Pontoon Forum Homepage
Forum Home Forum Home > Show Off Your Pontoon Boat > Pontoon Boat Rebuild Projects
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - 1978 24ft Crest pontoon floor rebuild
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Register Register  Login Login

1978 24ft Crest pontoon floor rebuild

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1234>
Author
Message
SunBlocker View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member
Avatar
EPWPTQ Award for March 2012

Joined: 11/12/2008
Location: Oconomowoc, WI
Status: Offline
Points: 1177
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SunBlocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/20/2014 at 8:44am
Originally posted by fmgarner fmgarner wrote:

SunBlocker 
Can you share some links?


My build thread has some information about the aluminum flooring, and toward the end you can see some posts regarding canvas enclosures:

http://www.pontoonboatforum.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=3192&KW=sunblocker&title=sunblocker-1992-party-cruiser

The Lockdry website is here:

http://www.nexaninc.com/products/decking/lockdry-waterproof-decking

AridDeck here:

http://www.wahoodecks.com/ariddek/
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
The `Blocker Build
Back to Top
fmgarner View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 10/08/2014
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 53
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmgarner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/11/2014 at 11:49pm
I wanted to thank all that has offer their advise and support plus links that help me get to this point.

Jim Myers from Pontoonstuff.com contacted me and after a few emails 
back and forth, I will be buying all they can offer me from 
Pontoonstuff.com web site and pontoonfence.com their sister 
company. I am buying my 6 marine plywood from them and 20oz carpet (24ft) to start. 

Jim has hooked me up with James Morgan from pontoonstuff.com who will be working with me on my 24ft pontoon rebuild. I can not wait to get started and if all goes well in the next week or so, I will start with the flooring and carpet.

What change my mind was the.... "We want your business attitude".... from both Jim and James. I'd definitely got the feeling that I would be happy with the service and product.
I really like the feeling that they were willing to work with me on shipping and what I could spend at one time.

The 6 marine plywood boards are shipped on a 4 by 8 pallet so I do understand that I need to find a loading dock for them to send it to, so I am working on that right now and I think I have a place already.

I really did not realize what pontoonstuff.com had to offer til they started chatting with me and telling me what they could offer.

Well, more to come and oh yes more pictures of the rebuild of course.
Frank
Back to Top
curtiscapk View Drop Down
Moderator Group
Moderator Group
Avatar

Joined: 01/30/2013
Location: OP KS \Truman
Status: Offline
Points: 954
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote curtiscapk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/12/2014 at 2:47pm
Yep they are top notch! Good luck!
Craig n Paula
THE FLOATER Rebuild
94 Party Barge 24' 115 merc
22mph
OP KS
Truman Lake
Back to Top
fmgarner View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 10/08/2014
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 53
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmgarner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/13/2014 at 9:53pm
Does anyone have some link for reasonable price low profile below deck gas tanks.
The size can not be more than  60"Lx 21"Wx5"D with a gas gauge and no more than 18gal.
I am not wanting a big gas tank.
I have looked online but not sure what else to google as I am sure there is something out there.
Right now I am looking for someone in my town to build me what I want but I am hoping that someone will give me some links.

this is the closes I had come to what I wanted

http://greatlakesskipper.com/lund-2069106-moeller-ft1923-br-crosslink-poly-19-gallon-63-3-4-x-16-x-5-inch-insulated-marine-boat-gas-fuel-tank


Edited by fmgarner - 11/13/2014 at 9:58pm
Frank
Back to Top
p3cflyr View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member

Excellent Member Of The Month July 2010

Joined: 04/12/2009
Location: Kirksville, Mo
Status: Offline
Points: 1276
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3cflyr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/13/2014 at 11:28pm
Aluminum or poly tank??  I can guess the size limitation but why the  capacity of 18 gal max?  I'll see if i can find anything but the material is important.  Wink

Just did some looking and the 5 inch max height is a problem for majority of aftermarket tanks.  Any flexibility there?


Edited by p3cflyr - 11/13/2014 at 11:40pm
Mike

"Atta Boy" Award June 2011
1987 Lowes Fish and Fun 20ft
1999 Merc 50hp 4 strk big foot
Kirksville, Mo
P3C Orion Pilot
ASW Warfare Specialist
Back to Top
fmgarner View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 10/08/2014
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 53
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmgarner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/14/2014 at 7:17am
I am open to either 
as for the limit is a preference, I don't want alot of weight and gas on hand on the pontoon.
I know the 5"deep is the problem and that is also including any fitting.
This is why I had ask everyone to help me with some links that has the 5" deep.
I have a drawing to make it if I have to but I am sure it will cost.

