy fairly easy to build, no welding needed...check out my rebuild to see the one I made or just goggle it...steering removal you have figured out, remove that nut on stainless rod then unscrew cable from other side and simply pull out...I would remove linkage and throttle cables from motor end...If you were planning on replacing steering cable already then the extra 2 foot will not cost you anymore!! I don't think it would hurt motor to lay on its side, but I think I would build a simple rack to hold motor, I built mine in twenty min or 3 beers...LOL
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Thanks for the info fatdaddy. I'm back to work tomorrow for 4 days and I am happy with the progress I made. I wanted to have it stripped down and it is. I decided to use my sled lift and fabbed a small stand to bolt to it for the engine stand with scrap material I had laying around. I am much better with metal than I am with wood. It worked out really good and is strong as I have a bad habit of overbuilding stuff. Everything to this point has actualy been real easy and the tear down is complete and I am really looking forward to the actual rebuild part.





This is the way it is now.

The A frame part of the nose will be rebuild and will extend all the way to the edge of the wood deck and extend all the way back to the 2nd or 3rd full 8 foot cross member. It will be one solid peice. This will make the nose alot stronger. The main place that the toons were leaking was right at the front. Because of the flexing of the nose the front uprights that connect the toon to the cross member are pushed into the toon and had cracked at the points of contact. I fixed the leaks last year knowing that I was going to fix them better during the rebuild. I am thinking of making some kind of saddle and weld it to the toon and make new brackets. The trick will be to make it look nice. I will have to do some thinking on this. I will be replacing the old water deflector onthe front also. They look old school and are in bad shape.




Edited by bstomper - 04/15/2013 at 7:24pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatdaddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/16/2013 at 7:47am
Bstomper, I think thats the best engine stand I've ever seen....that's awesome....wow the snow is still there...tell ya what I'll send you a truck load of pollen for a truck load of snow...LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bstomper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/16/2013 at 9:50am

Yeah its sturdy. I got a bit carried away with the height though, it could have been a bit shorter. I would love to send you some snow, but you can keep the pollen LOL. We are suposed to be getting some more (snow that is, not pollen) in the next few days. #$^&^%$#@*&^%

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote curtiscapk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/16/2013 at 5:39pm
Coming along nicely!! I have decking down on mine if the temps creep up this weekend I may try to lay carpet, maybe some space heaters anyone used them to keep the glue warm?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bstomper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/16/2013 at 9:44pm
It would probably work if you could tarp it in some how to keep the heat in.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bstomper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/16/2013 at 11:16pm
I also priced out a longer steering cable and the price surprised me. Only $130.00 I thought was going to be alot more. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CherokeeLaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/17/2013 at 9:15pm
Not to be a downer, but of you move the transom back, will your throttle & shift cables and electrical be long enough?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bstomper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/17/2013 at 11:13pm
The throttle/shift cable and electrical cables will be long enough but I will have to get a longer steering cable. The steering cable is the one that I priced out at $130.

Edited by bstomper - 04/21/2013 at 2:35pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bstomper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/21/2013 at 2:35pm
Well we got 3" of wet heavy snow last night and it is still coming down hard. Looks like this will put a stall on the project for a bit. I drew up the parts for my new motor pod,  fuel tank and deck edging and emailed the dxf files away for a quote. I am thinking it won't be cheap as it will be close to 3 sheets of 1/8" aluminum and a sheet is around $220. But at least I will have what I want. Still going to cheaper than a $35,000 new boat
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bstomper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/23/2013 at 9:33pm
The snow forced me into the shop so I built the front part of the deck framing. I was wanting to use 2x2x1/8" square tube but i couldn't find any around. The closest I could find was 2x3x1/8" rectangle. So after everything is said and done.......I don't think it will fall apart. It was my first try at tig welding and I like it. The welds are going to be strong but I need some practice to make them look pretty. I also removed the front section of the deck framing and frame mounts from the boat. I will get some pictures tomorrow.
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Joined: 02/12/2013
Location: Canada
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bstomper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/24/2013 at 7:57am
Woke up to another 5" of fresh snow today and it's still coming downCry. I don't think spring will ever come. The snow hasn't even melted off of the lakes yet and we are getting more. I was hoping to have the boat done for the May long weekend, May 18-20 (Victoria day in Canada) but we still have snow and 5 feet of ice on the lakes. We will probably be high ice fishing instead of pontoon boat fishing.
1989 Sun Tracker DL21
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fatdaddy View Drop Down
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Location: Whitesburg, GA
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatdaddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04/24/2013 at 11:04am
Wow bstomper...you are going to have to build a new shop just so you can work on the boat....lol...like you I wanted to be finished middle of May, don't think that will happen!!
Keith Winders
Whitesburg, GA
My 1989 SYLVAN REBUILD
24 Footer
88HP Johnson
CHILLIN' THE MOST!
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