Frank
Back to Top
fmgarner View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 10/08/2014
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 53
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmgarner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/18/2014 at 2:18pm
Frank
Back to Top
fmgarner View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 10/08/2014
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 53
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmgarner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/18/2014 at 2:19pm

So I went and talked to a welding shop about building me 
the under deck gas tank. The guy I had talked with help me
out alot as to what I really wanted so we came up with a 
aluminum 13 gal gas tank 30"LX21"WX5"D with 2 NPT pickup 1/2"
a vent and a drain plug. I did not know how I was going to make 
a reserve tank but that was so simple. All you do is run a tube 
to the bottom of the tank for the reserve and the second one you 
run a tube an inch from the bottom of the tank which we figure 
will give me about 2 1/2 gal on reserve and for my pontoon that 
should get me to shore to get more gas. I wanted a drain plug so 
I could drain any water or just empty the tank. So a gallon a gas 
is about 6.3 pound so a full 13 gal will weigh about 82 pounds 
and I am placing the tank about 10ft from the back in between the 
supports and will be bolted to the supports.
Still have more planning to do once I get the tank like how and 
where I am going to fill the tank. The fuel lines will run down 
the log to the back and then attach with quick connect like you 
use for a portable tank which I will have 2 of them one for main 
and the other for reserve.
So right now I am waiting on the price to make the tank
 

Frank
Back to Top
fmgarner View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 10/08/2014
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 53
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmgarner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/22/2014 at 5:15pm
While waiting on the gas tank, I went ahead and worked on extending
the back on one side to see how it will hold up and I think it will 
hold but it does bend a little. What I did was go to Home Depot and bought 
2 1-1/4X4' 1/8" thick angle Iron, they were only $10.57 each.

I also went to Walmart and bought one set of fog lights for $18 and some trailer wire to wire them up. I'd used those little blue wire clips that all you have to do is put it on the main wire and slide the wire from the light into the side and clip, then I just tape them up so they might stay dry. 

Will test the lights tonight to see how bright they may be.....not really sure how good they will be out of the water but still will try them out. My plan is to have 3 lights on each side under the deck to light up the water without blinding my sight.
I am going to name the power switch Aqua lights since I plan on having about 8 toggle switches with one still open. 
All my switches will be hooked thru the main key switch that way if I forget to turn one off then they won't kill the battery.
Frank
Back to Top
SunBlocker View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member
Avatar
EPWPTQ Award for March 2012

Joined: 11/12/2008
Location: Oconomowoc, WI
Status: Offline
Points: 1177
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SunBlocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/22/2014 at 7:00pm
Sorry if this reply sounds a bit harsh, but it sounds like you are on the verge of making some mistakes that will probably cause you some grief down the road.

I hope you meant "angle aluminum" and not "angle iron"... even with paint, you just don't want to use angle iron on your boat.. anywhere.

Personally I went through a lot of inexpensive dock and fog lights before I finally threw int he towel and got some "good" LED marine units.  The inexpensive units just don't hold up in the marine environment, and incandescent style lamps use a heck of a lot of current/power.  Remember, if you are planning on putting WHITE lights on the side of your boat you can ONLY use them when you are stopped and at anchor (and even then, it's not 100% legal).  You absolutely cannot use white side lamps when underway.

Insulation displacing splice/tap clips are a really bad idea in marine environments... even when wrapped with tape.  They will fail... guaranteed.

Most ignition/accessory switches are only good for about 10 amps.. 20 amps maybe.  It's not a good idea to have a bunch of toggle switches running off of those contacts without a high current isolation relay.  You can easily fry the ignition switch.  Be careful and add up the number of amps that each circuit will be handling.  It can add up really fast, especially if you are using incandescent lamps. 

And earlier in this thread you mentioned the possibility of putting an inverter on the boat to run 115VAC items.  Don't do it.  Period.  Yes.. I have an inverter on my boat, and I have a bunch of 115VAC items running off of it.  But I have a "houseboat" with a dry cabin and I know what I am doing.  There are multiple layers of GFCI protection and the bonding/grounding has been done VERY carefully.  115VAC on a semi-open boat is a really good way to kill somebody.  Don't even put a small Honda-ish generator on there.
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
The `Blocker Build
Back to Top
fmgarner View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 10/08/2014
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 53
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmgarner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/22/2014 at 7:56pm

Sunblocker

Yours and anybody else opinion is truly welcome and I really appreciated it. I did look at aluminum as that was what I really wanted to use but 
I could not find any stringers online and Home Depot had aluminum but they were weak and thin so I knew they would not hold up. If you have a link for stringer please share. My stringer are metal on my pontoon

I was told that my boat motor can run about 10 amps and that is it. It was never my plan to run everything all at once plus I will have 2 batteries, 1 primary and 1 backup not connected. The 12volt inverter is not running anything and would only be used when we are ashore and camping on the boat and a completely seperate battery #3, I know how they eat the battery life quick as I have found this out the hard way when I had to sit all day while my solar cell charge my battery. That was when I'd started carrying 2 batteries and switch them each morning
when we are out camping.

The lights are under the boat deck and only used when near shore to hopefully light up the water so I can see rocks and such. Docking lights or spot lights only hinder your night vision and are only good for looking for land at a slow speed.

The lights I am putting on my boat are like dome lights and may be used while I am not under way to see on deck (fishing and such). My side lights were for decoration but if that is not legal then I will not put them on.

Anytime I am underway I only have Nav lights on, driving at night is not for me on a boat. I am never to far from where we are camping for the night.
We tried spending the night on the boat and we liked it alot better than setting up camp on land so we will just build a fire on land in front of the boat.

Oh yeah, I wish I had a house boat but I have no place to morn it.
One of the reasons I am build a type of slide out roof to cover the front for more room at night.

I got an ideal of what I am going to make with keeping in mind about weight. My boat weight limit is 3100 from what I had found out.
Frank
Back to Top
fmgarner View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 10/08/2014
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 53
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmgarner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/22/2014 at 8:08pm
Here are what I am planning for switches
Switches needed
1) AQUA LIGHTS under boat 
2) DOME LIGHTS 
3) FLOOD LIGHTS for docking
4) CHARGING BATTERIES SWITCH
5) 120VDC INVERTER
6) Fresh water pump
7) Floor lights
8) DASH LIGHTS can also hook thru NAV lights (open)
Frank
Back to Top
SunBlocker View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member
Avatar
EPWPTQ Award for March 2012

Joined: 11/12/2008
Location: Oconomowoc, WI
Status: Offline
Points: 1177
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SunBlocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/23/2014 at 1:09am
When you are running circuits off of the accessory or ignition contacts on the key switch they are running off of the starter battery.  Alternator output capability has nothing to do with it.  Sooo....  don't run your toggle switches off of the ignition switch.  You will ruin the switch.

I don't know what the #4 "Charging batteries switch" is for.

Looks like you have your heart set on hard-wiring your inverter into your boat.  Like I have already mentioned, that's a terrible and dangerous idea.  Also, anything but the tiniest inverter will draw a lot of current off of the 12VDC side (some, like mine, draw 100's of amps).  Probably not going to be able to run it directly off of a dash toggle switch (as the primary voltage source).  Some units (like mine) have a low current circuit that is only used to "enable" the unit.  Those circuits can be run off of a dash toggle no problem (since the inverter gets its power from larger cables that run directly to the battery bank).  

I strongly suggest that you run LED illumination wherever you can.  With only 10A available from your engine alternator for recharging the batteries....  you really don't want to be drawing a lot of current out of your banks.  It will take forever to recharge the systems if you only have the engine for replenishing.  Different story if you also have a shore power rig for running battery chargers off of 115VAC.  But once again, if you are going to introduce 115VAC to your boat you'd better know what you're doing since it can easily become a lethal combination.  Water and AC power don't mix.
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
The `Blocker Build
Back to Top
fishandtube View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie
Avatar

Joined: 11/27/2013
Location: singer, la
Status: Offline
Points: 54
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fishandtube Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/23/2014 at 6:49am
I must agree with SunBlocker,Don't try running all that stuff off of your ignition switch. if you are that worried about draining your batteries i would suggest that you use a battery disconnect switch and make turning it off the last thing you do before leaving the boat.If you have your heart set on using your ignition switch for this you will need several relays in your wiring system.

Do NOT hard wire a inverter in,it can kill easily. Make no mistake if you are wet in a wet environment 12 volts can hurt,not likely to kill but it makes it where it don't take long to look at. unless running an a/c unit or something like it,it's not worth the risk as most things are made in a 12v version.IMO    
If it ain;t broke, it ain;t ours!
Back to Top
fmgarner View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 10/08/2014
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 53
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmgarner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/23/2014 at 8:31am
Sunblocker

So are you suggesting that I run a second hard wire source to the helm so I am not going thru the key switch? The inverter is a small one 300watt and I was going to use a 3rd battery, the inverter came with a cigarette lighter plug and hard wire set and that is where I had came up with the hard wire idea, so no one had to hold the unit to plug something in. My son told me that they make and sell a switch to change one power to another and that is what #4 is.
My boat will be for pleasure and just fun things not really to live on. I know water and electric don't mix. The LED I will look into and
see what is out there, I thought they might get wet and ruin the circuit board where the other type is just clean the contacts and they work again.

Frank
Back to Top
SunBlocker View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member
Avatar
EPWPTQ Award for March 2012

Joined: 11/12/2008
Location: Oconomowoc, WI
Status: Offline
Points: 1177
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SunBlocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/23/2014 at 9:23am
The "ideal and preferred" setup is to use a second battery for accessories (stereo, lights, pumps, etc..) and ONLY use the starting battery for starting the engine.  That way, if you should happen to drain the second (house) battery accidentally you can still start the engine.

If you're not going to use that method, tap the voltage from the starter battery BEFORE the ignition switch contacts (usually the starter battery power wire that comes to the helm is decent size and can handle some current).  The point being... the actual switch contacts in the keyswitch aren't designed to handle a lot of current.  If your particular harness doesn't already have a nice large conductor coming from the starting battery to the helm then yes, you would have to run an additional wire.

A true 300W inverter can draw well over 30A from the 12VDC side at full load.... probably closer to 50A.  WAY too much current for the contacts in the keyswitch.. and WAY too much current for small wiring and the typical panel toggle switch.

If your son is talking about a "battery selector switch"... that's a BIG rotary switch with high power contacts.  Typically about 4" in diameter... not something that you are going to mount on a switch panel on your helm.

You might want to start by making a quick schematic/sketch of what you ultimately want to do and how you think you'll have it configured.  It's easier to make intelligent comments with that document in front of us.
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
The `Blocker Build
Back to Top
yadnom View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 08/17/2013
Location: florida
Status: Offline
Points: 104
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yadnom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/23/2014 at 10:35am
Sunblocker is only trying to help,,from his post n build ,I value what he says on this forum
Back to Top
yadnom View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 08/17/2013
Location: florida
Status: Offline
Points: 104
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yadnom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/23/2014 at 10:41am
I also once has the idea of an inverter installation to my build,,but chose not to,,,mine wasn't 400watt,,its 1500 lol,,,I read and try to learn from others mistakes,rather than have to learn the lessons the hard way,,,,,sunblocker,,,,beautiful toon you have

Edited by yadnom - 11/23/2014 at 11:02am
Back to Top
fmgarner View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 10/08/2014
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 53
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmgarner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/23/2014 at 12:15pm
I guess this is what I was thinking



Edited by fmgarner - 11/23/2014 at 12:28pm
Frank
Back to Top
SunBlocker View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member
Avatar
EPWPTQ Award for March 2012

Joined: 11/12/2008
Location: Oconomowoc, WI
Status: Offline
Points: 1177
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SunBlocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/23/2014 at 12:34pm
Originally posted by fmgarner fmgarner wrote:


I guess this is what I was thinking





Those are the battery switches I was talking about. Typically about 4" in diameter with ~4ga or larger cabling. Usually mounted by the batteries, virtually never mounted on the helm due to voltage loss over the long cabling runs.
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
The `Blocker Build
Back to Top
fmgarner View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 10/08/2014
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 53
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmgarner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/23/2014 at 12:36pm
so will this work for what I am wanting to do?



Edited by fmgarner - 11/23/2014 at 12:38pm
Frank
Back to Top
SunBlocker View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member
Avatar
EPWPTQ Award for March 2012

Joined: 11/12/2008
Location: Oconomowoc, WI
Status: Offline
Points: 1177
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SunBlocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/23/2014 at 12:39pm
I started with a 1500W inverter on the 'Blocker. Then it was 1800.... and now 2000. I sometimes play with the idea of going to 3000, but don't really need it.

Inverters on boats are nice to have, but like I mentioned earlier, you REALLY need to know what you're doing. It's akin to throwing a toaster into the bathtub.
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
The `Blocker Build
Back to Top
SunBlocker View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member
Avatar
EPWPTQ Award for March 2012

Joined: 11/12/2008
Location: Oconomowoc, WI
Status: Offline
Points: 1177
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SunBlocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/23/2014 at 12:46pm
Originally posted by fmgarner fmgarner wrote:


so will this work for what I am wanting to do?




No, not really. None of those diagrams are really correct for your application.

You want a configuration that has a "starter" battery ( for starting only) and a "house" battery for other loads.

For that configuration I personally don't like using the big manual switches. Too easy to screw up and leave them in the wrong position. I much prefer an automatic combiner relay (VSR) and that's what I use on my boats.

Edited by SunBlocker - 11/23/2014 at 12:47pm
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
The `Blocker Build
Back to Top
fmgarner View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 10/08/2014
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 53
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmgarner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/23/2014 at 1:08pm
I am cheap but not trying to hurt myself or my family, so how much for what you are talking about.
What I did in the past was just unhook batteries and change them out. This is what I am trying to change but I also want to find a way to charge the 3rd battery without swapping batteries around all the time.
I only carry the 2nd battery for backup and never had to use it as an emergency  after I had learned about making sure everything was turned off before getting off the boat for the night. My son has use the main battery for the inverter one night and drained the battery so that was why we had to sit all day while the sun charge the battery. This was when I got the 2nd battery. When my boat motor broke down I had used up both batteries on my trolling motor to get back to dock, I was glad to have 2 batteries. The water current was very strong so I had to use all 22lb thrust to push and took me over 2 hours to get there.
LOL what fun that was and on top of being a little upset that I had broke down on the water and no one offer to help me back to shore. I did call the marina but they wanted to charge me to come get me.
I know that I've help a few people on the lake  that were broke down. I alway thought that was the rule of the water as it is not like you are broke down on the side of the road where you can walk.
Frank
Back to Top
SunBlocker View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member
Avatar
EPWPTQ Award for March 2012

Joined: 11/12/2008
Location: Oconomowoc, WI
Status: Offline
Points: 1177
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SunBlocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/23/2014 at 1:45pm
Your alternator output is pretty low (10A) so you can get away with using a relatively small VSR like the Blue Sea 7601..... about $50. Not a big price difference from one of those large battery selector switches.... and much more useful.
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
The `Blocker Build
Back to Top
fmgarner View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 10/08/2014
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 53
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmgarner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/27/2014 at 7:24pm
So I got the price for my gas tank to be made $500, I did tell the guy I was looking around $250 but for me I was willing to go to $300.Not sure what I am going to do yet but I do not plan on paying $500 when I can buy alot bigger tank online for under $300. I think I might look into buying the bigger tank online and seeing how much to reduce the 7" depth to 5" with the indent I need to keep it under 5".
If anybody has a place I can get the picture I had post....please let me know.
Frank
Back to Top
fmgarner View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 10/08/2014
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 53
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmgarner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/06/2015 at 7:47pm
So I found another place to get my gas tank made
for $385 and should be made by first of the month
I went ahead and got it order so time to get things in high gear as March is coming to fast

carr enterprises custom metal fabrication
4780 96th St North
St. Petersburg, FL 33708
727-688-0645
Frank
Back to Top
fmgarner View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 10/08/2014
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 53
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmgarner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/31/2015 at 4:19pm
Well got my gas tank today from 
carr enterprises custom metal fabrication
4780 96th St North
St. Petersburg, FL 33708
727-688-0645

They did an awesome job and it fits just the way I planned it 
Frank
Back to Top
SunBlocker View Drop Down
Trusted Experienced Member
Trusted Experienced Member
Avatar
EPWPTQ Award for March 2012

Joined: 11/12/2008
Location: Oconomowoc, WI
Status: Offline
Points: 1177
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SunBlocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/31/2015 at 6:00pm
Are you going to spin it around so that you can get it full?  As shown, you'll probably end up with a lot of lost capacity due to a big air gap/bubble toward the bow.
1992 SunTracker Party Cruiser 41ft
18' Cobalt, 13' ElDebo E-Pontoon
-- Okauchee Lake, WI --
The `Blocker Build
Back to Top
fmgarner View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 10/08/2014
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 53
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmgarner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/31/2015 at 7:19pm
The way it is sitting was the way I had planned it. You really think I will get to much air from it sitting this way? I had planned on running the lines down the starboard tube. I wanted the fill spout on the starboard side for easy filling.
I will try turning it around and seeing what it looks like.

Frank
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1234>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.01
Copyright ©2001-2014 Web Wiz Ltd.